Ikes 91Z

iTrader: (1)

Backstory: just finished up an LS swap and completely replaced the whole front suspension, knowing I was going to have to tow it in to get a total alignment.

Problem: the alignment is so far off, when trying to even reverse the car straight back to get on a trailer, the front is rubbing so bad it won't move.

Doing a total front end alignment is not what I am wanting to do myself, just enough to get it to be able to move so I can have a shop do it. Any help on what I should do??

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Adjust it until it looks halfway right and doesn't rub.

I'd suggest starting by loosening the strut mount nuts and moving them both all the way to the rear, then move them left-right until the tires stand up more or less straight, maybe just a touch in at the top. Then center the steering wheel and lock the ignition to hold it there, and adjust the tie rods until the tires point straight ahead, maybe just the tiniest touch pointed inwards.

Then drive it to the alignment shop and have them set it up as follows:

Caster: L +4°, R +4½°
Camber: L -½°, R -1°
Toe: IN .030" - .050"

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES let them set it to "factory specs"!!!!! They are HORRIBLE.

Ikes 91Z

iTrader: (1)

The tie rod end and the strut are what is rubbing on the wheel. No matter where I move the strut mount or adjust the tie rods, they are both still rubbing. Any other thoughts?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what you've done to it then.

All of those parts move together with the wheel during the alignment process. No amount of "alignment" will fix whatever you did.

"LS swap", in and of itself, wouldn't cause any of that. Something went wrong with whatever you did to the "whole front suspension", whatever that might mean. Since it's dark out, I can't see your car well enough to spot the problem. Maybe in the morning.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

Im curious to know why these specs work. I have to get my car aligned this week too. Im just curious to know why the factory settings are "horrible". My car is lowered with the Pro Kit and has adjustable strut mounts.

Ikes 91Z

iTrader: (1)

Here is the best picture I have right now. If you need other pictures let me know.

BMR tubular K Member and A arms
Spohn steering re-build kit
Stock Spindles
Eibach Sportlines
BMR front sway bar
KYB Struts
Stock Rim/Tire size
Stock Calipers/rotors

These are the aftermarket suspension parts.

Do you see anything I should look at as to why they would be rubbing?

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

Better pictures are going to be needed. Also, I'm not sure about those wheels but formula wheels you will run into rubbing issues if you put the rear wheels on the front without shimming them. Did you put them on correctly?

Ikes 91Z

iTrader: (1)

Didn't know there might be a difference in the front/rear wheels. I will look at it tonight when I get home and see if that solves it.

I will try and get a few better pictures, with the wheel on where it is rubbing.

SlickTrackGod

The FAQ page has had suggested specs for alignment for years on these boards

Alignment specs I recommend vary based on tire choice

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The reason for a slight caster & camber split is so the car doesn't drift right on roads with a crown.

The specs I give are pretty much the same as some of the FAQ ones.

The reason the factory specs are horrible is because they give a very vague center feel ( much lower positive caster) and, worse, EAT the outer edge of tires off, because they call for positive camber. Just altogether wrong.

Doesn't too much matter what tires are on the car, within the normal-ish street kind of range.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Good baseline alignment specs for these cars are, and remain:

Caster: L +4°, R +4½°
Camber: L -½°, R -1°
Toe: IN .030" - .050"

Minor variations according to personal preference are of course completely OK. But I suggest trying them as-is first, and then tuning from there if desired.