G8T8A

I forgot to put a spacer in before trying to push the bushing out. Is tthis ruined or can it be salvaged? Thank you for any advice.

jpearcy1

iTrader: (1)

Na. Your fine, I did same thing on my truck. I took a chisel and knocked it back in line/straight. Put it back together and so far no issues.

G8T8A

I appreciate the quick reply. I'll quit kicking myself now. Meanwhile, the size of the ball joint press and the adapter cup sizes aren't working for me. I stopped at that point (thankfully) because the bushing couldn't move any further

jpearcy1

iTrader: (1)

I did my truck bushings with a ball joint press, saw saw, and a big adjustable c clamp.

I used the press to push the sleeve out of the center. Then used the saw saw to cut the rubber into 2 pieces. Once I cut the rubber I pulled them out and used the saw saw to cut the outer sleeve without damaging the control. Then used a chisel to push the center in and they will just fall out.

Pressing the new ones in I used a bolt as a spacer so the control arm wouldn't move. Used the c clamp along with some hits from a sledge hammer the news ones popped in.

When you get ready to put new bushings in stick them in the freezer before hand to help them go in easier.

jpearcy1

iTrader: (1)

If you do decide to cut the rubber with a saw saw get some wd40 to cool the blade and be prepared to smell like burnt rubber. It will also be a mess.

BrutalGTA

iTrader: (2)

I just burned mine out, or had them burned out I should say. Might help you out since heating up the bent on to straighten it out might be easier. Food for thought. What kind of bushings are you putting back in??

G8T8A

Thanks for the recipe for success!

G8T8A

How did you burn them out? Propane torch? I'm going with stock rubber replacements.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I use the drill bit trick to walk the rubber out. quick and easy.

WTR388

I tried the drill bit trick... Broke two 1/4 bits that way lol... Propane torch worked slowly... The acetylene torch was much more fun... Do it outside in a metal pan.
Then as mentioned, cut the outer casing in half and out they come. I believe I used a ball joint press as well to put the new ones in and used a socket as a spacer.
I've seen somewhere that someone welded in a piece of 1/8" flat stock to use as a stiffener and didn't need a spacer.

Billgluckman

If you're going with stock replacements you shouldn't have to burn them out, I wouldn't think. I just replaced my bushing with moogs. I pressed mine out with a vise.

Also a reply to your original post, hit the inside of the control arm with a punch/hammer to knock the lip back to the bushing shell surface. No big deal.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

A little lube goes a long way, along with letting the drill guide you.

Azrael91966669

you know you could just replace the lower control arms with the founders ones cant really beat the price honestly mine needed bushings and i figured there so cheap mine aswell just replace them https://www.foundersperformance.com/...s-panhard-bar/

https://www.foundersperformance.com/...maro-firebird/

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

I just did a set of these a couple weeks ago. I should have done a video. I burn the old rubber out with a plumbing torch with MAPP gas. It takes a few minutes but the rubber eventually just pops out. Then I use a Sawzall and cut about an inch out of the center of the bushing. This leaves you with about 1/2 inch of bushing on either side of the inside of the A arm. Then just fold in that leftover 1/2 inch of bushing with an air chisel. Or with a chisel and hammer. They just fall out in minutes.

As far as re-installation goes.... I never use those ball joint presses or even a shop press. I shrink my new bushings by putting them in the freezer the night before I'm ready to install them. Then warm up the A-arm with the torch again and the new ice cold bushing almost drops right in there. Sometimes a couple taps with a hammer and a large socket is needed to get it to fully seat.