cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Anyone on here tried the new Holley Terminator EFI system on their 3rd gen? I am in the process of getting all the components together for a switch from the Holley 770 Avenger carb that feeds my 406 to their new EFI system. I just purchased from Rock Auto a new tank, fuel sending kit, and Bosch fuel pump for a 1991 Camaro to make the switch since the tank does have some sort of sump that my stock 82 tank does not. Probably order the system in February after the other parts arrive. Would like to hear from someone who is using this system to find out how they like it and what issues did they have. I will keep you posted on my change over and try to let everyone know how well it works. I will even give you a total cost of parts involved to do this swap. I have been wanting fuel injection for some time now and have been waiting for improvements in both cost and technology. Holley's new system has a lot going for it and is totally upgradable which I find really good. I've been following the stories in the different mags on these systems to find the pro's and con's of each and as programming and electronics continue to evolve these systems really are more user friendly.

MyMint92

I thought the kit came with everything needed both for an inline pump and and in-tank pump. Sounded like a total cost involved kit when i called them for info.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

It is not a complete kit in that you get the fuel system, that is separate and you have several options to choose from. The article I just read in Car Craft did a comparison of 4 different systems from different manufacturers and they said even though external pump setups will work, they do have their problems and I figure these cars came with electric pumps installed in the tank that it would be better for over the long term. The cost of the fuel system from Holley was more than my buying all the parts new to do a stock type setup. I will have to wire up the fuel pump which is no big deal and I want to incorporate some sort of emergency shutoff in the event of an accident or loss of engine power. I bought all new stuff from Rockauto for 350.00 for this project which included a new fuel tank, sending unit and new Bosch fuel pump. I will need a regulator and wiring kit also, still looking at which one to get with a fuel return style regulator.

MyMint92

Oh yeah thats right. I got the kits mixed up that i was going to use. I think you should look into the FAST EZ-EFI 2.0. Follow this link. I called them and this is a kit ready to go includes everything you need. And the technology behind this thing is awesome and can support far more HP than the Holley system and can use with nitrous. Seems like a better option to go for maybe 200 bucks more that a set-up from holley would cost.

http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/ez-e...-pump-kithtml/

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

I looked at the Fast 2.0 system, the kit without the fuel system is something like 2300.00+ though it supports upwards of 1200hp, I will never have that kind of hp so the Holley Terminator system will do everything I need at a lower cost. Nothing against Fast2.0 System if I had a bigger bank account for it and was going to have the kind of hp it is capable of then I would buy it. The Holley system can be bought for 1900.00 and with the fuel system I will have about 2200.00 in my system. My 406 should be fine with this system, my hp is about 450-500 and to realistic, I probably never build a motor much more hp and the Holley system is upgradable should I need to. Good to hear some input from you and it gives some food for thought for sure. Cost is a consideration for me and I always try to get the best product that I can afford, not the cheapest system. I've been working on this car since 1984 making into what it is today.

MyMint92

Nice. Yeah i dont think the Holley is a bad system at all. I was going to go with FAST only because how much more i was going to get for my money. I like all of the different things that can be monitored on the touch screen. Like you said im sure your engine would be fine with the Holley. I though the Holley unit came in at just over 2 grand without the fuel system add another 350-400 on a quality system and you are just over 2400. I dont think i found it at the cheapest places either though.

-AO-

I have the Holley Avenger 700cfm TBI. I also have it controlling the timing using the stock-style distributor. That's one of the main advantages these kits have. The Avenger also has a built in AFPR. I really like it.

FYI, Holley's Dominator ECM can control 4L60E/80E transmissions.

-AO-

My system:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-550-400/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e3210/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2701/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d1020/overview/

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Looks like you have good setup and I hope that when I start this project this spring it will go without too many hiccups. I found the 550-405 tumble finish system for 1888.00. I am using a Summit all in one distributer which has a small cap design and a separate coil and a vacuum advance when I built this 406 several years ago. I use an air gap intake manifold with a 1/2" phenolic spacer to keep heat out of the carb. Like you said, there are things about both systems that are nice and both are upgradable and like you, I like the bigger screen that fast offers, maybe some where Holley will make an upgrade that will allow the use of a tablet.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

cc 82Z-28 have you moved forward on this at all?

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

As a matter of fact I have, I have a new fuel tank, sending unit, fuel pump, pressure regulator, and the Holley system is on the way, so it won't long before I get going on this. I'm really looking forward to getting this in, I'm not going to use it for the timing control at this point since I really like the Summit ready to run distributer. I also bought an a/c delete box so I can finish the removal of my a/c since I realize that I'm not going to use it for what I do with this car plus it will give me more room under the hood. I figure I will put the computer for the Holley system in the passenger compartment where the old system use to be. I will post up some pics and updates as I go and give my experience with the install and how well it works.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

I have one on the way myself. I am going with an inline pump though. I see lots of good reviews for the Holley stuff and the growth potential in it is huge.

The ac delete box frees up a ton of room and makes things like plug changes exponentially easier, I changed to one a few years ago also.

I'm pretty undecided on where things will be placed at this point, I'm sure it will all fall together once I have parts in my hands.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

I looked at the kit to do the install of an inline pump and by the time I bought it, I had more than what it cost to buy the new tank, sending unit and in-tank pump from Rock Auto and it goes without saying that an in-tank pump will have a long life due the fuel keeping that pump cool and other factors such as pushing the fuel instead of pulling it. I think with all the heat these cars have under the hood is reason enough for me to put the box inside if I can work it out. Like you, I'm sure it will come together once I get started on it. I also bought the Holley fuel pressure sending unit instead of using a mechanical gauge.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

I considered the in tank route, but as much as a I love my 3rd gen, if the right deal came along on something a little older more "classic" muscle car style. There is a good chance i will step that way so I went as universal as I could.

As for locating the computer, there should be room under the passenger dash, it surely will take a custom created bracket. For me as an added plus I still have a hole in the passenger kick panel where the factory computer harness used to be and it should be large enough to pass the connectors through. I intend to use the original steel fuel lines to move fuel to and from the tank, I will just re route them as needed under the hood once i find a home for the regulator. What are your thoughts on regulator placement? I also went with the pressure sending unit instead of a gauge.

Not that it matters now since mine is enroute, but if you dont mind sharing what kind of deal did you get on yours? I went through Summit and they price matched an ebay store that had a buy it now listing at $1940 for the hardcore gray kit, and another $400 for the basic inline kit, and about $110 on the sender.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

Any reason why you did not go EBL(port mod)? dynamicefi.com

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

I got the system in the tumble finish for 1869.00 shipped, I have about 350.00 for the new tank, fuel sending unit, Bosch fuel pump, and then 85.00 for the pressure sensor. I too am going to use my steel lines to get the fuel to the regulator, as for the regulator placement, I might look at fastening it to the heater box, not sure yet though, I will do what you are doing since my stock computer that the car had in it is no longer there and I will use the kick panel area that the original harness passed through at. I know lots of people say it is a lot of money but I think as these systems have developed and gotten more user friendly it really makes me want to go the EFI route and not having to use a laptop to set it up was what made it for me. I have waiting for these systems become easier to install and use.

-AO-

I mounted my Avenger box under the dash. It mounted perfectly to some holes that GM put in the dash frame. No drilling needed.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

I got started yesterday, its coming together pretty well.

The first step of course was to plop that sweet throttle body in place of the carb and admire it. Its a little shorter than my 4150 was which is great because i will have room to use a readily availble 3 inch tall element. My RPM Airgap required me to find a very specific height filter and drop base to make it all work.

I mounted the regulator to the heater box. You may want to do this before you put the box in permanently. I removed the fan resistor to place bolts through because self tapping screws didnt seem like a good idea at all, be careful where you go also. I found that there is a divider or something in there and I couldnt get at one of my holes, mine is an OE box fwiw. I used 2 1/4in bolts with lock washer a fender washer and then a washer and a nylon lock nut on the topside it feels solid.

ECU is mounted on a plate under the dash that is attached to a vertical tab near the corner, and one bolt through the vertical metal that runs behind the bottom plastic, there was actually a hole there already for me i just enlarged added a spacer and bolted through it.

One item that I'm not sure I like is that due to placement of connectors and such along the harness, I am going to be stuck with the relay and fuse for injectors and fuel either in the fender cavity or under the dash. I would have prefered them be out in the engine bay but it doesn't seem possible unless a hole is drilled elsewhere to run the harness.

Some pics, sorry the under dash ones are kinda crappy its hard to get a good shot up there.

http://s647.photobucket.com/user/d_m...ator%20Install

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for all the info, your pic won't let me view, says it is a private folder or something like that. Good tip on mounting the regulator. I thought it would seem like the logical spot for it as well but I will keep in mind what you have already found out. I also use an air gap type manifold and when I put the new hood on along with a drop base 14x3" air cleaner, I've got the room I need. I am still waiting for my system to show up, Holley was back ordered on some part but the now have it and will be shipping soon they say. Keep us updated and I will do the same when I start on mine. Shoot a pic of the regulator mounted on your if you can, thanks. Chet

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

What are you using for your fuel system? The factory in tank pump or did you do the in line pump setup?

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

Maybe this link instead...

http://s647.photobucket.com/user/d_m...ator%20Install

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

That worked, thanks for the pics, gives me some ideas.

-AO-

I'm running an Airtex E3210, which is just a cheap TPI replacement pump. My Avenger TBI only needs 21psi.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

CC i got my fuel line routing done, im interested in seeing yours once you are done. I can live with this but im not thrilled. It is due in part to not having anywhere to go with my after pump filter under the car. I realize this won't be an issue for you since you will be in tank.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

I see you used your factory fuel lines for both the supply and return, where did you mount the in line pump? Was your car originally a fuel injected car or was it carb like mine was? I am going to mount my regulator to the heater box as well but I am going to mount it on the flat spot between the resistor and blower, when I look at the backside of the box there is plenty of room and no chance of hitting anything and the Summit regulator came with nice chromed bracket that will perfectly there. I will run an inline filter but a smaller one probably a billet style that Summit sells that isn't to large in diameter. I hope your car will fire right up for you, and it will run good and smoothly. I bought a fuel pump relay kit from Classic Industries that wires in the pump circuit and makes the fuel pump work like an OE type system in that when you first go the start position it will fire the pump for about 3 seconds to prime the system and then when the engine fires it switches to power the fuel pump via the tach signal so if the engine loses power, the pump shuts down. Are you using the timing feature of this unit or do you plan to in the future? I am not going to use to start with, I just want to see how this runs just replacing the carb and leaving the timing feature out of the loop at this time.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

Well, CC i got her up and running yesterday with minimal issue that I believe was probably self inflicted. I'll try to explain.

When I ran through the wizard and got to the TPS autoset it was successful however once I looked at it in the monitor screen it read 15% or more in the idle position and when you pushed the pedal it would climb and then somewhere in the 80% range it flipped to 0. I could not get the car to idle down even with the idle screw backed out all the way. I then noticed that the IAC was locked at 30%, as such the engine was the majority of its air there. I had already set my idle speed at 800 in the handheld at this point.

Its important to note that anytime the TPS reads over 0% the IAC valve goes to a parked position and locks there, in this case 30%. I recall reading something about when the idle is over the hand held speed setting it causes the ECU to step out of idle mode. That being said they aren't kidding in the manual when they say ANY time you adjust the physical idle screw you must do a TPS autoset.

My fix was to crank up the idle setting in the hand held to something rediculous like 1200 rpm. I then opened the primary throttle blades more than enough to get there and did a TPS autoset, it read properly 0 at no throttle 100% with it mashed. Started the car turned the idle down to something reasonable to finish warming the engine, and began to work the idle speed down to where i wanted to be stopping a couple times to shut the engine down and reset the TPS. I settled for now at 775 rpm hot idle, my tps shows 0 and my IAC floats between 2 and 6 or so which is pretty much what the book says you want. My car is a 6 speed so I dont have the transmission drag to contend with in gear but that is what the IAC valves job is too. Remember on fuel injection you set a single idle speed in park or nuetral and the ECU will use fuel, timing (if applicable) and the IAC valve to maintain that number.


As for computer controlled timing, I'm not doing that yet but suspect that I will once my bank account recovers a little. Its really only a couple hundred bucks if you use stock replacement distributor from a late 80s early 90s TBI v8 and the fact that it can be done with standard issue factory replacement parts is something I like, and I have had mechanical linkage bind up and a couple vacuum chambers rupture on me, along with 2 of MSD 's fancy modules in the pro billet hei die while the car was sitting at idle.


As for your extra fuel pump relay system, there is really no need unless you have a high amp draw pump. The terminator ecu runs the pump for approx 5 sec to prime then it wont run again untill it sees tach signal. Once the engine dies the pump shuts off. You could add an inertia switch to kill the pump in heavy impact but everything else is already there.

So far I'm very impressed, the car starts instantly, idles rock solid, adn the throttle response is lightyears ahead of my carb. I have about 45 miles of mixed driving on it, i haven't leaned on it too hard yet but i suspect it will be just as good under heavy throttle. The only tuning adjustment I made so far was to fatten up the idle AFR slightly as it was doing alot of hunting and bouncing around. When I changed it the idle smoothed up instantly.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

This mornings cold start, it was probably about 45-50 in the garage and it sat around 14 hours

Its a facebook link for now, but will work for anyone. I'll get it added to my photobucket once I shoot one that isnt sideways, facebook allows it to be rotated i could not mak it work on photobucket.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...21185910962717

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

That's great to hear, yea I have been reading the manual front to back for the past couple of months now and I remember them saying that about the TPS autoset and if you make any change you have to do another reset to get "0". Let me ask you since the manual doesn't really cover it, when do you set your fuel pressure and what's the process, not to sound stupid, but this is a first for me with electric pumps and regulators and setting the proper pressure. I guess I could send that other relay back since the ECM does it for me, that I didn't realize and for the 65.00 I spent on it, I may as well send it back. When you said that you restarted the car after your TPS reset, did you move the screw and the idle rpm in hand module? I really appreciate all your input, I hope to have mine in over the next couple of weeks since I have a lot going on right now and it is next to impossible to work on it at this time. I know what you mean about the bank account, but I really think this is going to be a good investment in a number of ways as well just being able to jump in the car and hit the key and fire it right up. Again, thanks for the info.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

That sounds good, I like it!!

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

Not sure on the fuel pressure, as i havent actually set it yet. My regulator came out of the box at 38-39 psi and since I dont have a guage at the regulator and i cannot see the handheld while adjusting the regulator. I would imagine the regulator should have instructions but I really didnt look at them.

On the TPS, once I got it to actually read 0% I reset the handheld to my desired rpm and then adjusted the screw down to get where I wanted and then did the TPS autoset again. once I acheived the small 2-7% of IAC opening. It needs to idle with a small IAC percentage so that it can control your idle properly.

Holley has a forum on their website, and there is a fella there named Danny Cabral his posts are super informative.


Drove it more today, and pushed it a bit harder and found some stumbling and general unhappiness above 3500 rpm under load. I will be upping fuel pressure to the recommended 43psi.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

CC , I reset fuel pressure this weekend. I just had the car running with no vacuum on the regulator and adjusted to 43lbs. Its a simple jamnut over an adjustment screw.

That along with some tweaking to acceleration enrichment, and more pulls through the rpm range and load that was having issues has cleared it up significantly. At this point I'm just driving the car fairly normal operation for a while.

I am researching and will begin to collect the items to go ECU controlled timing soon. I plan to do it on factory parts aside from possibly a hotter coil.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

I picked up wiring and stuff to do the ECU controlled timing, the adapter from the holley harness to the GM small cap is pretty short, roughly 6 inches. This should be considered when routing your harness. I think mine will be ok, I'll know it a few days.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Good to see that things are working out, I just sat down to read your latest post, I have been away from my computer for the past couple of weeks so I am playing catch up. I will be curious to see how your experience with setting up the ECU to control timing will be, I've read a lot about some of the self inflicted problems others have had and since this is all new to me is why to start with, I'm just going to use the EFI with no other items being controlled by the ECU. I just changed the oil and filter to get the car running again and will probably tackle my conversion in about a month or so since I just want to start driving the car again, been a long winter, and then after changing out the heater box will get going on the EFI. Thanks for all your info and tips, keep up the good work.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

I totally understand your feelings about just wanting to get back on the road after that winter... It was definately a rough one.

Some more thoughts and info for you,

Honestly, the ECU controlled timing was super simple to configure. I found that some of the confusion lies in the fact that the handheld method is different than the laptop method. Bottom line is assuming handheld programmer as your method, configure the Terminator ECU to small cap GM, stab the distributor however you see fit in terms of aiming your connectors to where you need them. I then opted to disconnect the injector harness so the engine won't fire off, crank the car with a timing light on it to establish you are at least close. I started at about 12 degrees. Hook the injectors up and start the car. I let it come to temp, on the advanced tab in the handheld you can disable "idle spark" this is basically making idle timing a static number. Then turn the distributor to make your timing marks show what the handheld indicates 25deg for example. Lock it down. Re-enable the "idle spark' feature as it helps to smooth out the idle. One thing to remember, the timing as depicted by your balancer and timing tab by timing light is the one to believe above all else. I haven't played with the curve yet, I just left it on the suggested starting point.

I kept it simple parts wise and sourced a distributor and coil for a 90 camaro with the 350, this is a computer controlled small cap and seperated coil. I ordered the Holley adapter harness and grabbed the coil power/tach connecter and the coil to distributor jumper from the local parts yard while I was scrounging parts for another project, but the connectors are availible in the dorman help line if new is your thing. The extra room for plug wires and air cleaner clearance is great.

The hardest part was finding a spot to mount the coil which ended up on the drivers side just behind the throttle bracket, I'll get a pic of that and add to my album up there. I intend to create a more visually appealing bracket at some point but it is getting the job done.


I also found that my issues setting my TPS initially were simply a forewarning, my TPS failed and was also the cause of my stumbling and unhappiness when I would stick my foot in it. Holley tech agreed with my troubleshooting and sent out a new one, dropped it in and set correctly the first time and purrs like a kitten at 675 rpm idling, no small feat for an XE274...and when you need to go the thing absolutely roars instantly without delay. I am finding power and response I never knew this motor had.

I still haven't hooked my electric fan to it, but honestly its because I hate electrical work and needed a break from it. I may tackle that this weekend, i suspect it will be very simple to configure.

My next step is to get my hands on a laptop and see what other buttons there are to push.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Again, some great tips and advice, I really appreciate that for sure. Sounds like you are well on your way to figuring this out, I hope I can do as well when I start mine a little later. I changed the oil and filter and had it running for about 20 minutes, sure was nice to hear it run again. I see that Summit has a ready to run distributer for the small cap HEI in their catalog which I use their other style unit which is the vacuum advance model. Your making a good case for the swap over to ECU controlled timing and I like that your car runs great. I am soo looking forward to having the instant start without having to pump the accelerator to get the engine running and the heavy exhaust smell from the choke being closed and waiting for it to start opening so the car will run. I will keep you informed when I start mine and what if any problems or questions I may have for you now that you gotten through your install. I have a laptop but it operates with Windows 8.2 and I don't know if the software that Holley has will work with it or not. I'll cross that bridge when I am up and running with the new system, thanks for all your input and advice. Chet

-AO-

For my Avenger timing, I revved the engine to 3K and watched the handhelds timing. Then I put a light on the damper and revved the engine to 3k. I turned the dizzy until my damper showed the same advance that the handheld showed me.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

It's been a little while, how's the car running? Reading your post really makes me want to get going on mine soon. I need to use up the nearly full tank of gas since I do not want to siphon it into cans. I plan on working on changing out the heater box to get that out of the way.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

Its doing quite nicely, starts like any new car and driveability compared to any of the 3 different carbs this motor had seen is just in another dimension. No lag no bog no shudder, unless you do something totally stupid like say try to romp on it in 6th gear at 1000rpm.

I have started to lean up the cruise end of things slightly to see if I can safely improve economy at this point i would still call that a wash but it may be due to some spirited type driving. I need to double check my timing now that I have my laptop up and running according to Danny on the Holley forum the handheld gets it close but the laptop has additional adjustment to get it dead on at all RPMs. My laptop is also windows 8 and was not an issue for me.

Biggest issue I have right now is still having it die on me when I drop it out of gear and let it fall to idle on its own coming to a stop, and its not all the time. There are some additional adjustments in the laptop software with regard to regaining idle control and such, Danny also stated that it may need some fine tuning in the idle area being a manual trans car. I fought that with my carb a little too, there is just so little load for it to idle against and the lopey cam doesn't help either.

Weather hasn't been the greatest yet here in Iowa for cruising, I was going to take it to the local strip last week but ended up with other chores to do. Its only been about 4 years since I last ran it Maybe next weekend...

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Did you have to download some software from Holley to hook up your laptop? It's good to know that Windows 8 will work, I've never done anything like that but I am willing to try and to learn. I have been working on changing the box out, turns out that I didn't have to change any wiring, just change out blower resistor and everything works as it should except the high speed, I can live with that. Keep up the good work..

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

Yes there is a software download to put on the laptop. I didnt change any wiring out for the non ac conversion either, in fact i dont think i even changed the resistor out.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Do you have link for the software download? I would get on my laptop now so I would be ready should I need it. As for the resistor, using the a/c resistor allows the use of the plug in the harness, basically I just unplugged my harness used it on the heater box makes things a lot easier.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

http://holley.com/data/TechService/T....3%20Setup.zip

has the holley software and it contains the base calibrations so you can open one and look around

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the link..

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

I downloaded the software, has lots to work with for sure. I am hoping to get started this week after burning off some more fuel out of the tank so I won't have to siphon as much. We went from cold to hot to cold and lots of rain here. How's your car running, have you worked out the bugs that were plaguing you?
One more question, did you use push lock style fittings? I was thinking of the black Summit push-lock hose and fittings but some say not for fuel injection. All I have left to buy is the fittings and hose that I will need to hook everything up so I will be making a drive to Summit soon to get the last of the items needed I hope, famous last words LOL.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

Those are some famous last words, lol. I'm glad I dont live close enough to drive to summit.

The only issue I have left is the occasional die out rolling to a stop light. Its going lean causing it to die so I'm working on the fuel tuning for that area. Also tweaking the timing around a little yet.

As for the pushlock stuff fittings and hose, if its anything like the Earls branded stuff it takes an act of god for it to come apart. The Earls pushlock hose is rated for 250 PSI, you are going to be at 43psi. I was a little skeptical myself so I took a chunk and shoved it onto a fitting and then tried to pull it off... I'm a big guy and pulled so hard I broke the braid in the hose and then grabbed it with a vice grip and proceeded to rip the hose in half. I had to cut the leftover piece off the barb with an exacto knife.

That being said its super easy to work with, just make sure before you push a hose home its the length you want it to be.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Yea, I told my wife that's a good thing I'm not any closer to Summit than I am cause I would want to work part time there and I would never bring a paycheck home and would owe them money!! I like going to their retail store in Tallmadge and there is one car show that is put on by NEOCC that is in September and is all Camaros of every year. They do a lot of nice shows throughout the season. Going back to one of your pics concerning the plate you mounted ECU to, I'm still trying to figure put how you have that mounted under the dash. I've been looking at mine and haven't quite figured my plan of attack. I have contemplated making a plate and mounting on the drivers side where the washer bottle used to be since the car is not a daily driver and it would simplify things some, just not sure though. I see they make hard line tube adapters for the places that I will use hose and fittings and that's good. Take care..

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

I can try to get you a better picture of the ecu mounting. I gotta take the underdash panel down to plug my usb cord back in anyway. It is mounted vertically with the plugs facing the floor basically right behind the dash. There is a fairly heavy horizontal brace running across the car behind the dash platic at the bottom which is what the plate is bolted to. If you remove the under dash panel and the lower face of the dash below the map pocket it should make sense.

The top end of the plate is not attached to anything.

I didnt try the hardline to AN adapters but I imagine they will work nicely. I just used my brake flare tool to put a bubble on the end of the lines where I needed to.

The drivers side front corner was my other potential mounting area also, but I do drive my car sometimes even when wet weather is looming so I stuck with putting it inside. Layout your harness to make sure whatever position you choose will work as it can be somewhat limiting.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

Thanks again for some more good points. I was laying the harness out under the hood if I were to mount it on the drivers side, looks like it should be ok. I would run the controller cable through the firewall right below the heater box so the controller would be inside.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

hey cc thought i would give you an update. I have done some tweaking and alot of driving. I certainly believe there is more potential here than i can unleash with my limited knowledge and am considering finding a place that is familiar with tuning the holley efi systems. However its not really necessary, I just want all I can have. The system rolls with the punches and works very well. I ran the last leg of the Hot Rod Power Tour from the Quad Cities to the Wisconsin Dells yesterday and the system performed flawlessly. All told from first fuel up to refilling to park it with a full tank in the garage was 419 miles and probably close to 4 hrs idling in bumper to bumper traffic easing the car ahead, a couple tire hops and spirited driving because well why not. Route was a mix of 2 and 4 lane roads in hill country and at times slightly abusing the speed limit. My math says I still manages a shade over 20 mpg, not too shabby in my opinion considering the 4.10 rear and the xe274 cam.

I forgot to get that pic of ecu mounting for you, if you still need it let me know its only a couple screws.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

That's awesome!! Good to hear it is going well for you. I know what you mean about finding someone who can really dial it in, there a couple of really good tuners here in Northern Ohio that are great with these new systems and when I get up and running, I will keep them in mind. I am bout a week out on getting started on mine finally. My wife's having a garage sale this week so this week is out so I am hoping to get going on it next week. I went to Summit this week and bought some Russell fittings and some black braided hose so I can fuel to the system using my stock hard lines starting at about the firewall, bought some hard line adapters for steel line and all I need to do is flare the lines with a 37 degree flare. I am really getting antsy to get going. I will let you know how my install goes and the initial startup. As for the ECM, I am mounting under the hood on the driverside where the washer bottle used to be so I have easy access to USB port in the future and I will run the harness along the frame rail, it is plenty long and then run hand held into the car. I will post up some pics when I get started and when finished.