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Man, you guys are running AC still and I'm reaching for my jacket, lol.
Its still 90+ over here.
Originally Posted by Fast355
I did not have a choice, I broke the low pressure switch on the back of the compressor resealing a leaky valve cover. While it was apart I decided to see if I could make the R134a work acceptably rather than going back to R152a.
I wonder if it is actually cooling better or just a product of cooler ambient temp.
I wonder if it is actually cooling better or just a product of cooler ambient temp.
When it was still 95*F it was very humid and still cooling well. High humidity 40%+ seems to hurt the cooling as badly if not worse as the over 100*F temps. Its 76*F outside now and I have not even been using the A/C.
When it was still 95*F it was very humid and still cooling well. High humidity 40%+ seems to hurt the cooling as badly if not worse as the over 100*F temps. Its 76*F outside now and I have not even been using the A/C.
I plan on trying to run mine once a week through the winter to keep everything lubed. Probe to leaks if not correct?
Little minor update here before Thanksgiving. I took the Camaro on a 150 mile trip the other day and logged the whole way. Conditions were nice and cool and had it cruising in highway mode often. I did however notice some knock while in highway mode and on a hill/climb or whenever load increased until it exited highway mode.
Paging RBob or anyone, How can I correct this? Am I correct in assuming that there is too much SA in lean cruise. I looked at the table and show 1 degree across the board. I also noticed that as soon as it exited lean cruise it would stop knocking. AFR in lean cruise is commanded at 16 on my tables
I would richen it up slightly to about 15.5 before I retarded the timing. You can also taper down the highway mode air/fuel ratio to keep it responsive under load before it kicks out. I had my highway mode set to stay in down to 100 kpa and had the timing and afr tables set accordingly. I think I was commanding 13.5:1 @ 100 kpa and had a leanout curve down to 16.5 @ 30 kpa. Make it work like a power valve or metering rod on a carb!
I would richen it up slightly to about 15.5 before I retarded the timing. You can also taper down the highway mode air/fuel ratio to keep it responsive under load before it kicks out. I had my highway mode set to stay in down to 100 kpa and had the timing and afr tables set accordingly. I think I was commanding 13.5:1 @ 100 kpa and had a leanout curve down to 16.5 @ 30 kpa. Make it work like a power valve or metering rod on a carb!
If my afr table fails, remove the highway mode spark advance.
I see. I'll copy the table exactly as you have yours and see how it works out. I was under the impression that the SA table for highway mode works where 9.84 is no correction.
I see. I'll copy the table exactly as you have yours and see how it works out. I was under the impression that the SA table for highway mode works where 9.84 is no correction.
Fairly certain highway mode on the EBL is WYSIWYG aka What You See Is What You Get. Value of 0 would be no change and any positive number would add.
Fairly certain highway mode on the EBL is WYSIWYG aka What You See Is What You Get. Value of 0 would be no change and any positive number would add.
Just checking in here. No new progress made on the car. Just been driving it. Just switched to synthetic oil at the 6k mark. Runs nice. Pig rich in the cold morning makes it miss a little until warm but not that big of a deal.
Focusing on the front end rebuild now. Thread for that below if Fast or anyone else wants to chime in. Also still need to address summer cooling, fuel pump whine, throttle bracket.
Full front end rebuild complete. Everything except the control arms themselves is brand new. New steering linkage, springs, struts, bushings etc. Just got it aligned. Rides like a Cadillac, turns MUCH better with IROC springs.
Now that summer is coming going into chasing some old issues. Rear suspension will be done this week along with changing the thermostat to address a summer only overheating issue as per Fast355 and RBobs recommendation.
Also going to address the ACDelco TPI fuel pump sounding like a JET in anything above 70° weather and failing. Replaced it last April right before my engine swap. Did some research on here and ordered a new Bosch unit that comes highly recommended. Apparently the ACDelco pump sounding like a jet and eventually going out is very common. Hope it fixes it.
"Also going to address the ACDelco TPI fuel pump sounding like a JET in anything above 70° weather and failing. Replaced it last April right before my engine swap. Did some research on here and ordered a new Bosch unit that comes highly recommended. Apparently the ACDelco pump sounding like a jet and eventually going out is very common. Hope it fixes it."
OK...quite tool is not working for me at the moment. Anyway, I look forward to hearing your review of this pump.
"Also going to address the ACDelco TPI fuel pump sounding like a JET in anything above 70° weather and failing. Replaced it last April right before my engine swap. Did some research on here and ordered a new Bosch unit that comes highly recommended. Apparently the ACDelco pump sounding like a jet and eventually going out is very common. Hope it fixes it."
OK...quite tool is not working for me at the moment. Anyway, I look forward to hearing your review of this pump.
I'm just hoping I have the same results as the thread below
Rebuilt the entire rear suspension yesterday. New everything. Rides A LOT better now that both ends are new. Although something is slightly off with the front end, will recheck soon.
Reference the ACDelco TPI pump sounding like a jet howling, I replaced it yesterday with a Bosch pump. It is quiet as can be and per the fuel pressure gauge it puts out 16PSI @ idle.
Also replaced the thermostat as per recommendations from RBob and Fast355 earlier in the thread. We will see if the temperature issue corrects itself.
Read though your whole thread 2 times. Have a 1991 camaro lo3 that's having trouble passing emissions. Has 211k miles. Your thread is making me want to do the same thing. Any more updates?
Read though your whole thread 2 times. Have a 1991 camaro lo3 that's having trouble passing emissions. Has 211k miles. Your thread is making me want to do the same thing. Any more updates?
UPDATE:
Front end clunk after rebuild has been addressed. Ended up being two loose sway bar links. Completely gone now. Rides smooth but not like a new car.
Fuel Pump howl is corrected with the Bosch pump. Several 85+ days and no howl
Overheating issue appears corrected however we've yet to have the 95+ days for a true test.
So far so good! Starts every time I tell it to and runs like a champ! Motor itself is solid!
Recommend you do the swap. Its a good engine, solid power, and decent economy when paired with EBL lean cruise. Let me know if you have any questions. Myself or RFMaster can answer.
This is the reason I tried to keep a log in this thread of everything done. That way I know what I did and others can use as a reference!
Read though your whole thread 2 times. Have a 1991 camaro lo3 that's having trouble passing emissions. Has 211k miles. Your thread is making me want to do the same thing. Any more updates?
Let me start with a simple fact that L30/L31 motors are truck motors which were never installed in the US spec passenger cars. Depending on your local smog regulations the L30/31 swap may or may not be legal. You have to check with local 'smog stasi' - their technical expert to determine positively what is allowed under existing engine swap and equipment rules. In some locations as long as all emission related equipment is present, connected and functioning this swap might be legal (as long as tail pipe levels are within spec). L30/31 will require an externally plumbed EGR pipe and vortec specific intake manifold to retain EGR functionality. That and all other equipment (AIR, Evap, CAT, etc) must be in good working order. So before even contemplating this swap you may want to research this a bit. Sorry, but there is no clear or definitive answer.
I can actually register the car as collector car this year and get collectors car insurance which is smog exempt so I can pretty much do what I want at this point. Do you have any regrets not going with the L31 at this point?
Personally I would not go the l30 route due to the heads being more related to the tbi swirl port heads than the vortec l31 heads. The head flow numbers I have never seen for the l30's but I cant imagine they come anywhere close to the l31's when they have the "ski jump" in the port.
No disrespect intended OP.
*EDIT*
I found the head flow data, not as bad as I thought:
I don't have flow numbers, but just a quick look at the HP improvement of the "Vortec" treatment on the 305 and 350 shows the effect was just as positive for both.
Personally I would not go the l30 route due to the heads being more related to the tbi swirl port heads than the vortec l31 heads. The head flow numbers I have never seen for the l30's but I cant imagine they come anywhere close to the l31's when they have the "ski jump" in the port.
No disrespect intended OP.
*EDIT*
I found the head flow data, not as bad as I thought:
The Vortec 305 heads flow very well for what they are. The MPFI Marine Vortec 305 in NET rated at 250 HP and 308 TQ using a 196/206@ .050 cam cut on a 109* LSA. Net rating is with the P/S pump, water pump, alternator, marine wet exhaust, and restrictive flame arrestor installed. If you set it up on a dyno with headers, freer flowing intake setup, and no accessories it would make more like 290 HP by gross/dyno magazine numbers.
Jegs still has the L30 for just under $1700 free shipping and the L31 just over $2000 free shipping. Not sure the extra 25hp is worth $300.
I'm still a couple years out on having time/funding to start a project like this. Just trying to build a plan.
I gotta say to the OP, he sounded lost at the beginning of the thread but then sounds like an expert at the end. Very impressed by how much he learned.
Having driven vehicles with the L30 and L31 I can tell you theres a lot of difference. Hooking to a hay trailer drug the L30 powered truck down big time while the L31 would pull it like no ones business. The 25 HP claimed isn't a real indicator IMO. The torque is daylight and dark. Honestly I doubt much power difference in an L98 cammed Lb9 "speed density TPI engine" and the L30. The L30 heads don't really look a lot like the L31 heads from what ive seen.Now im sure the L30 engine is a nice lil powerplant and im not knocking it but.. I would spend the extra $300 and get the 350 L31.
Jegs still has the L30 for just under $1700 free shipping and the L31 just over $2000 free shipping.
Seems like a good deal for a new engine.
Originally Posted by Catalytic
I gotta say to the OP, he sounded lost at the beginning of the thread but then sounds like an expert at the end. Very impressed by how much he learned.
I can actually register the car as collector car this year and get collectors car insurance which is smog exempt so I can pretty much do what I want at this point. Do you have any regrets not going with the L31 at this point?
None. The L30 is an awesome motor. It has a whole hell of a lot of torque and HP when tuned properly.
Originally Posted by DynoDave43
I don't have flow numbers, but just a quick look at the HP improvement of the "Vortec" treatment on the 305 and 350 shows the effect was just as positive for both.
I think the OP indicated at the time of purchase that he got a deal on the L30, which was part of the decision process.
It was a HUGE gain over the LO3. The L30 just blows it out of the water.
Originally Posted by Fast355
The Vortec 305 heads flow very well for what they are. The MPFI Marine Vortec 305 in NET rated at 250 HP and 308 TQ using a 196/206@ .050 cam cut on a 109* LSA. Net rating is with the P/S pump, water pump, alternator, marine wet exhaust, and restrictive flame arrestor installed. If you set it up on a dyno with headers, freer flowing intake setup, and no accessories it would make more like 290 HP by gross/dyno magazine numbers.
Jegs still has the L30 for just under $1700 free shipping and the L31 just over $2000 free shipping. Not sure the extra 25hp is worth $300.
I'm still a couple years out on having time/funding to start a project like this. Just trying to build a plan.
I gotta say to the OP, he sounded lost at the beginning of the thread but then sounds like an expert at the end. Very impressed by how much he learned.
I couldn't justify the extra cost for the small gain either. Adding an extra 300 to the already expensive swap is huge. I ended up around 3500-4000 all said and done.
I was very lost indeed. But RFMaster and Fast355 helped me out a bunch!
Originally Posted by dmccain
Having driven vehicles with the L30 and L31 I can tell you theres a lot of difference. Hooking to a hay trailer drug the L30 powered truck down big time while the L31 would pull it like no ones business. The 25 HP claimed isn't a real indicator IMO. The torque is daylight and dark. Honestly I doubt much power difference in an L98 cammed Lb9 "speed density TPI engine" and the L30. The L30 heads don't really look a lot like the L31 heads from what ive seen.Now im sure the L31 engine is a nice lil powerplant and im not knocking it but.. I would spend the extra $300 and get the 350 L31.
I think if you plan to tow then yes get the L31 but that's a different application then what I needed.
Small Update here:
The car is running great! Although late last week the car developed a bad miss that got progressively worse throughout the course of the day. It was jerking on the freeway. Turns out it was a bad dist cap and rotor. It was the same one that was on the LO3. I forgot to swap it! New cap and rotor and the car is back to running strong.
Fast355, I developed what sounds like the flywheel hitting something only when I put it in reverse and give it a brief tap of the throttle. Almost sounds like the flywheel tapping sheet metal. Think I have a broken trans mount, could that cause it?
Need some assistance in diagnosing this miss under load I have developed. It seems that when the vehicle gets up to temp it will start jerking under load such as when the TCC locks up. It will also stumble coming off the line. I thought ignition issue so I checked the cap, rotor, and wires and all looked good. The motor only has about 14k miles on it to the plugs are relatively new.
In my data log below it is happening badly at 5:53 mark. I do see the O2 go lean. I should add that this issue is also present at idle. You can hear it stumble and what sounds like an injector clicking.
Need some assistance in diagnosing this miss under load I have developed. It seems that when the vehicle gets up to temp it will start jerking under load such as when the TCC locks up. It will also stumble coming off the line. I thought ignition issue so I checked the cap, rotor, and wires and all looked good. The motor only has about 14k miles on it to the plugs are relatively new.
In my data log below it is happening badly at 5:53 mark. I do see the O2 go lean. I should add that this issue is also present at idle. You can hear it stumble and what sounds like an injector clicking.
I stumbled across a used L30 today, and was thinking back on this thread. Once I started reading, I couldn't stop!
It really is a great engine. I daily drive it now. Very torquey and plenty of power for what I wanted. Does well in all conditions, plenty of horse when I want to pass and it's fun when I want to punch it. Night and day compared to the LO3 that was in there.
10-14-2014, 01:28 PM
