CamaroChase

First post, so I apologize for any stupid questions.
I have a stock 305 TBI and TH700R4 in my '89 RS. Both are in excellent shape. I want more low end power, but I do not have the cash for an engine swap (even a "cheap" one). I want to be able to work on the project in "pieces" so that I can work at the rate that I can afford, not as one huge investment. I was wondering if the below setup may help me.

-Open Air Element
Still looking at different options, but I've heard that this gives better throttle response. Also, what is the best kit to buy to make sure I fit stock hood clearance and don't touch any wires?

-Shift Kit
I want some firmer shifts. Again, haven't decided on a brand, and am open to any suggestions. Also, my car seems to shift at pretty low RPMs, usually in the 2500-3000 range (I'm used to driving a 5 speed, so maybe it's just me). Where should it be shifting, and could I do anything to allow it to rev up a little higher before shifting?

-Headers/Exhaust
I recently saw a 91 RS with an SLP Loudmouth 2 exhaust, and I liked the sound. I would like to install this on my RS, but I know that without upgrading headers that it will give no power increase due to bottle-necking\. I saw some Hedman shorty headers for like $150, would these maybe do the trick?

-Rear End
Basically, I want to swap the 2.73 to a 3.42 ratio.


In closing, I have seen many other mods for the 305 TBI, things like new TBI units, new fuel pumps, pressure regulators, LT1 cam, new heads etc. If you have done any of these, did they help? I'm not sure if I'd like to go this far with my 305, but I'll gladly learn from your experience.
Any other advice is much appreciated, Thanks.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I can tell you that the gear ratio change from 2.73 to 3.42 and adding a L.S.D. aka = Posi Unit. will wake the car up dramatically.

You can always try to find a used rear end to install to get a 3.42 ratio but are rolling the dice on the L.S.D. working the way it should. It could have a worn out cone or one that on its way out in the Auburn stock unit that is non rebuildable.
As far as cost, It fluctuates some were between $200.00 to $ 500.00 ballpark
I'm not trying to steer you away from this option because it may be the one for you considering
the next two are in the $1,500.00 and $2,500.00 +++ range.

You can rebuild the 10 bolt with the ratio you want using the strongest parts you can including the new L.S.D. = $$$

Or if you’re planning on being very hard on the differential with sticky track tires creating a hard hook and launch you will need either the 9" rear or a 12 Bolt. = $$$$

Ron U.S.M.C.

As far as the transmission is concerned I would start with a Corvette servo .

It will firm up the shifts and is part of any decent shift kit, but "you" can do it first for around $25.00

Where to buy = https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/prod...&cat=52&page=1

Installation Link = http://sethirdgen.org/servo.htm

Schurkey

Complete waste of money, if not an actual downgrade in cold weather.

I keep asking for proof that there's an ACTUAL restriction in the stock system, (instead of an imagined restriction) no-one wants to connect a vacuum gauge and run the engine WFO to show me one way or the other that the stock system actually hurts performance.

Low-rpm shifting improves fuel economy. Are you saying that the FULL-THROTTLE shifting is at ~3000 RPM? If so, something is wrong.

Adjust the TV valve cable. If that doesn't help, look into a damaged TV valve or linkage.

I would be looking for a shift improvement kit from Transgo. Don't expect that to raise your shift points, though.

MAYBE you want to look into a governor recalibration kit from B&M. Start with the TV cable and valve first, though.


Can't help you there.

...and add positraction.

J-money

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-47622/overview/

This is the open element I have on my RS currently. It would probably work alot better with a cowl hood. But it clears the hood and the throttle cable without a spacer, but I used a flat base instead of the drop base it comes with. the flat base was still close to the coil wires so i cut a bit of the metal off.

J-money

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66804/overview/

This was the first open element I had. I didnt like it, was to short and I had to use a spacer ring on top of the throttle body.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301256473156?afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
I also used this settup exept a cheap ebay brand for awhile. It probly pulled in more "cool" air than the open element but I hated how this looked so i went back to open element.

Hope this helps some.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

I would trash every piece of that restrictive exhaust. Get headers, Y-pipe and run 3in exhaust with hi-flo converter or no converter at all if u can get away with it. Then the 342 gear and posi-trac and it will drastically wake up. Like before mentioned after that you will hafta start spending more $ and at that point I would be thinking 350 cubic inches before I opened up a 305

Ron U.S.M.C.

Schurkey has a good point about the stock intake and the lack of info. concerning its restriction.

I cant remember seeing any actual data.

As far as the open element is concerned ,I use one to take advantage of a cowl hood I have. Its not totally sealed to the hood but a good part is contained in the hoods opening when its closed. A top filter helps.

I like the way my bay looks when I open the hood .

zenish

Find a v6 Camaro with a 3.42 rear end.it will bolt in and its just as strong as the v8 rear ends.same other than the ratio.you will lose a few mpg but much quicker.

J-money

I also like how my open element looks. But I dont have a cowl hood yet unfortunately.
I like the look of these from spectre but I dont think they fit under the stock hood or interfere with the throttle cable.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-728/overview/

I would think something like this would be a decent step above the stock single snorkel. If nothing else it looks much better.

uk3gen

Hi, trans wise why not do a 5 or 6 speed trans swap with junkyard stuff? Now That'll improve shifts, know u said u want work piece at a time n u can, slowly collect what u need wait for 50% off weekends at ur local breaker for the big stuff, clean, re curb n paint stuff while u get rest, same goes for rear end, 8.8 explorer axles are cheap, prep it n what u need n it could be on in a wkend, being short of cash just improves ur bargaining skills n makes u get creative, ur own times free