Mastiff

I'm trying to decide what line to buy for my (low pressure) TBI runs. I'd like to avoid getting some generic rubber stuff that may dissolve with the crappy pump gas around here. Any recommendations? I need to be able to hose clamp it to a run of steel line, which may rule out some options. It seems stuff is either for carb only or meant to take 3000 psi.

shugart111

if the line can hold 3000 psi it sure as hell can hold 13. why not just get that one?

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

There's some good fuel line info. here.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...ce-fuel-hoses/

Mastiff

I stumbled across that article already. Good info, but I'm still not sure what to buy at Summit that doesn't require fancy AN connections and will fit over a standard hard line nipple with a hose clamp.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

This is gonna sound odd, but go to http://www.lmctruck.com

Select 88-98 fullsize Chevy/GMC trucks and look for the TBI fuel lines(88-94). They should be long enough you can attach one side to your TBI using the factory connections, and cut the other connector off and clamp them to your steel line. The rubber lines on my old 94 were 12-18" long or more. And the steel lines on those trucks were the same 3/8" and 5/16" lines our thirdgens use.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

What's wrong with the Factory hard lines?

Schurkey

^^^Winner.

Installing excessive amounts of hose where double-wall seamless steel or APPROVED plastic tubing will suffice is crazy.

Mastiff

I never said I was doing long runs. I have a few small runs and don't know what hose to get. Store bought stuff around here has failed with the pump gas in one season. Then I bought push-lok (or some name like that) from Summit and come to find out it's not actually approved for gasoline.

I'd like to go with PTFE, but not sure if it's compatible with a hose barb and clamp type arrangement.

Thanks for the ideas.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

You still never said what's up with your factory fuel lines?

Stainless steel braided lines is what I would do. There are serveral members here who run it from the tank to the motor. My only issue is that under the car, it would be subject to a lot of potential damage. Just something to be aware of.

Schurkey

This stuff? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...85-b/overview/
Of course, Aeroquip goes into more detail when describing their competing product, AQP Socketless:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcn0620/warnings/
Absolutely not compatible with typical barb-and-clamp. While the brass sealing ferrules do have barbs, they're very tiny; and the hose end would clamp the ferrule very tightly--enough to crush the ferrule to the hose.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I run SSbraided lines from my factory hardlines up to my regulator and from there to the carb. Zero issues in 7 years.

Mastiff

Schurkey, yes, that stuff. It's actually been on for 2-3 years with no issues, but I got nervous as soon as someone pointed out the "not for fuel" disclaimer.

SS braided is just the outside protection, right? They can put that on anything. What kind/brand did you use? Also, how did you make the connections from the hard lines to the hose? Clamps, or did you crimp AN fittings to the steel?

Ozz, this is a carb to TBI conversion, so there are no existing lines to use exactly. I'm reusing the hard lines, but need new flex.

Schurkey

Doesn't do him much good to suggest "stainless steel braided lines" when you don't provide a part number or a link. Do you mean stainless steel braid over rubber, or stainless steel braid over Teflon, or something else entirely.

For the record, I ripped out ~20 feet of "stainless steel braid over rubber" fuel hose from my boat, and replaced it with two 9-inch hose sections (about 1 foot of hose assembly including the metal ends) of stainless steel braid over Teflon liner, and perhaps eighteen feet of steel tubing.

But, yeah, using "real" hose involves using "real" hose ends and "real" adapters; and that costs more than a clamp over a barbed fitting. Be aware that MOST "AN" fittings are not genuine and will not meet military specs. What is sold as "AN" is in fact "JIC", it's less-strenuous specs are suitable for ground vehicles but not aircraft. What the AN and the JIC have in common is the 37 degree flare, rather than the 45 degree flare of other plumbing hardware.

First Guess: Not a problem (yet). When you start smelling fuel vapor, but you don't see any leaks...that's the time to change the hose.
Carbureted vehicle, adding TBI? I bet you have 5/16 or 3/8 supply, and 1/4" return tubes. The 1/4" return tube could be an issue--I think TBI vehicles have 3/8 supply, 5/16 return--but I haven't verified that.

At any rate, yeah, best practice is two tube-to-JIC fittings at about ten dollars each; Teflon liner hose and four hose ends to make two hose assemblies, and--I think--two pipe thread to JIC fittings for the TBI unit. You might be able to get two male pipe thread hose ends, eliminating the need for the pipe-thread-to-JIC adapters.

I would make the hoses about a foot long, each, and add steel tubing as required to the original tubing (standard 45 degree double flares, plus an inverted flare union) to extend the original tubing close to the TBI unit. Steel tubing is cheaper and more durable than hose, and you'd only need about a foot of hose to allow for engine shake.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I cut the hose nipples off the end of the hardlines and I'm using the AN hard tube-AN crimps.

For the SS lines, I just went with the Summit brand SS lines and Earls fittings.