gregl316

iTrader: (1)

Well my car is eating plugs and seriously overfueling. Here is the backround.
350 cid 330hp vortec crate motor. It was running fine last year prior to putting it in storage.
It has a VAFPR
46mm 68# injectors TBI
I'm running WOT fuel pressure at 26#'s

I was thinking MAP sensor so I installed a new one but it is still the same

I just hate putting plugs in just to get 100 miles and do it again.

Let me know what everyone thinks

Schurkey

Fowled plugs? Maybe that turkey is just chicken about running. You'd better duck when you get under the hood. Last time I had that problem, I was up with the roosters trying to fix it.


Oh, FOULED plugs. That's a different story. Are you sure they're fuel-fouled? Maybe you're getting oil past broken rings; or through the PCV system. Any chance the oil level is too high?

If it really is fuel that's fouling the plugs, what heat range are they? Do you have a failing ignition coil or defective cap/rotor/plug wires leading to poor spark at the plugs?

What short- and long-term fuel trim numbers does your scan-tool show? What is the O2 sensor voltage?

Are you SURE of your fuel pressure since this problem started?

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

I don't have a scan tool. But I am sure they it is fuel. The fuel pressure has remained constant.

I checked the coil and it checked fine
I had the modulator checked out and they say it is good too
It is an aftermarket dist. (MSD) so I don't know how to check th p-u

I check the spark and it seem week to me.

Schurkey

You have a modified vehicle, and you don't own a proper scan tool???
You're sure it's fuel, then you tell us it has a weak spark???

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

Who do you think your talking to. If you have no advice then leave your posts to yourself. I am asking questions because I need help not someone making fun of me. I have built this car from the ground up with the help of this form. Until now I have not been ridiculed. I have only received useful information and have been treated real good regardless to how stupid the question seemed to the person at the time.
I have been a member for a lot of years and mostly been able to answer my questions without even asking it. I have bought and sold several things here. You have just soured me to this form.

With that said **** YOU I am done with this form.

Schurkey

I'm talking to someone who doesn't know the difference between "your" and "you're", and who doesn't end a question with a question mark instead of a period.

Form? Do you mean "forum"?





Maybe there's a reason I'm the only person on this "form" who bothered to spend time answering your questions. If you can't make enough effort to properly format and type your needs, why should anyone else spend time providing advice?

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

I am an engineer not an english teacher. Yes my spelling might be wronge at times but...I do my best. I thought we we're all 3 gen lovers. Next time I will have my secratary proof read my thread.

But until then my car still isn't running and I am baffled.

The plugs are wet with gas.
The spark apears weak to my eye

I have a complete new dist. to install if anyone thinks that is the problem. or maybe the coil.

Now if my spelling is off or my grammer is wronge please feel free to note it if you don't have an answer. Otherwise please give me your advise on my car issues.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Check your ignition rotor, make sure it has not burned through. Its pretty common actually.

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

Thank You I will check.

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

well got it running but not rite. After disconnecting the injectors and help from starting fluid it runs bad. I have to hold the peddle to the floor to get it to start.
I warmed it up and got it to idle and set the timing.
It runs and idles but when I rev it it back fires a little on the drivers side
I thought I found it when I found the map sensor line was soft and collapsing
But I replaced it and no help
oh the rotor is fine.

morgsie

iTrader: (1)

bad gas? drain tank and fill with fresh.

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

good idea I didn't think of that.
But that still doesn't explain why it is flooding out.
The plugs were/are wet with gas
I'm wondering if the injectors are dirty and open a little
The spray of gas is real heavy on the passenger side and is not real fine.

Another problem may be the IAC.

I am reading my manual and it is pointing that way too. Maybe I should just take the unit off and clean it well. I don't see how it is dirty it is new but I need to start somewhere. I am spinning my wheels.

I have to get it running good again I want to add more HP to it.

morgsie

iTrader: (1)

if the spark plugs have been fouled, they aren't going to magically become unfouled. they need to be replaced before any further testing...

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

The plugs are a little carboned up and wet with gas but the still fire. Do I still need to swap them? I hate to do it before I find out what is wrong just to have it happen again. I know it needs to be done. As soon as I come up with something.

Schurkey

Magic? No...but a good cleaning can save some cash and have the same effect as screwing new plugs in.

Cheapest/easiest for most folks is to grab the plug-wire end with a vice-grip, then heat the center and side electrodes and the porcelain around the center electrode with a propane torch. Propane is hot enough to burn-away the fouling, but not hot enough to melt the electrodes. Yellow flame is fouling burning away, orange flame from the electrodes is fairly normal. When you're done, the porcelain should be white again.

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

Ok I'll just swap them but that doesn't fix anything. It's just a pain in the ***. Takes me an hour.
But... any ideas what is causing the issue?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The diaphragm in the VRFPR could be bad and feeding fuel directly into the engine.

The TBI injector O-rings could be bad feeding fuel directly into the engine.

Hot wire the fuel pump via the red pigtail at the relay and check these. Leave the engine off while doing this.

RBob.

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for piping in RBob I really appreciate your input.

I checked and it doesn't seem to be leaking by at all. I have a pressure gauge installed on my VRFPR and it is holding pressure even with the car off. On another note where is the relay? I found one near the A/C condenser and that's all I found. I unplugged it and applied 12v to the red wire and the pump didn't start.

I am hoping to get the parts for the dist. soon so I can take that out of the equation. I had the Modulator checked out and it is fine but I am not sure about the P-U. It has 2 wires coming out of it and I don't know if they are plugged in rite. Does it make a difference witch one plugs in to witch side of the Modulator?

I am going to get this rite and talk to you about getting another EBL. I sold the last one and had a chip burnt. But since then I installed a 5 speed and an hood scoop. I need a new chip now but it will cost $500 bucks. But first I have to get it running rite.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Need to leave the relay plugged in to hot wire the pump via the red pigtail. It goes through the N.C. relay contacts. The fuel pump relay is over by the brake booster.

The PU wires to the ICM are polarity based. Reverse them and the spark advance retards instead of advancing (once under ECM control).

Also check that the intake manifold bolts are tight, it may be oil fouling the plugs.

RBob.

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again Bob. I will check the bolts when I get home.

I will swap the wires and see if it runs any better.

All the plugs don't look bad. Some actually look good.

I had an issue with the plug wires. Thats all fixed now.

So what do you think RBob? Once I get this fixed should I give your EBL anouther try? I will need to buy it again but it beets having to get a chip burnt every time I change something. Send me all the info on what I need again.

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

Well I swapped the wires and it didn't even start. Swapped them back and it is dead.

I haven't re-torqued the intake yet.

With the fuel pump running and engine off am I looking for drips from the injectors? There is none.

As you can see from the other posts I am going to add some stuff to it but... I'd like it to be running again first.

gregl316

iTrader: (1)

Well got it running again. I have been reading the service manual. I found the engine temp sensor is reading 0 ohms both cold and hot. Not only that the thermostat isn't opening now. When it rains it pours.

At least I found something wrong. Now I will replace the plugs and hope it is done.

I am itching to soup it up even more. I am looking to raise the rwhp to 350 from 252.