db057

I've decided to make this a new post because it's a new problem. I have a 1992 Camaro 305 TBI, I just changed the timing chain (old one was cruddy and lots of slack). I made sure the camshaft dot and the crankshaft dot that are on the gears pointed to one another as it says to do it that way. Slap the timing cover back on and everything. I had changed a timing chain on my old Camaro I used to have, think I had some of the same issues at first but got around them somehow. Not sure what I did, but at first when I started it picked but very low idle sputtered then spit out the carb and died. then did it again, gave it some gas, but just wouldn't stay running. So popped off the distributer cap and moved the marking on the balance to the TDC spot. Can't really figure how to tell the cylinder #1 is all the way up even with a pencil, because it's at an angle and even if a flashlight and mirror can't really see in there. I did take the valve cover off and both 1st intake and exhaust valves appeared closed, I turned the crankshaft a tiny hair and the 1st cylinder intake valve started to open. so I am guessing that is in the right spot. I've tried to move the distributer cap position back and forth and in different spots but not getting anything. I unplugged the brown EST wire and nothing, now I can';t even get that low-idle sputter, just maybe one puff of air. and when I did get a low-idle sputter had smoke coming out of the exhaust manifold sides (unless its the oil I had spilt on it, but didn't think it burned that fast for a 10 second run). Well I checked the 1st spark plug and it has gas on it, think it got kinda fouled. this last attempt had 3 puffs of air come out of the throttle body. No flames or anything, I even took the first plug out and gave a couple quick cranks and saw an orange spark on it.

Is there any better way of doing this? am I missing something? or is there something else I should unplugged? I'm pretty sure the timing gears aren't misaligned.. but I cant see in the 1st port to see the exact position of the 1st cylinder.

BLK87Z

When you install your timing set on a SBC with the crank at 12 and the cam at 6, that's firing on cyl #6, so if you installed your distributor at that point in time, it'd be 180 degrees out, and you get the popping through the intake and wont stay running. The distributor actually needs to be installed when the crank is at 12 and the cam is at 12, or one more revolution from the timing set install. You can actually just take off all your plug wires and plug #1 to where #6 was and going clockwise following the firing order from there and it will run just fine!

db057

I thought I had pulled the distributor back out and turned it the 180 (with the mark at 0 on the harmonic balancer) and couldn't get it to crank at all, but I'll try it again tomorrow. So is it you install the camshaft gear and the crankshaft gear with the marked dots facing one another (that is turn the old one so that they also face one another before removing) but then when it is all back together before re-installing the actual distributor , you rotate the engine one resolution on the crankshaft before putting the distributor back in . makes sense to me. im determined

db057

Well, I hadn't had time today to mess with the car because I had to work, but I did late last night had this gut feeling to take out the ignition control module off the distributer and if I had time after work tonight to get it tested. I bought the distributer with the cap and module NEW. Well the auto store claimed it tested bad. I watched the LED lights for each test. the one labeled HIGH RPM is what turned red as bad, unless there was another way for them to test it, I wonder if it is bad. lifetime warranty on the distributer so may just take it and get it exchanged tomorrow before I try to start it again

mmadden55

What? If you don't take the dizzy out when you change the chain it doesn't matter, you are syncing the cam and dizzy not the crank and dizzy. As long as you aligned the dots properly and didn't install the cam gear 120 degrees out you are fine.

ex-x-fire

One question, did you touch the distributor at all during the timing chain job?

db057

Okay! I took the old distributor back (with the ignition control module) and since it was under warranty just went with a new one. the module tested bad again. slapped the distributor in but turned it 180 degrees, and the car started! adjusted the timing. on 0 .didn't notice any fluctuation this time. tried to adjust the engine idle after it warmed up, but when I dropped it too low (extending the IAC all the way and unplugging it), by backing out the screw, it will just hesitate and die. if I try to maintain it at 750 (if I can even get it to drop). when I reconnect everything. baseline idle doesn't drop before 1200 RPMS, goes up to 40-maybe 50 sometimes before shifting but doesn't feel like its slipping because its moving. just major lack of power. it doesn't cold idle too high anymore. just when in park never dropped before 1200. seems to hesitate on acceleration, just lacks power.. and don't know what else to do.. running out of options or things I have already done. occastionally I hear (something new after taking out the IAC and putting it back in). a whistle sound. also sometimes when driving hear a tapping sound (like if you were going uphill on arollercoaster ride) pretty steady but then goes away when letting off gas. oil pressure is fine until it's idling in gear, then it may appear to dip low on the oil pressure gauge. fuel injectors tick like they should, but majorly loud.

bad O2 sensor? (even though I replaced it one). bad ign. coil? but i'd think it would probably misfire, or at least noticeable misfire. can low fuel pressure cause higher idle ? (is it compensating). replaced intake manifold gaskets and nice seal. don't know what else can vacuum leak that I haven't checked or replaced.

db057

Is the vacuum line to the charcoal canister that connects onto the TBI unit suppose to have vacuum through it all the time . If I unplug it from the TBI unit, should there be vacuum through that little port on the TBI unit at all times? When I unhook the line from the TBI unit, nothing changes. no higher or lower idle. I would think unhooking the line would cause a higher idle. just wondering.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

No, it is a ported vacuum source.

RBob.

bodyman57

When you set the timing did you unhook the tan wire and set it??
If not the timing will be off. Once you get that tan wire unhooked set your timing to about 4 to 6 degrees advanced and hook tan wire back up. This is the right way to set the timing.
Chevrolet says 0 degrees I know. but try advancing the timing to 4 or 6 degrees advanced. Should have power and not spark knock. make sure all vacuum lines are hook where there supposed to be.
I have seen the harmonic balancer on a 305 and 350 slide, which will gave you bad timing mark, check it to see.. hope this helps..

Schurkey

Never mind.

bodyman57

I am new to posting on here and didn't see the date.. so shoot me lol

Chevy_man_88

so the harmonic balancer can make the timing marks go back and forth if its bad?

Schurkey

Yes, but typically, not rapidly. If it was that loose, it'd move farther than a few degrees, and it'd likely make noise. You'd risk damage to the timing cover, too.

When the damper rubber fails, the timing marks tend to move out of position over time.

DaveyDug

iTrader: (3)

Deleted... wrong thread.