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Old 05-24-2002, 09:30 PM   #1
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Best chemical to spray on rusted bolts?

What have you guys found to be the best thing to spray on rusted bolts to loosen them up?
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SOLD 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
355 cid, AFR 190's, SuperRam, LPE 219 Cam, 3.42 gears, 2200 stall Vigilante, BFG Drag Radials (255/50/16)
Milan Dragway: 12.17 @ 111.93 MPH (1.73 60') uncorrected, with ZERO tuning

JUST SOLD 1998 Trans Am, LS1, M6
Milan Dragway: 13.560 @ 109.00 MPH 2.372 60' (airlid and catback with stock RS-A tires)
Current mods: T-Rex cam (243/249 - .608/.613 - 110 lsa) and bolt-ons

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Old 05-24-2002, 09:33 PM   #2
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PB blaster works well for me!
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Old 05-24-2002, 09:49 PM   #3
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ditto
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Old 05-24-2002, 10:42 PM   #4
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if penetrant oils don't work, the flame from a torch often helps.
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Old 05-25-2002, 12:36 AM   #5
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Another vote for PB Blaster. Best stuff I've used so far.
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Old 05-25-2002, 12:38 AM   #6
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My personal order of preference for penetrating oils:

1. PB Blaster
2. Liquid Wrench
3. WD-40

And if you can spare the time, definitely hit it, let it sit overnight, then hit it again before your start work. Worth the wait if you're not rushed or on a schedule (got school or work in the morning).
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Old 05-25-2002, 12:40 AM   #7
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PB Blaster...hmm... never heard of it... how's it stack up againt wd-40 (and the like)??
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Old 05-25-2002, 01:14 AM   #8
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Compared to PB Blaster, WD-40 is like just spitting on the bolt.
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Old 05-25-2002, 01:17 AM   #9
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*drools*
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Old 05-25-2002, 01:18 AM   #10
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PB blaster!! woooooohoooo!! have saved me many a times!!!
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Old 05-25-2002, 01:36 AM   #11
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PB Blaster is great stuff, we used to use it in kragen to free rusted water pump studs. Just let it sit on the bolt and work it around in there. Be patient and it will help!
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Old 05-25-2002, 01:52 AM   #12
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PB blaster is something else (certainly smells like it). I used it when i was removing my old manifolds off my gta and after that stuff did its business you could practically hand-loosen them. Liquid wrench and WD40 work pretty well too...
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Old 05-25-2002, 03:50 AM   #13
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Ever tried 409? works damn well. eats rust right off the bolt. you have to let it sit for a while though. it really works wonders on chrome.
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Old 05-25-2002, 04:22 AM   #14
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At my former work site (General aviation maint) we tried everything on exh manifold bolts/studs and wound up using a product called "Mouse Milk".
It works great on rust, but it's expensive ($17 for 8 ozs a few years ago) and really hard to find.
I bought a bottle abt 8 years ago and still have abt 1 oz left..
It goes a looong ways.
I used it recently on my sway bar end links.
They haven't been apart in 20 years, but came right off using the mouse milk.

If anyone is interested,
it's distributed by:
Worldwide Filter
1689 Abram Cr
San Leandro, Ca 94577
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Old 05-25-2002, 11:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by ZZ28ZZ

I used it recently on my sway bar end links.
Haha, that is one of the reasons why I asked. I sheered off both of the rear sway bar end links from my Bird b/c they were so rusty.
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SOLD 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
355 cid, AFR 190's, SuperRam, LPE 219 Cam, 3.42 gears, 2200 stall Vigilante, BFG Drag Radials (255/50/16)
Milan Dragway: 12.17 @ 111.93 MPH (1.73 60') uncorrected, with ZERO tuning

JUST SOLD 1998 Trans Am, LS1, M6
Milan Dragway: 13.560 @ 109.00 MPH 2.372 60' (airlid and catback with stock RS-A tires)
Current mods: T-Rex cam (243/249 - .608/.613 - 110 lsa) and bolt-ons

My Site: www.geocities.com/buckeyeroc
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Old 05-25-2002, 12:14 PM   #16
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PB Blaster again! That stuff is awesome.

Of course since I've moved from OH to GA I don't have a problem with rusted anything. My can of PB Blaster is collecting dust on the shelf.
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Old 05-27-2002, 10:54 AM   #17
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Kroil or aerokroil

615 833 4101
www.kanolabs.com
1000 S Thompson Ln.
Nashville, TN 37211

I don't know how much it costs per can, but I use it at work (powerplant) and it works wonders on getting off bolts that have been in 2000*+ heat and years worth of ash build up.

I'm going to look for that Pb Blaster though, seems like a lot of people have been happy with it.
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Old 05-27-2002, 01:57 PM   #18
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the absolute BEST way to get a rusted, or any stuck bolt out is to hit it with a torch and get it cherry red. Then as soon as its red hit it with your penatrating fluid.

I used to do that to get oil gallery plugs out....after you do that they come out like they were just put in there....
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Old 05-27-2002, 02:59 PM   #19
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Kroil !!! No question about it. Get it from an industrial hardware suppy or the website BEAST mentioned.
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Old 05-27-2002, 07:18 PM   #20
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PB blaster is my best friend.

Mouse Milk
poor mouse
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Old 05-27-2002, 08:35 PM   #21
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heat from a torch or co2 from a fire extingushier
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Old 05-27-2002, 11:52 PM   #22
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Yup, PB Blaster or Kroil are good choices.

Another good technique is to heat with torch, and then zap them with 'Freeze Spray' which is used for troubleshooting electronics. Get it at Radio Shack. I dont reccomend re-using any bolt you try this on though, as the rapid heatingcooling cycle may sometimes crack the bolts. I split a 3/4" dia. grade 5 set screw doing that once.
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Old 05-28-2002, 12:11 AM   #23
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Never heard of PB Blaster so I'm no help there, but Kroil is the cat's ***...period. This stuff could loosen up my ex!!

www.kanolabs.com
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Old 05-28-2002, 12:17 AM   #24
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Used to use Kroil and that works good. But I've switched to Deep Creep now seems to work a little better. Many times i can remove the nut from the manifold studs with my fingers after breaking loose. Deep Creep is a Seafoam product.Havent tried blaster yet Creep works too good to change.
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Old 05-28-2002, 07:01 PM   #25
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I vote for PB Blaster.

"oh yeah, you can milk anything with nipples."
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Old 05-28-2002, 09:48 PM   #26
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The mouse might like it, Can picture in my mind a company with all the mice on their back with feet in the air...lol. Formula 409 huh? Will try that.
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Old 05-28-2002, 10:02 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by SkyWarrior
I vote for PB Blaster.

"oh yeah, you can milk anything with nipples."
"Oh yeah, can you milk ME? I have nipples." Haha, "Meet the Parents".

I bought some PB Blaster and it worked pretty well on 2 of the bolts. I still had to use a torch on a couple bolts and a hacksaw on the sway bar endlinks. This car was pretty rusted underneath.
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SOLD 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
355 cid, AFR 190's, SuperRam, LPE 219 Cam, 3.42 gears, 2200 stall Vigilante, BFG Drag Radials (255/50/16)
Milan Dragway: 12.17 @ 111.93 MPH (1.73 60') uncorrected, with ZERO tuning

JUST SOLD 1998 Trans Am, LS1, M6
Milan Dragway: 13.560 @ 109.00 MPH 2.372 60' (airlid and catback with stock RS-A tires)
Current mods: T-Rex cam (243/249 - .608/.613 - 110 lsa) and bolt-ons

My Site: www.geocities.com/buckeyeroc
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Old 05-29-2002, 12:30 AM   #28
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From experience with my 2 cars, the end links should be destroyed and replaced anyway.
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Old 02-03-2008, 11:29 PM   #29
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Re: Best chemical to spray on rusted bolts?

after stripping my alternator bolt suing the ratchet is the next best bet a vice grips? I sprayed it with pb blaster and its soaking overnight...any suggestions
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:41 AM   #30
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Re: Best chemical to spray on rusted bolts?

I suggest using a pry bar to take some of the stress off the bolt before you vise grip it. and yea vise grip it, as tight as you can get them. SO tight that if they pop off the speed with which they pop off causes enough friction to make the air around them as hot as the sun.
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