GTATransAM

Hey guys, im now dealing with the fuel filter. Well first i have no idea if the one i bought will fit. Second, how the hell will i loosen this stock filter, besides having bad experience with my filter with the Grand Prix.

Anyways heres the stock filter:



And now heres the Elderbrock Filter i bought next to the stock one:



And finally heres what the Elderbrock came with:



So basically do u think this will work all out, or would i need to get the EXACT same filter to replace it? And if it gets to hard to remove stock filter, should i take it in somewhere?

Thanks guys, later

llvll4l2c91350

Why didn't you just get an AC Delco filter. I've never had any problems with them in any of the 3 Firebirds I've owned.

To remove the filter you gotta loosen the clamp, take two different size wrenches for each end (I forget what size). Use one wrench to loosen the line fitting and the other to hold the filter to prevent it from turning. Use penetrating oil if it's too tight.

GTATransAM

So u think that filter is not gonna work? If not i can run to Advanced Auto Parts and pick one they have there if its gonna be a problem with this Elderbrock.

Which side to i take out first, the "IN" or "OUT" line? I believe from the 1st pic, the "IN" line is the bottom one.

Besides that filter was like $6 i think, not a huge investment even if it doenst fit.

Later

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

Looks to me like your Edelbrock won't work. You have fittings on the stock fuel piping and the edel looks like it requires hoses and clamps. Is your edel even for a high pressure fuel system?

Vader

I'd take that back and get an AC or Purolator filter. While you're there, get a small jar of anti seize compound. Once you try to remove the fittings, you'll understand why.

Yes, Red Devil, I almost have the underside of my entire car anti-seized! I've had to skip it on the pancakes lately since I'm running low...

GTATransAM

Well ill go today and get a Purpulator, or AC one. U know i just read it more carefully in the instructions, and its for Carberated Engines.....oops! Haha, anyways, i'll get the right one at the store.

Anti-sieze compound? What exactly is that?

Thanks guys for response.

Vader

Anti Seize Compound - A paste made of mineral oil, particles of soft and non-ferrous metals, and usually a parrafin to promote adhesion.

The paste is applied to fasteners and parts that may corrode and bond, are subject to carbon fusion, or experience electrolysis. The soft and non-ferrous metals act as sacrificial elements to prevent ion exchange between the base materials that would notmally create a molecular bond or fusion. At higher temperatures, the oil will burn away or evaporate, but the metal particles will remain to prevent seizing and fusion. They also act as an extreme pressure lubricant to aid in disassembly of the parts.

I use it to coat exposed fasteners, exhaust manifold connections, pipes, and any other parts subject to corrosion or seizing. I apply a thin layer to the back faces of aluminum wheels when mounting them to the steel or iron hubs/flanges to prevent the erosion that you would normally see in this area. The dissimilar metals create electrolysis, and the iron atoms usually win, at the cost of eating the aluminum from the mounting surface of the wheels. Your fuel line fittings are a perfect example of where to use it. Since the lines are sealed with an 'O' ring, there is no need for sealant, to the anti seize will not be a problem. Just keep it off the 'O' rings.

I used to have an older Astro that would eat a muffler about every two years (short trips are hard on them, and everything else). After using anti-seize on the pipe joints and muffler clamps, the parts could be removed easily after over two years of use in rain, salt, etc. I saved a lot of pipe replacement that way. No chiseling or flaming off the clamps and pipes - just a wrench and a twist of the muffler, and it's loose.

It's the best thing for exhaust studs, spark plugs, or any place that a steel part contacts aluminum, like intake fasteners, carb screws, TPS screws, etc. As long as the fastener doesn't need a sealant, apply the anti seize. I'd avoid using it on drain plugs, however, since any contamination of lubricating fluids would be a problem.

And even though most manufacturers recommend that lug nuts be assembled dry, I coat the studs to prevent rusting on. The compound doesn't lubricate so much as protect, but there is a remote possibility of the nuts loosening, so do that at your own risk.

91FireChicken

if I remember correctly, a 13mm (1/2" might work too, but I didn't try it) wrench and a 13/16" wrench will fit. doesn't matter much which side you take off first, just open the gas cap first to relieve pressure.. you'll still have some fuel run down your arm, but there's almost no avoiding that.. mine was easy to break loose.. guess it depends on if you've had it replaced before (or if it's been replaced before) .. I'd imagine being on the car for 15 years, it might be hard to break loose. heh

GTATransAM

Sweet more info, thanks guys. Hey the anti-seize stuff sounds pretty good, is that something i can just pick at an auto store?

So dont matter which side to release first, got it. Relieve pressure from the fuel cap, ya i forgot that. No technically theres supposed to be like 40-50psi of fuel in those lines. When i loosen them up, its the amount thats in the fuel lines that will come out, and thats it right?

Either im probably gonna get drenched with fuel huh? Those steel cables dont look to flexible, so i dont know if i catch the fuel with a bucket or something.

Hey would that anti-seize be good for the thermostat since there so DAMN hard to unloosen those bolts? I still havent got them loose.

Maybe when my SLP CAI and Flow Booster come in next week, i'll attempt to get the thermostat out again when i have more room to work with since its primarly gonna be around the TB.

Anyways thanks again guys, id be lost without your help.

91FireChicken

yeah, you should be able to get anti-seize at a parts store.

you'll still have some leaking out.. the fuel in the tank might push some out.. but you should have it done fast enough that it won't run you empty.. you shouldn't get to drenched, unless you take a break while under there. heh

not sure about the thermostat, but I'd assume it'd work.

GTATransAM

Ok thanks. One more question, if i dont want to do it, would say an oil change place take care of that? Cause i wanna change my transmission fluid, so maybe have them deal with this **** with the filter and be done with it, right?

Red Devil

Almost? What's left? And to think that I had the audacity to think I was the only one **** enough to put antiseize on my fuel filter threads! I'll chalk it up to braine freeze!

Really though, it is a valid point. If you are planning on keeping the car any length of time, antiseize is one of your best freinds. I recommend the jugs of it rather than those dinky tubes, or even worse the little $1 packs. You'd be amazed at how many things around the house it is good for (please, just ask Vader... c'mon just once)

As for my pankaes, nah. I'm too close to Maine for that, they would have my head!

As for doing the work, well, if you want it done right, do it yourself or pay through the a$$. I'd recomend doing the tranny too so that you will have the opportunity to install a drain plug while you have the pan off. And this begets another question. Are you bringing it somewhere in order to have the oil changed?

GTATransAM

No did the oil myself. In fact ive done everything so far like plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, air filter, and pcv vavle. But transmission, and rear-end fluid change is new to me. Plus fuel filter, im unsuccessful doing that. I tried getting it off from my grand prix, but it was a no go. Even my dad tried getting that filter out, he couldnt either.

Fuel filters have to be by far the hardest *ucking filters to change, i swear.

I seen some nice rear-end caps they sell with drain plugs, that id like to get. Plus they are in chrome too, that would look sweet. Better than unbolting the whole damn thing!

Red Devil

Tranny and rear diff oil changes are pretty easy, and after the first time you can add the drain plug. On the rear diff, I would rather pull it off in order to inspect the gears.

You have witnessed first hand why some of us like antiseize graphite and such. It makes life sooo much easier at times.

Am I dating myself when I say 'crome don't getcha home'?

As far as getting the bloody thing loose, there are a few really good lubes out there that you could hit it with (it's late and the names elude me right now) and there is one in particular that I've used from GM that I swear breaks anything if you let it sit overnight. Maybe some of the guys can chime in and tell you some of the products they like to use. Good luck.

GTATransAM

Is it like a WD-40 type of oil base thing? Maybe something out some sort of acid fluid to burn through that crap huh?

Ya im sure someone knows what u talking about, and i could use the best right now if i wanna loosen that filter, and the thermostat.

Now those bolts on the rear-end, are they just as hard to loosen as the thermostat and fuel filter?

If u think of the name of the GM product let me know, and probably Monday i'll do the shopping.

Anyways im getting off now, probably gonna sleep, so i can sleep in tomorrow, hehehe.

Hey thanks for help so far.

Later

91FireChicken

Well, for example, if you take it to a Jiffy Lube (if you have those), they'll charge you somewhere around $50 to change the fuel filter, $90+ to do the transmission fluid (although they do change more than just the fluid in the pan, they change ALL the fluid, which is sometimes discouraged if you haven't done the tranny fluid in a while) .. $30 for the differential... and this is all if the prices haevn't gone up, which they probably have. Fuel filter: Two simple fittings. Differential fluid/gasket: Fairly simple. Manual Transmission: Easier than changing oil. Auto Transmission: About the same as the differential and oil combined. heh.. basically, ALL of your fluids and filters (yes, ALL of them) should be easy enough you can do them. If you can change the oil, you should be able to figure them all out.

383 rocket bird

Get PB blaster I think its called from like any auto parts store. it has a vellow cap comes in aerasol an has like little labels over the can. Works great for breaking stuff loose.

shotgun

easiest way to do it imo (in my opinion), back it up ramps (if you dont have ramps you can get them for $20 at kragen but, ironically, you have to pay another $26 for extensions so your car can get up them.) back it up the ramps, get on your back from the rear end, change filter. Clean arm after you get some gas on it and make sure the fittings go on right (you should be able to screw it on a lot of the way with ease) then tighten that sucker down good! I mean good, I couldnt get a torque wrench under there anyway, and I had a drip after I put it back on. Tightened it down HARD and it was all fine. I get ac delco only now the owner before me had a purolator well, nm. It probably has more to do with how often you change it and the gas station you go to.

btw theres an arrow on the filter showing you which way the gas should be flowing through it...

Vader

383 nailed it. Blaster! PB is great as a penetrating fluid, but as with any of them, you need to get it on the parts early, and allow it time to do its job.

Anti seize isn't a penetrating fluid. It has to be applied at assembly to work. Thermostat housing bolts are a prime eample of where to use it - steel bolts into aluminum.

And Red Devil, Maine and Vermont are probably #1, but the tappers in Wisconsin sugar up a pretty good medium grade A amber as well. 40- or 50-to-1 makes a pretty good product, but the Never-Seez gives it that nice, pearlescent sparkle that you just can't get straight from the tree...

Morley

If you can't fid antiseize just use a good Molly-B grease, it works about as good as any antiseize (automotive type) and is easier to find.

GTATransAM

Alright, more detailed help, sweet! Um getting ramps huh, i dont like those things, i get nervous driving up them, so i think im just gonna jack it up from the rear chassis, and then use jackstands.

When i wanted to remove my cat from my Grand Prix, my friend and I used ramps. Well he guided my up into those, but i got a little jumpy, and went right over them! Luckily the ramps were about the same height between my car, so it just cracked a little bit on the underside of the car. But still, i hate those things, id have to get someone who i trust is good driver going up one of those damn things.

So PB Blaster sounds like the thing to use, i'll get it tomorrow.

Well i'll be honest, i will attempt to do all this stuff to my car myself first. And if it cant work out, i'll get my dad to help. The good thing is that its still February, so no need to rush it out u know.

So about $170 to get all that stuff done!?! Crap, no way man, i can get some SFC for a little bit more for that much money!

Anyways, thanks again guys.

So bottom line. I go tomorrow and get the PB Blaster and AC Delco Fuel Filter, along with Transmission and Read-End Fluid. Plus get that Anti-Seize compound.

So i go home spray the **** out of the fuel filter with PB Blaster, and maybe even the rear-end bolts. Give it a day or two, and then try to remove and change fluids. I think i got it now.

Later

llvll4l2c91350

I find it easy to go up ramps. I just stick my head out the window and very lightly tap the gas while my left foot is on the brake. Never went over those things. But I have to do it outside cuz the floor in my garage is smoother and those things just slide.

Also don't forget to get the Posi additive for the differential fluid.

GTATransAM

Posi addictive, is that fluid u put in the rear-end, or another fluid to go along with the rear-end fluid?

llvll4l2c91350

It's an additive that comes in a tube that you put in with the rear end fluid. Some differential fluid brands are already approved for Limited Slip so the additive isn't needed.

91FireChicken

Don't forget gaskets where needed.. differential gasket and tranny pan gasket.. they'll probably rip into pieces when you pull them apart.. make sure you get all of the old gasket off (razor blade should do the trick) and you might wanna get some gasket sealer... I'm not sure about the sealer though, I didn't use any on mine, and I don't have any problems.. maybe the other guys know better than me... there's no reason NOT to use gasket sealer on them, is there?

anyway, if you can change oil, I promise you can change all these other things. It's barely any different, so have some confidence in yourself. If you need, get a Chiltons and use it to guide you through.

llvll4l2c91350

Go with rubber gaskets. The cork ones have a tendency to leak.

GTATransAM

Ya i have a Chiltons, thats something i can fall on. I havent really checked underneath where the rear-end is. But to empty it, i know i have to take out the 10 or 9 bolts it has. But when i get that all done, how does it get filled up again? Cause u obviously have to put the cap back on and secure the 10 or 9 bolts again, so is there like a hole on top of the rear end to fill it up or something, little confused there.

Ah yes gaskets, forgot those too. Gotta put those on the shopping list tomorrow. Im gonna tell them what i wanna do too, so im sure they'll get me all the right parts.

As far as the fluid, i look into that and see if can get one thats already limited slip approved.

Thanks
Later

breathment

umm Vader.. where did u learn all this stuff?!?:hail: Iv always wondered this, but where did u goto school and how did you learn everything you know?

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

There's a fill hole on the pass side of the housing. A 1/2 ratchet unscrews the fitting. Fill it up through there until it starts leaking out of the fill hole. Car level is the best way.