david auster

iTrader: (10)

Ok guys, first off thanks for all those wonderful ideas on getting the bolt out.

I drilled out the broken bolt, each time increasing the size of the drill bit until I reached the size of the bolt. I then grabbed my tap and made new threads in the hole. Everything was going great, I put the housing on and snuged it down and it fit perfect. When I removed the housing I noticed that the new hole I tapped has a crack at the bottom. I don't know if I just totally screwed my intake, because the bolt hole is supposed to be seperated from the coolant passages. Is there anything I can do to the intake to make it functional and keep coolant from spewing out of the bolt hole? What if I wrap the bolt with a bunch of teflon tape or something. JB Weld, I have no clue what to do

Please, please help me. I was so happy to get the stupid bolt out and now I think I am worse off than when I started.

Thanks

Engineboy

Just install it as normal and put some liquid teflon on the threads. It should be fine.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...

R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"

87tpi420

i dont follow your question to well..

1.) are you saying there is a crack in the threaded area on the outside of the manifold(this looking from the front of the car you can see a crack)
2.) or is there a crack at innerside of threads(near thermostat)

3.)or at bottom of threads(looking straigt down into bolt hole)

my opinion-ated answers......
1.) if it is on the outside......pull the intake, get a newone,of have yours welded (welding wont cost that much for such a small job)

2-3 if this is what you were talking about, what i would do is goop the bolt (not excessively) with some rtv silicone and thread it in.i would also say let it dry before filling coolant/starting it.
see what others say...but if i follow you, it is what i would do...........BUT...it something is cracked in the threaded area, chances are over time it will loosen up the bolt and cause you problems. but i am not tottally sure what you are talking about

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87 z28 bowtie aluminum 420small block dry sump crower lt. wt. knife edged crank oliver lt wt rods brodix track 1's super ram intake slp 1 3/4 headers accel dfi art carr 700 r4 3.42 gears ssm sub frame/ladder bars.....other parts on the way ,soon to be finished!! couple more weeks!!!

david auster

iTrader: (10)

Ok, let me try and explain better. If you look straight into the thermostat hole you can see the way the casting is formed in the area where the bolt would go in. This casting seperates the coolant from the bolts that hold down the housing. Now when I retaped the hole and tightend the housing down, I cracked this casting. I think the crack is probably at the best place it could be in, which is all the way at the bottom, where the bolt would bottom out at.

Liquid Teflon sounds like a good idea. I have some 2 part epoxy and I was wondering if that stuff would be stable to handle the heat of the coolant. I could drop some epoxy down into the hole, let it cure and then get a shorter bolt and drown it in Liquid Teflon.

Anyway I will resume work on it tommorow, so any more suggestions for me to play with would be great.

Thanks

Vader

Use Loctite/Permatex PST sealant or a similar thread sealing compound. Standard PTFE (Teflon) paste or tape are made for tapered pipe threads and don't always seal well on straight bolt threads (or hydraulic fittings, for that matter).

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
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