Token

Well today I put six hours into my car. I removed the headers, one motor mount, accessories, a bunch of random crap, and front bumper and gfx pieces. I am going to be repairing and painting the bumper in class. Taking that damn thing off took more time than the rest of the crap I did.


I have one concern though. My engine siezed up (spun bearing caused sh*tty oil pressure, then the engine just STOPPED at ~1800 rpm a few months ago). I can't turn that damn thing at all. I put a 2' breaker bar on the crank and it wasn't going anywhere. What do I do now? I would REALLY not want to drop the tranny with it, but I need to get that friggin thing around to access the torque converter bolts. Anyone have any recommendations?

Engineboy

Support the trans and put a BIG *** pan under the gap between the trans and engine.

Pull the engine with the torque converter, it makes a mess, but the converter just slips out from the front of the trans.

Token

I'd want to do this with the engine partially hoisted right? Just to take the weight off and make it easier...

Engineboy

You want to jack the trans up as far as the tunnel will let it go, and hoist the engine at the same time so they are even, slide it out carefully so you dont mangle the converter snout.

And if you do, hey, its a good excuse to upgrade to a stall.

Token

I've got a converter from an S10 for my application

AutoX86Z28

why dont you want to take the tranny and the motor out as one? its the easiest way to do it IMO.

Token

I was told otherwise, but I don't know.

rgarcia63

Also makes it easier to put back in.

Token

Is it easier to do than the above task?




btw,

IROCaholic

it is a hell of alot easier to install with both as one unit.Its a biatch to try and align the trans and engine during the istall when the trans is left in the car. Just unbolt everything connected to the trans. BE SURE TO PUT A JACK UNDER THE TAIL SHAFT before you drop the trans cross member, or it will drop to the ground and crush your dist. against the firewall. Then just pull the two out as one unit. Its much easier than trying to unbolt the bolts that connect the trans and engine IMO. I pulled the both of them at the same time in like 6hrs with the help of my little brother who has very little experience working on cars. Strong as an ox though, which comes in handy at times. Good Luck.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Id also pull them out as one rather then risk damage to the front pump. While your at it, when the trans is out, pulling and refreshing the front pump is highly recommended.

Engineboy

Personally, in the past 20+ years of doing this for a living, I have never had a problem pulling one or lining it back up when re-installing when I leave the trans in.

The pump wont get damaged, the converter might. Once the engine is 1 inch from the trans, it is completely out of the pump.

I can have one of these on the ground before the engine even cools off, but what do I know

Both ways work, do whatever way you are more comfortable doing it.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

The bushing material that the converter rides on is MUCH softer then the front pump snout. If teh converter is damaged then you can definatly bet the bushing,a nd possibly the entire pump, are damaged. The clearances between the rotor vanes and the pump housing are super tight and damage to the bushing can misalign the converter and cause the rotor to eat right into both halves of the pump housing. Ive only had a bushing go out, misalign the converter, trash the pump, and take out the entire trans, but hey, what do I know. And, theres also the small issue of engaging the front pump with the converter. For those who didnt have the foresite to index the converter with the trans and the flexplate, this can be rather difficult with the engine haning off the end of the conver. The front pump is somewhat delicate as well, and its less risk overall just to take the extra 2 mins. to unbolt the converter, or pull the engine and trans together, rather then ruin the trans. Its certainy doable to pull the engine with the converter, but id rather take the extra time to ensure the trans isnt possibly damaged.

Engineboy

Let me re-phrase, Im not worried about damaging the converter while its coming out of the pump, the converter almost immediately falls out of the pump. By the time its cleared the bell housing, its already clear of the pump bushing...I dont need a lecture on the hows and whys of transmissions, trust me.

I was more concerned about the converter bouncing off of **** on the way out

Like I said, its one of those "to each his own" things, my way or your way, they both work.

I personally dont see the need to drop the pan, drain the trans and unhook those simple little items and pull it all together.

And in NO way would I re-install it with the converter on it, thats just retarded. Im just talking about removing, and removing ONLY.

I guess thats what happens when you work flat rate for 10 years and run shops for another 5, you learn what works the best for you.

I say do whatever you are more comfortable doing.

Engineboy

Besides, if he pulls the whole thing together, he still has to remove the torque converter and engine from the trans all in the same shot, whats the differance if its in chassis or not?

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

From that statement, you seemed to imply that thats what you did, my apologies...

My concern for it wouldnt be with you. You know how to do it. But with the origional poster whos never pulled an engine before, he wouldnt know to be careful with the engine as it first clears the dowls. The first time I had the motor out I didnt know that the dowels where what was aligning it to the trans and I had way too much force on the motor. Alot more then its own weight. I could easily have made the same mistake with the converter still on the trans. With the ammount of force on the motor, it would have damaged both the pump and possibly the input shaft. For a first timer, its easy to see how problems might arise. Its not too terribly difficult to pull the pump or the rest of the input assembly with teh trans still together, but its not something Id like to do because I was being stupid.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

He does have the option of getting an extra hand or two and carefully guiding the trans out of the way.

Engineboy

Yeh, after your comments I went back and read what I wrote, I see where we miscommunicated

Thats why I clearified.

Either way, he will have to seperate the 2 with the converter on the engine, it just depends on whether he is more comfortable doing it on the ground or in the chassis.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

OK

I definatly would have seriously damaged my trans on my first engine pull if I left it hooked up to the flex plate. But, that would have been a blessing in diguise since the trans was going to die shortly there after anyway.

Token

this is very true.

rgarcia63

I'd pull out the dizzy, remove the oil sender as well, just something less to worry about.

Token

There's virtually nothing on this motor I am re-using... Plus, the engine is already stripped to the long block