Engine problem
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Engine problem
ok i had my wiring done by dyno don it looks like he did the job but there is one wire on the passenger side that he could not figure out dont know if it affects the car...ok here is the problem fixed some vaccum leaks like throttle body gasket, and some emmision hoses well the car iddle good for a bit then just died i tried to adjust the disrtibutor a bit still it died i tried to give it some gas and it kinda did nutjing and wanted to die but then when i let it idle it kinda got normal but still died...any ideas
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Engine problem
ok i had my wiring done by dyno don it looks like he did the job but there is one wire on the passenger side that he could not figure out dont know if it affects the car...ok here is the problem fixed some vaccum leaks like throttle body gasket, and some emmision hoses well the car iddle good for a bit then just died i tried to adjust the disrtibutor a bit still it died i tried to give it some gas and it kinda did nutjing and wanted to die but then when i let it idle it kinda got normal but still died...any ideas
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
[QUOTE=ninetyone;5115287]Check your injectors first. Ohm them out.[/QUOTEat what ohms should they be at
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
[QUOTE=ninetyone;5115347] great video..i will check my injectors and see what i get
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
i measured the ohms at the injectors and this is what i got
left bank from front to back in order:
#1. 16.4
#2. 11.9
#3. 16.6
#4. 12.0
right bank from front to back in order:
#5. 12.2
#6. 15.5
#7. 13.8
#8. 14.2
i think i have some bad injectors
left bank from front to back in order:
#1. 16.4
#2. 11.9
#3. 16.6
#4. 12.0
right bank from front to back in order:
#5. 12.2
#6. 15.5
#7. 13.8
#8. 14.2
i think i have some bad injectors
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#8
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
its a deal but i have no job my dad helps me with what he little has my best bet is to go to the junkyard and test thim with my DMM to check they are with in specs but i dont know what the specs are for example 16.4 ohms to 15.5 ohms i told a buddy of mine to check that for me or unless some one hooks me up with that info
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Car: 91 formula ws6
Engine: 355 tpi OBDII
Transmission: 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 with 4th gen brakes
Re: Engine problem
even with good readings junkyard units may be crap. they fail under heat so be careful. arent there some ford injectors that cross over? 4.6 mustangs i believe. they arent 20+ yrs old so they may be a better bet.
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
thanks for the heads up but we are still not getting down to my problem
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Engine problem
why dont u look on thirdgen classifieds or craigslist, ebay. Probably find a good set for $25-$50
#13
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
now thats a more affordable price for me i will look into it but there is gas going i will try instead to do it like this works the same way as spark plug method ..let the car idle disconnect the injector and if it drops idle that one is good then plug it back in and check the next injector until you disnoect one and it stays idle fine than thats the bad injector
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Engine problem
now thats a more affordable price for me i will look into it but there is gas going i will try instead to do it like this works the same way as spark plug method ..let the car idle disconnect the injector and if it drops idle that one is good then plug it back in and check the next injector until you disnoect one and it stays idle fine than thats the bad injector
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
i replaced the injectors now it just cranks but no start
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
ok i tighten down the disty and it starts but i have to keep giving it throttle to keep it on or else it just dies after keping it on for a min or so i ohm'd the injectors again and the all were 16.2 i also checked the fuel rail to see if there was gas and i pocked the nozzle on the left rail and gas skirted out so there is gas what else could the problem be there is also some back firing noise coming from the engine
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Engine problem
ok i tighten down the disty and it starts but i have to keep giving it throttle to keep it on or else it just dies after keping it on for a min or so i ohm'd the injectors again and the all were 16.2 i also checked the fuel rail to see if there was gas and i pocked the nozzle on the left rail and gas skirted out so there is gas what else could the problem be there is also some back firing noise coming from the engine
#19
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
the fans do come on i will try to go back to the junkyard and see if the computer is still there and i will remove the chip and try that one
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Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Engine problem
ok i tighten down the disty and it starts but i have to keep giving it throttle to keep it on or else it just dies after keping it on for a min or so i ohm'd the injectors again and the all were 16.2 i also checked the fuel rail to see if there was gas and i pocked the nozzle on the left rail and gas skirted out so there is gas what else could the problem be there is also some back firing noise coming from the engine
#21
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
i left it a lil bit loose so i can advance or retard the timing to keep it at idle and then set the timing but it would not idle long enough to set the timing right but after checking the disty was more loose than what i had left it so i tighten it down i will recheck the top dead center and make shure its at 0 and disty is pointing to #1 and see if there is any change
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
i did the stephascope test with the srew driver on the injectors and there is no cliking sound
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
yeah the icm is plugged in after reading the haynes maunal i came to the conclusion that the ecm is bad as stated under the haynes manual
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
Ok after some research on the tech boards there is a lot of signs that point to the ignition control module some of you already suggested that so my dad got one for me and gona go and change it and see what happens and I'll keep you guys posted on the results
#29
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
ok i changed the msd ignition control module with a factory one...i took the spark plug out and while still in the spark plug wire was touching to ground and there is a red spark i know it should be blue now what
#30
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Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Engine problem
Red, yellow, blue, or white colored spark, but does it start?
#31
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
it wanted to on the first rotation but then just keeps cranking
#32
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Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Engine problem
Going back over your replies:
You changed the injectors, although some did need replacing, it should have run, not smooth, but run regardless with the old ones.
You've replaced the ICM, so you have spark, but you doubt the quality of the spark. An auto parts store should be able to test the ICM, at the least it should work cold, if it test good.
Don't even bother with the ECM, I don't mean for it to be disconnected, but do remove the injector fuses for now.
When starting an engine the only thing the ECM does besides VATS & Fuel Prime is fire the injectors using the same signal the ICM produces to fire the spark plugs which the ECM doesn't control until the engine is actually running. At this point the engine is no different than a non-computer controlled engine with a HEI distributor. if you have good compression and spark at the proper time and add a little fuel into the intake it will start and run while the fuel last.
So you have spark, and compression is a given, but before you can add fuel proper timing has to be verified and I say this because you have:
The procedure for timing alignment is all over the net, I as well as others have posted it on these forums, so choose one or the other that best explains it to you.
I would without a doubt install a new set of plugs after timing is verified, and or corrected and use starting fluid, if it starts re-install the injector fuses and try again.
Do not leave the distributor loose, once you know it will stay running you can set initial timing, but check it twice as tightening the hold down clamp can cause it to move.
Good luck, Raul.
You changed the injectors, although some did need replacing, it should have run, not smooth, but run regardless with the old ones.
You've replaced the ICM, so you have spark, but you doubt the quality of the spark. An auto parts store should be able to test the ICM, at the least it should work cold, if it test good.
Don't even bother with the ECM, I don't mean for it to be disconnected, but do remove the injector fuses for now.
When starting an engine the only thing the ECM does besides VATS & Fuel Prime is fire the injectors using the same signal the ICM produces to fire the spark plugs which the ECM doesn't control until the engine is actually running. At this point the engine is no different than a non-computer controlled engine with a HEI distributor. if you have good compression and spark at the proper time and add a little fuel into the intake it will start and run while the fuel last.
So you have spark, and compression is a given, but before you can add fuel proper timing has to be verified and I say this because you have:
- Spark, but may not be hot enough, this may be because of the current condition of the spark plugs.
- Compression is assumed good.
The procedure for timing alignment is all over the net, I as well as others have posted it on these forums, so choose one or the other that best explains it to you.
I would without a doubt install a new set of plugs after timing is verified, and or corrected and use starting fluid, if it starts re-install the injector fuses and try again.
Do not leave the distributor loose, once you know it will stay running you can set initial timing, but check it twice as tightening the hold down clamp can cause it to move.
Good luck, Raul.
#33
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
Going back over your replies:
You changed the injectors, although some did need replacing, it should have run, not smooth, but run regardless with the old ones.
You've replaced the ICM, so you have spark, but you doubt the quality of the spark. An auto parts store should be able to test the ICM, at the least it should work cold, if it test good.
Don't even bother with the ECM, I don't mean for it to be disconnected, but do remove the injector fuses for now.
When starting an engine the only thing the ECM does besides VATS & Fuel Prime is fire the injectors using the same signal the ICM produces to fire the spark plugs which the ECM doesn't control until the engine is actually running. At this point the engine is no different than a non-computer controlled engine with a HEI distributor. if you have good compression and spark at the proper time and add a little fuel into the intake it will start and run while the fuel last.
So you have spark, and compression is a given, but before you can add fuel proper timing has to be verified and I say this because you have:
The procedure for timing alignment is all over the net, I as well as others have posted it on these forums, so choose one or the other that best explains it to you.
I would without a doubt install a new set of plugs after timing is verified, and or corrected and use starting fluid, if it starts re-install the injector fuses and try again.
Do not leave the distributor loose, once you know it will stay running you can set initial timing, but check it twice as tightening the hold down clamp can cause it to move.
Good luck, Raul.
You changed the injectors, although some did need replacing, it should have run, not smooth, but run regardless with the old ones.
You've replaced the ICM, so you have spark, but you doubt the quality of the spark. An auto parts store should be able to test the ICM, at the least it should work cold, if it test good.
Don't even bother with the ECM, I don't mean for it to be disconnected, but do remove the injector fuses for now.
When starting an engine the only thing the ECM does besides VATS & Fuel Prime is fire the injectors using the same signal the ICM produces to fire the spark plugs which the ECM doesn't control until the engine is actually running. At this point the engine is no different than a non-computer controlled engine with a HEI distributor. if you have good compression and spark at the proper time and add a little fuel into the intake it will start and run while the fuel last.
So you have spark, and compression is a given, but before you can add fuel proper timing has to be verified and I say this because you have:
- Spark, but may not be hot enough, this may be because of the current condition of the spark plugs.
- Compression is assumed good.
The procedure for timing alignment is all over the net, I as well as others have posted it on these forums, so choose one or the other that best explains it to you.
I would without a doubt install a new set of plugs after timing is verified, and or corrected and use starting fluid, if it starts re-install the injector fuses and try again.
Do not leave the distributor loose, once you know it will stay running you can set initial timing, but check it twice as tightening the hold down clamp can cause it to move.
Good luck, Raul.
#34
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Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Engine problem
if the battery can turn the engine several times to produce sufficient compression it should be fine, but replacing with proper battery is a good idea.
#35
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem
the battery cant turn it i usually give it a jump to help it turn over
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