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Old 12-07-2011, 03:19 PM
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Car: '86 TRANS-AM WS6
Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
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Engine problem

ok i had my wiring done by dyno don it looks like he did the job but there is one wire on the passenger side that he could not figure out dont know if it affects the car...ok here is the problem fixed some vaccum leaks like throttle body gasket, and some emmision hoses well the car iddle good for a bit then just died i tried to adjust the disrtibutor a bit still it died i tried to give it some gas and it kinda did nutjing and wanted to die but then when i let it idle it kinda got normal but still died...any ideas
Old 12-07-2011, 04:17 PM
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by DiabloWS6
ok i had my wiring done by dyno don it looks like he did the job but there is one wire on the passenger side that he could not figure out dont know if it affects the car...ok here is the problem fixed some vaccum leaks like throttle body gasket, and some emmision hoses well the car iddle good for a bit then just died i tried to adjust the disrtibutor a bit still it died i tried to give it some gas and it kinda did nutjing and wanted to die but then when i let it idle it kinda got normal but still died...any ideas
Check your injectors first. Ohm them out.
Old 12-07-2011, 04:57 PM
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Re: Engine problem

[QUOTE=ninetyone;5115287]Check your injectors first. Ohm them out.[/QUOTEat what ohms should they be at
Old 12-07-2011, 05:11 PM
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Re: Engine problem

[QUOTE=DiabloWS6;5115331]
Originally Posted by ninetyone
Check your injectors first. Ohm them out.[/QUOTEat what ohms should they be at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_g8PdrT0MCU
Old 12-07-2011, 06:22 PM
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Re: Engine problem

[QUOTE=ninetyone;5115347]
Originally Posted by DiabloWS6
great video..i will check my injectors and see what i get
Old 12-09-2011, 03:02 PM
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Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
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Re: Engine problem

i measured the ohms at the injectors and this is what i got
left bank from front to back in order:
#1. 16.4
#2. 11.9
#3. 16.6
#4. 12.0
right bank from front to back in order:
#5. 12.2
#6. 15.5
#7. 13.8
#8. 14.2
i think i have some bad injectors
Old 12-09-2011, 03:19 PM
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Re: Engine problem

Look into southbayinjectors.com the bosch3 #22hr. They have a 10% discount for tgo members.
Old 12-09-2011, 05:08 PM
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Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
Transmission: TH700R-4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by tunedperformanc
Look into southbayinjectors.com the bosch3 #22hr. They have a 10% discount for tgo members.
its a deal but i have no job my dad helps me with what he little has my best bet is to go to the junkyard and test thim with my DMM to check they are with in specs but i dont know what the specs are for example 16.4 ohms to 15.5 ohms i told a buddy of mine to check that for me or unless some one hooks me up with that info
Old 12-10-2011, 11:04 PM
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Re: Engine problem

even with good readings junkyard units may be crap. they fail under heat so be careful. arent there some ford injectors that cross over? 4.6 mustangs i believe. they arent 20+ yrs old so they may be a better bet.
Old 12-11-2011, 02:53 PM
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Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by fireburdluvr85
even with good readings junkyard units may be crap. they fail under heat so be careful. arent there some ford injectors that cross over? 4.6 mustangs i believe. they arent 20+ yrs old so they may be a better bet.
thanks for the heads up but we are still not getting down to my problem
Old 12-11-2011, 04:14 PM
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Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
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Re: Engine problem

have u tried new injectors yet?
Old 12-11-2011, 04:16 PM
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Re: Engine problem

why dont u look on thirdgen classifieds or craigslist, ebay. Probably find a good set for $25-$50
Old 12-11-2011, 06:05 PM
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Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by ninetyone
why dont u look on thirdgen classifieds or craigslist, ebay. Probably find a good set for $25-$50
now thats a more affordable price for me i will look into it but there is gas going i will try instead to do it like this works the same way as spark plug method ..let the car idle disconnect the injector and if it drops idle that one is good then plug it back in and check the next injector until you disnoect one and it stays idle fine than thats the bad injector
Old 12-11-2011, 07:52 PM
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Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by DiabloWS6
now thats a more affordable price for me i will look into it but there is gas going i will try instead to do it like this works the same way as spark plug method ..let the car idle disconnect the injector and if it drops idle that one is good then plug it back in and check the next injector until you disnoect one and it stays idle fine than thats the bad injector
I thought you tested them properly with a meter already?
Old 12-12-2011, 12:52 AM
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Engine: 1989 355 TPI L98
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Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by ninetyone
I thought you tested them properly with a meter already?
i did but a friend of mine told me you can use that method to check if there is a bad injector
Old 12-15-2011, 01:57 PM
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Re: Engine problem

i replaced the injectors now it just cranks but no start
Old 12-16-2011, 01:54 PM
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Re: Engine problem

ok i tighten down the disty and it starts but i have to keep giving it throttle to keep it on or else it just dies after keping it on for a min or so i ohm'd the injectors again and the all were 16.2 i also checked the fuel rail to see if there was gas and i pocked the nozzle on the left rail and gas skirted out so there is gas what else could the problem be there is also some back firing noise coming from the engine
Old 12-16-2011, 01:58 PM
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Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by DiabloWS6
ok i tighten down the disty and it starts but i have to keep giving it throttle to keep it on or else it just dies after keping it on for a min or so i ohm'd the injectors again and the all were 16.2 i also checked the fuel rail to see if there was gas and i pocked the nozzle on the left rail and gas skirted out so there is gas what else could the problem be there is also some back firing noise coming from the engine
are your fan(s) running when you have it started (foot on the gas so it won't die)? If they are running it sounds like you are stuck in diagnostic mode. Possibly a bad prom chip.
Old 12-16-2011, 10:26 PM
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Re: Engine problem

the fans do come on i will try to go back to the junkyard and see if the computer is still there and i will remove the chip and try that one
Old 12-17-2011, 12:49 AM
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Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
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Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by DiabloWS6
ok i tighten down the disty and it starts but i have to keep giving it throttle to keep it on or else it just dies after keping it on for a min or so i ohm'd the injectors again and the all were 16.2 i also checked the fuel rail to see if there was gas and i pocked the nozzle on the left rail and gas skirted out so there is gas what else could the problem be there is also some back firing noise coming from the engine
What lead you to believe the distributor was loose? Running the engine while the distributor is loose will move it out of time. You need to reset intial timing, use the Tech articles on the home page to do it right.
Old 12-17-2011, 02:35 AM
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Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 9 bolt/ 3.27
Re: Engine problem

i left it a lil bit loose so i can advance or retard the timing to keep it at idle and then set the timing but it would not idle long enough to set the timing right but after checking the disty was more loose than what i had left it so i tighten it down i will recheck the top dead center and make shure its at 0 and disty is pointing to #1 and see if there is any change
Old 12-20-2011, 04:34 PM
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Re: Engine problem

i did the stephascope test with the srew driver on the injectors and there is no cliking sound
Old 12-20-2011, 04:56 PM
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Re: Engine problem

is the icm plugged in ?
Old 12-20-2011, 08:00 PM
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Re: Engine problem

yeah the icm is plugged in after reading the haynes maunal i came to the conclusion that the ecm is bad as stated under the haynes manual
Old 12-20-2011, 08:02 PM
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Re: Engine problem

Check the 3amp fuses in the fuse box under the dash.
Old 12-20-2011, 08:08 PM
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Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by DiabloWS6
yeah the icm is plugged in after reading the haynes maunal i came to the conclusion that the ecm is bad as stated under the haynes manual
The fans coming on with key on usually means the ECM has bellied up.
Old 12-20-2011, 08:32 PM
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Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by rgarcia63
The fans coming on with key on usually means the ECM has bellied up.
all the fuses are good no the fans dont come on i will check all the wiring since i had it done and i put in a vats bypass i dont think it was done right
Old 12-30-2011, 01:11 AM
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Re: Engine problem

Ok after some research on the tech boards there is a lot of signs that point to the ignition control module some of you already suggested that so my dad got one for me and gona go and change it and see what happens and I'll keep you guys posted on the results
Old 12-30-2011, 07:59 PM
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Re: Engine problem

ok i changed the msd ignition control module with a factory one...i took the spark plug out and while still in the spark plug wire was touching to ground and there is a red spark i know it should be blue now what
Old 12-30-2011, 08:09 PM
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Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by DiabloWS6
ok i changed the msd ignition control module with a factory one...i took the spark plug out and while still in the spark plug wire was touching to ground and there is a red spark i know it should be blue now what
You have spark, then the VATS is working.
Red, yellow, blue, or white colored spark, but does it start?
Old 12-30-2011, 11:42 PM
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Re: Engine problem

it wanted to on the first rotation but then just keeps cranking
Old 12-31-2011, 03:29 AM
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Re: Engine problem

Going back over your replies:
You changed the injectors, although some did need replacing, it should have run, not smooth, but run regardless with the old ones.
You've replaced the ICM, so you have spark, but you doubt the quality of the spark. An auto parts store should be able to test the ICM, at the least it should work cold, if it test good.
Don't even bother with the ECM, I don't mean for it to be disconnected, but do remove the injector fuses for now.
When starting an engine the only thing the ECM does besides VATS & Fuel Prime is fire the injectors using the same signal the ICM produces to fire the spark plugs which the ECM doesn't control until the engine is actually running. At this point the engine is no different than a non-computer controlled engine with a HEI distributor. if you have good compression and spark at the proper time and add a little fuel into the intake it will start and run while the fuel last.
So you have spark, and compression is a given, but before you can add fuel proper timing has to be verified and I say this because you have:
  • Spark, but may not be hot enough, this may be because of the current condition of the spark plugs.
  • Compression is assumed good.
Also assuming the plugs are not fouled, fuel can be added at any time so timing is the only thing left.
The procedure for timing alignment is all over the net, I as well as others have posted it on these forums, so choose one or the other that best explains it to you.
I would without a doubt install a new set of plugs after timing is verified, and or corrected and use starting fluid, if it starts re-install the injector fuses and try again.
Do not leave the distributor loose, once you know it will stay running you can set initial timing, but check it twice as tightening the hold down clamp can cause it to move.

Good luck, Raul.
Old 12-31-2011, 03:51 AM
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Re: Engine problem

Originally Posted by rgarcia63
Going back over your replies:
You changed the injectors, although some did need replacing, it should have run, not smooth, but run regardless with the old ones.
You've replaced the ICM, so you have spark, but you doubt the quality of the spark. An auto parts store should be able to test the ICM, at the least it should work cold, if it test good.
Don't even bother with the ECM, I don't mean for it to be disconnected, but do remove the injector fuses for now.
When starting an engine the only thing the ECM does besides VATS & Fuel Prime is fire the injectors using the same signal the ICM produces to fire the spark plugs which the ECM doesn't control until the engine is actually running. At this point the engine is no different than a non-computer controlled engine with a HEI distributor. if you have good compression and spark at the proper time and add a little fuel into the intake it will start and run while the fuel last.
So you have spark, and compression is a given, but before you can add fuel proper timing has to be verified and I say this because you have:
  • Spark, but may not be hot enough, this may be because of the current condition of the spark plugs.
  • Compression is assumed good.
Also assuming the plugs are not fouled, fuel can be added at any time so timing is the only thing left.
The procedure for timing alignment is all over the net, I as well as others have posted it on these forums, so choose one or the other that best explains it to you.
I would without a doubt install a new set of plugs after timing is verified, and or corrected and use starting fluid, if it starts re-install the injector fuses and try again.
Do not leave the distributor loose, once you know it will stay running you can set initial timing, but check it twice as tightening the hold down clamp can cause it to move.

Good luck, Raul.
that's basically it I have 3 sets of spark plugs all in good condition I will install another set I will do the procedure that you stated on removing the fuel injector fuse the only difference is I'm using a v6 battery to power the car maybe if I buy a replacement battery to simulate the exact conditions that made the car run in the first place it should run its so frustrating that a year has gone in effort and money and the car is not running sometimes I feel like selling it and letting someone else deal with it and buy me another t/a with no problems outer than preventative maintenance
Old 12-31-2011, 12:13 PM
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Re: Engine problem

if the battery can turn the engine several times to produce sufficient compression it should be fine, but replacing with proper battery is a good idea.
Old 12-31-2011, 03:11 PM
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Re: Engine problem

the battery cant turn it i usually give it a jump to help it turn over
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