Reaper_18

Last night I was driving my car and the check engine light came on after about 3-5 minutes of driving. I didn't think much of it. It usually comes on after I cruise at 60 for awhile cause the smog belt was missing and one of the senors isn't reading correctly and few days ago I took off the four plastic pieces under the air filters to see if that would increase my air flow. I also just cleaned the engine bay with Gunk engine cleaner and maybe it or water got into something it shouldn't have. Well when I went to drive it this morning. The check engine light came on right away. Now when I rev the engine, it sputters at 2000rpms, but if I slowly give it gas it has no problem revving past 2000rpms. I've replaced the smog belt and put the four plastic pieces back. I even disconnected the battery to reset the computer but nothing works. Its never done this before. If anyone has any idea on whats going on, please let me know.

ASE doc

There are several possibilities that come to mind. Try reading codes using a paper clip across pins A & B of the ALDL(upper row, far right). Turn the key off, instert the paper clip, then turn on the key but don't start the engine. The CEL will flash codes, starting which code 12, which generally means that the diagnostic system working. Then it will flash a code or codes that should lead to the problem area.

Reaper_18

Im taking it in tomorrow to find out which codes its throwing. I took off the distributor cap to see if some moister had got under the cap. But there was none so I cleaned up with a rag and put it back together. I have found out something new though. If I slowly rev it to 3000rpms and then mash the pedal. The rpms instantly drop and start to spit and sputter at 2000rpms again. I even disconnected the ESC to see if the was problem, but it ran worse with it disconnected, so i plugged it back in. Now under the distributor cap there is a metal pin in the center of the cap. It transfers the spark from the coil to rotor. Is that pin supposed to be springy? Cause on my dads 86 carbed 305 monte carlo ss, we had to get that pin replace because it wasn't springy and needed to be.

ASE doc

I believe the center electrode is supposed to be spring loaded. The center contact on the rotor, that runs against the electrode at the center of the cap, should be a flat metal piece cast into the plastic. If this is the case, the cap's electrode has to be spring loaded to maintain contact with the rotor. If the rotor's center contact is a spring, then the cap's electrode doesn't need to be.

Reaper_18

Sorry for not replying. I've been busy working and trying to fix the car. It has been fixed though. I finally had to take it to a mechanic. He hooked up the computer and it threw up a few different codes. One was the Mass Air Flow senor was bad. So they replaced that but it still didn't fix the problem. The second code was the problem. A sensor that reads the air temp was reading it at 88 degrees and the next minute at -40 degrees. So the fuel to air mixture was really lean. They replaced that and it fixed the problem. So in the end it was that Gunk engine cleaner that cause all this. It dried out the connectors and they cracked from the heating and cooling of the engine. I'm glad to be able to drive my car again. Having it broke down for over a week was way too long. Thank you for your help ASE doc! It was much appreciated.

ibmtech

iTrader: (1)

did you actually spray it into the engine while it was running?

Reaper_18

No. The Gunk cleaner was used to get any oil and dirt that was on the engine. The engine was off and cool. I was following what the directions said. I only started it after I had rinsed it off to dry any water that was left over. Which the directions said to do. I'll never be using any engine cleaner like that again. With the 2 new sensors installed. It feels faster at the top end and it runs better when I first start it up.

ASE doc

The connectors cracking apart is more a symptom of old age and many many heat cycles. I am happy that my Accel DFI system included its own harness with all brand new GM connectors. I hope that I am extending their service life by reducing underhood temps with the functional hood louvers and lower operating temps. It's rare to find a car as old as these 3rd gens are getting now that doesn't have several broken connectors in the engine bay. These connectors have been available in the past as repair parts. I don't know if they still are.

I wash my engine bay as often as I wash the car. I have alot invested in the engine bay and I like to keep it clean and shiny. The key to doing this without causing issues is to have the engine warm before you start. Pretreat the engine with a mild degreaser. I do not recommend Gunk as it is very strong and will strip all of the surface oil from the metal, leaving it open to corrosion. Let the presoak work for a few minutes then spray the engine with high pressure water, using a fan tip, not a pencil spray. The pencil spray will remove paint. Follow the cleaning with hot wax to protect the aluminum from corrosion. The hot wax will also make the engine easier to clean next time by keeping dirt from sticking. Then, once the cleaning is done, let the engine sit and dry for several minutes before starting.

Reaper_18

I'll have to keep that in mind for next time. My engine is just a stock 305. So I don't worry too much about keeping it clean. I want at least 350 in it before I do any engine mods. I've heard the little 305 aren't good engines to add power to. Before I start all that, I need to have the t-top seals replaced and get the front end redone. I hear a knock every once in a while when i use the breaks and when I turn too sharp. I just want to fix all the little quirks before I do anything else to it.

ASE doc

Cool. The main thing is give the car love and enjoy it.