TheExaminer

Ive been having a code 32 for a while. I have a new egr valve, new ecm, I have continuity and power at the egr connector, my vacuum lines are all clear, and the ported vacuum line at the tb is plulling plenty of vacuum. The only two things I hadnt done is remove the intake and clean it, and change the solenoid. The diagnostic flow chart seems to indicate a solenoid issue, so I decided to make that move next. Here are my two questions. The solenoid the PO had on there is marked DR 223, which I discovered is the solenoid for an LT1, and I have a 92 Formula with an L98. Now the only replacement I could find is a DR 173, which ebay says is for a Chevy 305. Every single solenoid for a 92 Firebird on ebay is for a 305. I found none that said "5.7L". So the questions are: 1. Would the fact that the old solenoid was made for a an LT1 be part of my problem? And 2. Will it make any difference that the only replacement I could find says it was made for a 305? I actually did ask this second question here before and seemed get a consensus that it wouldnt make any difference between 305/350. Im wondering if any of this will make any difference at all. I put the DR 173 on today, but have not had the chance to drive it far enough for egr to be commanded.

TheExaminer

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TheExaminer

No ideas from anyone on this?

TheExaminer

Update: I drove the car Sunday, and after about 5 miles, guess what? SES. Ive done everything except pull the intake off and clean it. Im at a loss. Id get the 32 ignore chip, except I dont want to ignore a problem, plus, I dont like what the 32 might be doing to my gas mileage. So is it the wrong solenoid, or still the same "something else" Ive always been dealing with? One mechanic I talked to said that since the car has an after market exhaust (Exhaust Flow I think) it could have changed the back pressure enough to keep the egr from working right, and thus throwing a 32. 74 looks at this and no ideas at all from anyone on this forum?

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

There is no difference in solenoids, 305 or 350 same thing.
An Lt1 is a different story tho. that might be wrong.
The back pressure thing is only for tbi.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

1994 Cadillac Deville, 4.9 solenoid works for yours.From what i have read the LT1 solenoid will not work on tpi. It works the reverse operation of what a tpi solenoid does. That's just what i have read.

TheExaminer

Ok thx. Thats very helpful. PO had that LT1 solenoid on there, and I didnt think that was right. According to google, when you put in DR223, you get info on an LT1 egr solenoid. I didnt get any info from google on the DR173 that I put on, but ebay said it was for the 305, which would work. Also feel better that I dont have to live with SES until I can fork over a grand for exhaust. But still, what the heck is causing my 32 then? Do I really need to pull the intake and clean it? If I thought itd work I might because I think Ive got an intake gasket leak (possibly) and Ive been wanting to take it off and clean/paint it anyway. But the weather is starting to turn crappy, its dark early, and I really dont feel like taking the top of the engine off if I dont absolutely have to, and when theres no guarantee it will solve my problem!

TheExaminer

Of course, dufus that I am, I might have got the vacuum lines reversed when I put it on. I had to stop and think for a second which one went on which. In fact, the more I think on it, the more Im almost positive I have them backwards. LOL I'll have to check that asap, but even if I did, that doesnt mean it would solve my issue if its also something else. Ive done this kind of thing before. Once cross wired ignition wires at the solenoids on my 98 Camaro, causing a slightly rough idle, and once checked the plugs on my Mustang and forgot to put one of the wires back on. Went into a panic the next morning when it hard misfired and the engine light started flashing. I "nursed" it back home, switched cars and brooded over it all day til I came home and found the plug wire hanging there. "Youve got to be kidding me" was my thought.

TheExaminer

Turns out the vacuum lines WERE crossed, so I switched them around properly. Drove the car to work the next day, and 5 miles down the road guess what? SES. I give up, I freakin' give up. Anyone with any clues, feel free to share them.

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

I really hate to steal the OP's thread but would the Devilles solenoid work on an 86 trans am 305tpi?

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Have you already gone through the diagnostic tips on this tech article: https://www.thirdgen.org/egrdiagnose/? Just to rule it out, which vacuum lines did you hook up to which ports on the valve? Make sure there's not a hose coming off the exhaust port on the end of the solenoid; believe it or not someone had stuck a vacuum line onto the back of mine (presumably because it looks like a hose retaining clamp, when really it used to hold a piece of foam that acted as a filter). You can test the EGR solenoid by hooking a 5V source up to the terminals and blowing through the hoses. If I remember correctly the one closer to the solenoid should go to the exhaust port when you don't have power and to the other vacuum line when you do. The other vacuum line shouldn't let anything through without power to the solenoid.

Have you tested the EGR valve itself? If you have a vacuum gauge, try and make sure it holds vacuum (see the tech article), and if possible try to apply vacuum while the car is idling and see if the idle gets rough.

Checking for intake leaks never hurts either. Easiest method I know if is to take a spray bottle and spray around injectors, intake gasket, throttle body gasket etc. Also check to make sure all the hoses are in good condition.

TheExaminer

Yeah, I've read that tech thread several times. It's informative, but doesn't really help me with my problem. The new solenoid was correct for the engine I guess, but I've still got a 32. I also replacd the solenoid connector. The only thing I haven't done is pull the runners and try to clean the intake. I'm going to do that when I have a day off with decent weather. The egr valve is new, so I'm sure it's fine, although I don't remember if I specifically tested it or not. I can do that when I clean the intake and runners, because after 22 years and 156k Im sure they need to be cleaned even if it won't solve my code 32. My vacuum lines are all ok too. I'm just not sure what else to do. And to answer your question about that, I connected the tb ported line to what I call the "open" side of the solenoid. The other side (pictured as yellow below) is what I call the controlled side, and I connected it to the egr valve. That controlled side is closed, as you said, unless there is power to the solenoid. Although if the solenoid is just a simple switch it may not matter which side goes to what, IDK. But I've read what you said about a third port from other posters, and I just don't see it on my solenoid. I've posted a picture of what I have, maybe you can point it out to me because on mine there are only two hose fittings. There IS a little section next to the nipples that juts out a bit as you can see, but it's plugged, no hose can attach there.

willexoIX

Chances are the carbon deposits clogged the passage/passages up. Give the intake a good cleaning and see if you can't find a diagram showing ALL egr passages for your motor.

I know mine was horrible, but I got rid of my 32 cause I got rid of the egr, lol.

TheExaminer

Yeah, I may delete it too, then re-tune the engine to match. I don't know exactly how to go about doing that yet, but I'll research it when/if it comes to that. Im sure it involves changing the timing a little. Right now it's hurting my gas mileage having it not working right, plus it's an annoyance. I hate the engine light ever being on in any of my cars. But I know my passages aren't completely clogged because I reached under and unseated the egr with the car idling and the idle loped and sputtered.

willexoIX

Try cleaning the passages, if you can keep the egr I would recommend keeping it as it is beneficial if working properly.

I went turbo and swapped to an aftermarket ecm so it only made sense for me to delete my emissions equipment BUT there is no inspection where I am.

If you have inspection where you are or lack classic plates(rules differ from state to state), I would advise keeping it and trying to fix it.

TheExaminer

I don't have inspection here in this part of Indiana, so deleting is always an option. I'd rather keep it so the car is original, plus it's a bit of an educational type challenge trying to figure it out. It hasn't driven me nuts yet, but I can see nuts from where I'm standing...ok, that didn't come out right....LOL