joeyspagz

My build is on hold because I'm not sure what carb or cam i should run...

Build so far....

350 4 bolt 2 pc .030 over block

Scat 9000 3.75 crankshaft 935050

6 inch rods
ARP bolts

Sealed Power 8-KH124CL30 Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Piston and Ring Kit
Piston Dia. 4.030''
Piston Top: Flat Top, 2-Valve Reliefs
Floating Pin
Moly Rings

Dura-Bond Coated cam bearings CHP8T

GM Damper 8 inch 6272222
GM Flywheel 3973456n

76cc GM Heads (462624 Casting), waiting for springs

Edelbrock Performer Intake

4 Speed Super T10
Center force clutch

Carb suggestions?

Im looking for some camshaft suggestions. Would like a whole kit with push rods, rockers, springs, etc. Im hoping to get as much HP as possible with these parts, Mostly street will take it to the track once in a while. Please help guys thanks!

9192camaro

Not knowing your compression it's tough to say but for street driven car I wouls go with 600/650 clm carb because it will respond much better for low/mid rpm.lots of people don't like vacuum secondaries but increase fuel mileage and are more tunable than mechanical for street. But mechanical is better for strip.with the cam I would stay less than 235degrees duration at .050 and lobe seperation around 112-114 for good street able vacuum.keep in mind I don't know your exact goals but this is a very similar street set up I had and ran a 13.4@106 with 373 gears and tko 600.i had 750 holley onit at first,made good power but the 650 I had was much more crisp and more enjoyable for street.hope this helps.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

The compression will be somewhere around 9.3:1

I must ask though, why such crappy heads and low rpm intake on such a good short block?

For a 383, I would go with the performer RPM intake, and a much better set of heads. Your heads will choke this engine. Your leaving 60-80 HP or so on the table with those heads.

Those 624 heads are very crack prone, thin castings, small runners, low flowing smog heads.

If you stick with that combo, go with a 600-650 cfm carb (no reason to go any larger cause the heads will just bottle neck the incoming air anyway, plus your not going to get much top end HP out of those heads)

Same for the cam, no reason to go very large as you can't use the higher rpm power band. Maybe something like a 220/230@.050" max.

joeyspagz

Thanks I will change the intake but what heads and cam combo should I use?

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Your budget plans the biggest role with that, also your intended use and goals of car.

Your your just building a fast daily driver with a small budget the 96-00 vortec truck heads would be great.

If you have the money and want to step up to the next level of performance then look at the Brodix IK 200 heads, pro filer, AFR etc heads in the 190 to 200cc intake runner size.

With the Vortec heads a cam close to the 220 to 226 in / 230 to 236 ex @.050 would be good. Mod the heads for higher lift and run around .490" to .510" in / .500" to .525" ex lift

With the better brodix, afr, etc heads, you can step cam up another 10-12 degrees and lift as high as you can get towards .600" lift

joeyspagz

Thanks so much! Would you know around how much hp I would be close to with the vortec heads and cam 220 to 226 in / 230 to 236 ex @.050. What about a carb THANKS!

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Easy 400 HP build. I would think in the 410-430 HP range with 430-455 ft lbs torque.

I would go with a 750 vac sec. carb on that one

joeyspagz

<<<@!1!@>>>

How much of an improvement will the brodix heads give? Are these the the ones?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brodix-Cylinder-Heads-IK-200-Cylinder-Heads-for-Small-Block-Chevy-1020000-/390944777312?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b061fe460&vxp=mtr
The performer RPM intake I don't think works with aluminum heads

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

The performer RPM intake works just fine with a 200cc intake port. It's close to the edge of ports but works just fine. I'm running the Brodix IK 200 heads, edelbrock performer RPM intake and fel pro 1206 intake gasket.

Yes that's the brodix IK heads. Those are bare and will need a valve job plus valves, seals, springs, retainers, etc.

I built a brodix IK 200 headed 10.75:1 383 for a customer a few years back, pretty close to your bottom end, used a solid flat tappet cam 246/254@.050", vic jr. single plane, holley 850 and he made somewhere around 410 HP at the rear wheels (we never done an engine dyno, just a chassis dyno on it). That's right about 500-505 HP at the crank.

If yours is more street use than street/strip or track only, use a dual plane intake, a little smaller carb and a little less duration cam and still be real close to 500 HP. I could see an easy 460-475 HP out of it with the brodix heads (or other good flowing 200-210cc heads)

Oh btw here's a couple of pics of mine with the RPM intake (with 1" open spacer under carb) and brodix alum heads.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The vortech heads require a different intake, so if you choose the vortech it is the heads plus intake you will be purchasing. Later if you decide you want better heads you will again be buying heads and an intake. If you think you would upgrade in the future it would behoove you to skip the vortech. The vortech would also require machine work unless you bought aftermarket vortechs. Another cost. If you aren't worried about gobs of power than just purchase a used name brand head or a new set of pro comp or whatever brand is stamped on them. As for a cam at 9.3 cr look for something up to 230 with 114 lsa or a smaller cam at 220 with a 108/110 lsa

joeyspagz

Ok so i'll get the brodix heads, performer RPM intake and this carb?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191358609663?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

DeltaElite121

Not to hijack, but I've got another set of dart iron eagles if you're not opposed to used. These are also 200cc cylinder heads with comparable performance to their Brodix counterparts.

For the record: your car will respond better on a cam ground on a 106-108 lobe separation angle. Vacuum will be more of a concern, but that's not difficult to fix.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

As long as the duration isn't excessive and kept in range a lower LSA is fine. Lots of articles and comparisons out there. Vizard did a good article on the Big block Chevy comparing the different LSAs. He showed that pulling back the duration, tightening the LSA would produce more power and better vacuum than the new cams that have high duration and wide lobe seperation angles. Straub does the same thing with his cams.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Joey.. I see you live in NY. Will you be driving this car in the winter or colder temps? If so you might want to look at a diff carb.

I like the HP line of holley carbs, even the street HP is good but it does not have a choke on it at all. In colder weather having a choke be it elec. or man. cable opened will make a diff in start up and driveability.

I run a holley 4150 HP 750 double pumper mech. sec. on mine but I'm in GA. and this is not a daily use car any longer for me. So no choke aint a big deal for me.

DeltaElite121

Chris maximizes camshaft profile based on cylinder head and carburetor demands within the designated RPM usage without suffering tapering or dropoff. The object is to have a cam that performs and exceeds at what it's supposed to instead of "averaging the best results" for multiple builds like you see with a ton of shelf cams. Chris doesn't add a bunch of duration because it's simply not needed in most applications; he only gives the lobe profile as much as is going to be usable. Keep in mind he doesn't do cookie-cutter builds, and every build is different also. Also remember that those duration @ .50 numbers are deceptive because that's only ONE measurement of the entire lobe so it's not necessarily smaller collectively speaking... it's just ground different.

Chris is my primary supplier for my company Definitely a great guy to deal with.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

With those 6" rods, you really have to be careful with your dwell times. also with cam grinds. they make really good power when tuned right. also the ring land in your piston is so low its in the wrist pin... Ive heard lots of good stuff about using a 6" rod, how ever if its a first build, they can be really tricky to get tuned right. and that's why lots of guys use 5.7" rods. there is a good video on you tube on building a stroker. guy goes through a lot of options. full of good info. some is arguable but its good to hear someone else ideas. Nice build man!

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Be careful of the Edelbrock RPM intakes, you will need a good drop base air cleaner for it to fit under the Firebird's hood. Camaro's had a bit more clearance and from all accounts, don't need the drop base.

Also, I would be remiss if I didn't say you should get an older non CC style Qjet. It's going to be a 750 or 800 CFM and you'll get the same power with better mpg's due to it's design. It is harder to tune though.