shawnpepper

So, I have been a member for a couple years since i purchased my 85 stock T/A. factory optioned l69 car, beautiful condition 130k original. I loved and drove this car in houston for about a year and a few months, and it decided to start smoking. I had already planed to eventually turn it into a 200 mph car. Before the hate comes.... I do realize what this takes, money, parts, etc. I am a seasoned racer, and master automotive technician. So lets begin.....I removed the tired 305, and was building a another small block, I had decided to make a 400 hp N/A motor to drop in and get the suspension, trans and rear end along with the interior done so i could tune in everything with a throw away engine so i could focus on the final engine (700 ish hp GT45R sbc) after I get the first couple licenses that the Texas mile requires. I thought I would share this progress with you for some basic fab, and engine building and tuning questions. Then when the journey ends, everyone will know what it takes to bring a third gen into the 200mph category. Lets start with the car when i bought it.

shawnpepper

out with the old. Here is my temp engine being built.
we will start with the block and head.
I bought a 4 bolt main long block for 100 bucks, striped it and found a set of 202 160 heads from a 69 chevelle online, (fuelie style)
all cleaned and decked from the machine shop including new guides and cam bearings $400.00, not bad, but they did go a little over on decking on the heads. no matter, ill deal with it.

shawnpepper

so, the reason i wouldn't continue to use this particular engine is that it is thin........................really thin. Although it's a high nickel 4 bolt it was at .060 when i got it, so that meant a total of .080 bore after the machine work. I know......I know, It'll over heat, your an idiot, why dont you look at me when we make love? trust me, it's fine, it'll be okay. So here is a couple of notes for guys just getting into this hobby, if your going to build an engine, organization is key. Second, you need a torque wrench, and the internet, this isn't rocket science, if your good with your hands, and double check your work, you will be fine. It is just a car. I went with Icon pistons, an eagle crank with a 3.47 stroke and eagle I beam rods with with press fit wrist pins. Have a machine shop throw these in, its cheap and they do it fast. All told, about $1200.00 in a solid 400 hp 400 ft lbs engine, 11:1 compression with 64cc chamber heads and a 268 cam.

shawnpepper

To clarify, the machine shop for the press fit pins, don't have them short block it, because your a man......do it yourself, your ********* will increase in circumference. OK.. so here are the assembly pics, i didn't have to grind the rings, because the only rings for those pistons were pre gaped.

shawnpepper

After basic assembly, you want to make sure your rotating assembly moves free, make sure the cylinders are lubricated and double check the the seals. I always double check the cylinder and piston clearance against the head with clay if im worried, but it's not necessary unless you have a tight engine. after full assembly i painted it and installed it.

shawnpepper

after break in start up

If you are wondering about break in on a flat tappet sbc, i used royal purple break in oil, started it and kept it at 2500 rpms - 2000 rpm's for about 15 minutes, shut it down and changed the oil to more break in oil. started it up, let idle and warm up, and then shut it down. I repeat this step about four times to make sure the electric fan is good and i dont have any vapor problems with fuel delivery. Then change to standard oil with a zinc additive. i am also using a melling 25% over oil pump.

shawnpepper

I'll upload more video and explanation of the gauges and overall goal tomorrow.

shawnpepper

Had some extra time today getting ready to take my new position, and decided to tinker a little bit. It's important with a holley carb, to get them adjusted correctly. A lot of guys go with a good enough approach or get an edlebrock. I love the adjustability of a 4150 mechanical secondary. As long as you get the mixture right, they just run great, especially in a place where it doesn't really get cold.

shawnpepper

I decided to go with a set of autometer pro comp gauges, with a 5 " tach and speedo. the gauges in my dash, are the basic oil / water / fuel, then the boost / oil temp / and wideband will go on top in the center of the dash pointed toward me. After the car is driven for a month or two, the cage will be fitted along with the new springs, shocks, a arms, trailing arms, and sway bars. Once that is all dialed in ( probably two months after) i should be ready for beeville come spring time to get an idea of handling characteristics at higher speeds.

shawnpepper

by the by, the gauges are not finished yet, all of the car is pretty much an in progress project, so when it's completed you'll be able to see a consistent time line. The only problems that i have had, were summit sold me a mini torque starter that burned up the fourth time i used it, if you have over 10:1 i suggest a reduction gear starter, i thought the one they sold me would be fine..........not so much.

Damon

You don't get many top-end racers around here. Good for you. I think that's a cool project.

I built and drove an 87 T/A in a race called the Silver State Classic Challenge a hundred bezillion years ago. Ran 181 MPH top end. Scared me enough I'd never do it again. But the build was fun and I learned a few things.

Aside from the power (which you don't have enough to run 200, something I'm sure you already know), the things that helped the most were things drag racers never have to contend with. Here's the 4 most important, from my (admittedly ancient) experience:

1. Get the nose down. 3rd gens like to ride nose-up slightly. That's not good. And the springs better be a lot tighter than stock unless you're running on a super-smooth concrete landing strip for your run. On a Nevada highway that seems perfectly flat and smooth at 100 MPH it's white-knuckle driving and 150+. The car is all over the road to the point all you can do is try to drive it roughly down the middle. A gust of wind and you need a change of underwear.

2. Cut the air out from under it. You decide how, but we used an air dam on the front of the car, all the way across.

3. Take off the side mirrors. Big drag from those little things. Just remove and put duct tape over the holes if it's a temporary thing.

4. Get a good driveshaft. Stuff that works just fine at 150 MPH will shake the car to pieces at 180+. Better to use TALL rear gears and 1:1 gear in the trans than steeper rear gears and OD in the trans.

We started with a T/A because that's what we had and because it's a more slippery car than the Camaro. I think most of that is the exposed headlights on the Camaro, which can be easily remedied. But probably some of it is that the T/A has no forward-facing grille openings. It's a mouth-breather. Not sure what the effect would be from that between the two cars, but probably enough you'll want to address it.

shawnpepper

I will take all knowledge, and thank you. my plan was to use a front spoiler that is removable and cut the air underneath with a rear diffuser. Obviously my wheels and tires are going to be nt01 nitto's or 888 toyos with an hre wheel or something close. Not too many options on tires that can take that kind of abuse. The rear end and driveshaft are my two main concerns, but if i have a 1:1 and about 750 - 850 hp it should work. I planned on a 4 speed richmond or jericho. The final engine will be a 383 roller with a single turbo (gt45). The other problem is bearings (finding ones that don't explode).

shawnpepper

id like to think i can get to the 200 mark by 2017, i only have twice a year to test, tune, and run, so that sucks, but it'll be fun.

redneckjoe

very cool project and write-up with pics. should be a lot of fun.

i was wondering why you went with the 268 cam if your only looking for top end power? wouldnt a "bigger" cam designed for top end power be better suited? just a thought.

shawnpepper

oh yeah, that engine is temporary while I do the suspension and chassis, just wanted around 350-400 or half of the final. The final engine will be a 9,000 rpm turbo engine, has to be to get that kind of speed.

shawnpepper

on another note, I do have a weird engine vibration at 2,000 rpm, i think it's the balancer, probably going to put a fluid damper on it, I'll upload a solid video of driving after ward.

rgauder

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