Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
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Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: TH700r4
Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
Two Mechanics telling me two different things: 1)push the rocker ratio and upgrade the intake/runners/injectors. 2)don't do anything unless upgrading to the FAST computer setup & parts. How can I get the most Naturally aspirated power out of this TPI without changing engines or using nitrous?
Last edited by tedpants; 03-04-2015 at 05:34 PM.
#2
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Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
There are tons of posts on this site that address your question. Use the search function. It works pretty well. Just to get you started: upgrade the exhaust - headers, 2.5 to 3 inch pipe, etc. If you are still running stock injectors, replace them. Contact South Bay Injectors for recommended replacements. Search for the rest. You'll get dizzy reading all of the possibilities. It's pretty much limited by your imagination and your bank account. Good luck.
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
Headers, exhaust, better heads, better intake/runners, bigger cam, bigger injectors.
#5
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Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
Stock computer retuned will handle anything you want for the most part. Make power you need cam heads and new intake design or first tpi setup. Dont waste time with anything stock tpi or bases/runners available unless its a first tpi
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Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: TH700r4
Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
I like the First-TPI unit and combined with Higher ratio rockers and bigger injectors/fuel pressure, I'm told I'll get sizable power. But another mechanic says the ECM won't be able to keep up for 1987. I read the writeup on programming my own PROMs but have no idea if the hardware itself can be adjusted for it. Has anybody tricked out a 1987 like this?
#7
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Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: TH700r4
Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
There are tons of posts on this site that address your question. Use the search function. It works pretty well. Just to get you started: upgrade the exhaust - headers, 2.5 to 3 inch pipe, etc. If you are still running stock injectors, replace them. Contact South Bay Injectors for recommended replacements. Search for the rest. You'll get dizzy reading all of the possibilities. It's pretty much limited by your imagination and your bank account. Good luck.
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#8
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Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: TH700r4
Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
I'm happy with the rubber links and bushings, have new OEM style shocks, decked out the T-Top subframe with UMI connectors and steering brace. Handles great but I don't think I'll go to moly parts until I get over 350 horse
#9
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Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: TH700r4
Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
All on my list, but the better intake is hard to source, I see the "FIRST TPI" and love it, Edelbrock makes siamesed runners with adjustable plates for switching heads!?. Would bigger injectors require more fuel psi?
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Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: TH700r4
Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
UPDATE: I've decided to take apart the engine to determine what the prior owner did during the rebuild. After confirming the camshaft, piston bore & stroke, and cylinder head condition, I want to upgrade or port & polish the heads to improve or upgrade the cam's ability and increase the intake runners and/or manifold. Aside from the work involved, I'm having a hard time sourcing big-tube intake runners and the F.I.R.S.T. tpi intake. These things have just disappeared!?!
#11
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Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
UPDATE: I've decided to take apart the engine to determine what the prior owner did during the rebuild. After confirming the camshaft, piston bore & stroke, and cylinder head condition, I want to upgrade or port & polish the heads to improve or upgrade the cam's ability and increase the intake runners and/or manifold. Aside from the work involved, I'm having a hard time sourcing big-tube intake runners and the F.I.R.S.T. tpi intake. These things have just disappeared!?!
FIRST website is here:
https://www.firstfuelinjection.com
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Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: TH700r4
Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
Thanks OZZ, My 1987 has an old Hypertech chip upgrade in it already. If I put on a FIRST or TPiS Miniram, do I absolutely need the FAST EZ 2.0 setup too? Anybody to reply
#14
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Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
So if you get the FIRST or Miniram, which I would recommend over any of those others at this juncture, ou would only need the controller because they are the MPFI intakes. I think This controller from FAST would work as a controller. It has everthing except the throttle body which you don't need if you get a FIRST or miniram.
Alternatively, and mainly because i would prefer to support members here, I would get this RBOB's EBL Flash tuning at Dynamic EFI. It may even be cheaper.
#15
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Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
the main issue with the FAST controller, is it's for cars that do not have EFI and are going TO efi. You already have it, you're just trying to make it better. Perhaps something like a megasquirt system would work as well.
#16
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Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350
Transmission: TH700r4
Re: Getting the Most Natural Power Out of 1987 L98 Iroc
Made some progress so far this winter. Looking to get road testing and ez-efi learning done in March.
I've finished wiring what I needed, pigtailing some sensors to have two outputs and swapping connections from GM to FAST. It's ugly wiring right now and you'll see in the pics in a couple days. BUT it will start and then idle after warmed up. It's not steady at idle, the tach is pinned to the max, don't care about the c.e.l., and I have a questionable exhaust leak that may be affecting the O-2 response...so header gasket or collector gasket will be my guess for the smoke test this weekend. I'm just excited that it started on the first try.
I'm worried about
1) the throttle body having loose bushings and providing false tps signals
2) interference from my Accel remote ignition coil messing with my tach signal
3) possible vacuum leaks in plenum (didn't replace gaskets yet)
While the Z is up on blocks, I should finally replace the rear sway links/bushings too, I've been saving that for a troubleshooting dead end.
I've finished wiring what I needed, pigtailing some sensors to have two outputs and swapping connections from GM to FAST. It's ugly wiring right now and you'll see in the pics in a couple days. BUT it will start and then idle after warmed up. It's not steady at idle, the tach is pinned to the max, don't care about the c.e.l., and I have a questionable exhaust leak that may be affecting the O-2 response...so header gasket or collector gasket will be my guess for the smoke test this weekend. I'm just excited that it started on the first try.
I'm worried about
1) the throttle body having loose bushings and providing false tps signals
2) interference from my Accel remote ignition coil messing with my tach signal
3) possible vacuum leaks in plenum (didn't replace gaskets yet)
While the Z is up on blocks, I should finally replace the rear sway links/bushings too, I've been saving that for a troubleshooting dead end.
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