New build
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
New build
Ok so from left to right. New motor with stock tray, wrong transmission bolt in one hole, car before motor was pulled, picture of the stock vortec rods, old motor.
Last edited by 2005Impalla; 01-24-2015 at 03:11 AM.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
New oil pump pick up, new valve springs in heads, old dip stick missing some of the bottom of stick, carter carburetor running rich, new motor side pic, new motor side front view
Last edited by 2005Impalla; 01-24-2015 at 03:13 AM.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
After motor was pulled, old damper that was separating, hole for passenger side of block ( It turns and is suction side of pump. The hole goes to left in picture and other side of hole is next to passenger side freeze plug next to it )
Last edited by 2005Impalla; 01-24-2015 at 03:16 AM.
#4
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
Ok so pictures are in no order. The motor is a vortec 350 crate replacement motor for a 96-2000 3/4 ton truck. I have installed a custom comp cam with 214*/224* @0.050 263*/273* .474/.474 Lift 110LSA 106ICL Edelbrock performer EPS vortec intake, Moroso 7QT oil pan with matching summit stock pressure pump. I am reusing the old carburetor which I think is a 750 for now as it is what I have. I am also using the old distributor and water pump for a short time. I don't want to re use these parts but I am on a budget I am lucky I took the old motor out as it has some issues I was un aware of. It only had water in the block, one transmission bolt was the wrong size, it was running rich, choke was forced open, damper was separating, some wires were hacked and not connected well, dip stick was tore up and missing some of the end and so they over filled the motor with oil, there was no water temp sensor, the belts were bad, the radiator is the wrong size, fuel pump mounted next to starter, headers welded to exhaust, header bolts not tight and leaking and the list of things that were wrong or I did not like go on and on. Only major thing I would have been super worried about was the damper the other little stuff would have been figured out very quick if I was driving the car but I have not drove the car more than 4 blocks sense I have bought it.
Last edited by 2005Impalla; 01-24-2015 at 03:17 AM.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
I did not pull the torque converter but it looks like an aftermarket converter. The now motor should be installed soon but it wont be on the road for a few more weeks due to funds. A few things I have ran in too that some people have had issues with I have had some luck with like the hole on the passenger side of the block is drilled and the bolt holes drilled for a normal timing chain cover and was able to use a double roller chain. The old chain that was stock had a lot of play in it and the other new single roller chain I had was just as loose. If I was to get another new crate motor and was carbureting it I would replace the timing cover and chain. The machine work for the heads was expensive at $580 to get my springs to fit and have screw in studs but I now have clearance to safely run .530" lift with .050" clearance before coil bind so .580" lift before coil bind. I don't know how much but the stock valve seals were moved down for more clearance and can except more lift than the springs. The car is a good starter car but is going to need a lot of work after the motor is in and the car is on the road.
Last edited by 2005Impalla; 01-24-2015 at 03:19 AM.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
My neighbor is going to get the motor installed tomorrow for me and the engine compartment cleaned up and I will have to wait tell feb 2 to do any more work on the car after that. At least the motor will finally be in car.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
The car is alive. I still need some parts to drive it like a throttle cable and little misc parts but it runs. I will try to post some picks and see if I can get a video to load later today. I reused the old carter carb that was on the car and am impressed with how responsive it is. Might keep the carb and just tune it a little. Still have some tweaking to do on the motor cuz I just ran it long enough to get it up to temp and had to shut it back down cuz it was almost midnight. Hope to have tabs on it and be driving it a little by next week.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
Thanks guys I was not sure if any one was watching or not haha. I am up loading a video now but its time to head off to work so might not get it up tonight. My carburetor is not running right and I cant get it to run lean enough so I am going to get a new carb tomorrow cuz its an old carter and I want a new holley 670 street avenger anyways. I could tune the carter but the wife is letting me get a carb and I have to get it while she is willing to let me buy parts. For some reason she dose not look at cost as much as how many parts I have bought so I am trying to get the expensive stuff now.
#11
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Re: New build
no matter what carb you get,....your gonna have to "tune it". i personally like holleys, but take your pick.
sounds like a great wife!
take your time picking out a new carb if you go that route. dont be in a hurry.
sounds like a great wife!
take your time picking out a new carb if you go that route. dont be in a hurry.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
Just ordered a 670 street avenger Holley carb Going to take me a little to figure how to up load videos as I have never done it so it might be Monday tell I have one up. I wanted to try a 625 street demon but I am sick of buying things that might work and it says for cams to 220* duration @0.050 and I have 224* on the exhaust. I am betting there talking about intake duration but I know the Holley will work and don't want to spend $325 on a maybe and ya just cant go wrong with a good Holley. I do plan on tuning the carb but I could not afford a tuning kit too so it will have to wait a few more paydays. Hopefully it works ok out of the box and is not too far off. I am not driving the car yet so it does not mater anyways. Still about $500 away from being able to drive it.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
#14
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Re: New build
sounds good, but sounds like the secondaries arent opening right. did you try to adjust them?
i guess i doesnt matter if your getting a new carb anyway, lol. link to new carb?
DP or vac 2nds?
i guess i doesnt matter if your getting a new carb anyway, lol. link to new carb?
DP or vac 2nds?
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
No did not try to tune carb or adjust much. Tried to adjust the idle mixture screws but it is rich no mater what. Most of the smoke is from water being in the exhaust from my neighbor pressure washing the engine compartment before we installed the motor.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
The new carb is a vacuum sec 670 part # Holley 0-80670 just picked it cuz it was a safe choice for my motor. I know it will work good, have good throttle response and support the HP my motor is making.
Last edited by 2005Impalla; 01-30-2015 at 06:47 PM.
#18
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Re: New build
i dont care what anybody says, this a great add on for a vac 2nd holley. makes tuning a carb quicker and easier, IMO. should come on every holley type carb.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-63-1
screw spring changes. PITA.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-63-1
screw spring changes. PITA.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
Ya looked at the adjustable vac sec. With how much I plan on doing to the car I am sure I will be swapping springs quiet a bit. I will probably have to change them after I do the rear gears and again after I rebuild the transmission and install a stall converter. Today I am swapping my alt out for a single wire. For some reason it wont charge. I cant get it to spike and start charging. Its a new alt, the old one fried the regulator and I don't know if something under my dash is open or not cuz the wiring is a mess on this car. Tried putting a light on both wires ( one at a time) to put a load on it and have revved the motor to about 4,000 RPM but it just wont charge. Going to a 1 wire will eliminate this problem. I have let the motor get up to temp about 3 or 4 times now but have not drove it sense the first time after I installed it and ran it around the block. Motor is getting smoother and there is almost no smoke coming from exhaust now. Still have to drain the old oil out, cut my filter oil filter open and inspect it, and check my plugs and valve adjustment. Car is sounding better and better every time I start it. I have 80 LBs of oil pressure when it starts. Idle is high so when choke opens my pressure drops to around 60. Rings have not fully seated yet and timing is a little off but I am waiting to re do my timing tell the new carb is on and I have the fuel mixture were I want it. Going to set my base timing at 10* at 750-800 RPM tell I can drive the car more and play with it. I don't know how much my distributor advances so I want to make sure its not going to over advance at high RPM when its under a load. Right now timing is set my ear and I think is a little retarded from were it needs to be. Will make another video when the other carb is on and I have set the timing were it needs to be.
#20
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Re: New build
yea, thats part of tuning. too many people slap parts together, dont tune, then get mad when it doesnt run right. it takes time and patience. LOTS of things you can do to tune a holley.
ive passed this link on a few times. its pretty informative about timing.
ive passed this link on a few times. its pretty informative about timing.
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
Ok so working a lot of hours so not much time but just out of the box the holey is awesome. Going to get a vacuum gage on Tuesday or Wednesday so I can do timing and idle mixture. Idle mixture is pretty close. I have to adjust the choke idle because it is way too high. My secondary's are not opening very much when I rev motor either. Should they be? Or only under a load? I revved it to about 5K and they barley cracked open.
#22
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
O dam watched a video and answered my question on the secondary's. O man I love the internet. The thing you can learn.
#24
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Car: 86 Z28 T-Top
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: I think 3.73 open dif
Re: New build
K new carb is on. I still have not tuned it yet. I have only adjusted the idle speed. I have to wait to get a vacuum gage and a timing light. I was shorted this check, dam employer is going to add it to my next check in 2 weeks. There messing with my car money dam it. I want to drive my car. Still about a month out from being able to drive it.
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: New build
Vac secondaries will not open just free reving the engine. Engine must be under load for the to open.
This goes for all vac sec. style carbs like the carter, edelbrock or holley vac sec.
Dial in more timing at idle. 10* is NOT enough. You will need somewhere between 14 and 18* at idle w/o vac advance hooked up
This goes for all vac sec. style carbs like the carter, edelbrock or holley vac sec.
Dial in more timing at idle. 10* is NOT enough. You will need somewhere between 14 and 18* at idle w/o vac advance hooked up
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