Bad AC Compressor and Texas
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Burkburnett, TX
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Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7ltr
Transmission: 700r4 with shiftkit
Axle/Gears: LS 4.11
Bad AC Compressor and Texas
Ok so I've been used to driving a vehicle with no AC for a few years now. I recently bought a 1988 Trans am and the AC compressor is going bad. I know they sell AC compressor delete pullys for pretty cheap and they are easy to install. Is there anything I need to know by removing the compressor other than to depressurize the lines?
Thanks for all the help. You guys/gals are great.
Thanks for all the help. You guys/gals are great.
#2
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Location: knoxville tn
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Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 open
Re: Bad AC Compressor and Texas
Ok so I've been used to driving a vehicle with no AC for a few years now. I recently bought a 1988 Trans am and the AC compressor is going bad. I know they sell AC compressor delete pullys for pretty cheap and they are easy to install. Is there anything I need to know by removing the compressor other than to depressurize the lines?
Thanks for all the help. You guys/gals are great.
Thanks for all the help. You guys/gals are great.
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Burkburnett, TX
Posts: 33
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Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7ltr
Transmission: 700r4 with shiftkit
Axle/Gears: LS 4.11
Re: Bad AC Compressor and Texas
I know almost nothing about AC. I told my dad the compressor is leaking oil and he said it could just be o-rings. I ordered a complete o-ring kit for the AC system ($6 with shipping). We are going to replace the o-rings to see if that helps. I have almost no money to work with and a new compressor only being $160 (reman) is a LOT of money for me. It's life though. This is my DD and my backup car is a 1970 postal jeep.
#4
Supreme Member
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Re: Bad AC Compressor and Texas
Could be the o-rings or the condenser might have a leak.
Since the system is empty, pick up a 6mm condenser from a 90-92 model and a ford blue orifice tube. THis will help keep the system cold.
Worst case scenario the leak is in the accumulator/dryer area and you'll need to pull the whole system apart to get to it. I'd tend to beliebve it's an o-ring/seal at one of the connection points or condenser that's in front of the radiator has sprung a leak.
Also, when testing the system, make sure when you pull vacuum on it, it holds for 30-45 minutes. Anything less indicates a leak in the system.
There is a thread on here that deals with swapping out the R4 compressor for a sanden unit. Might be worth looking into.
Since the system is empty, pick up a 6mm condenser from a 90-92 model and a ford blue orifice tube. THis will help keep the system cold.
Worst case scenario the leak is in the accumulator/dryer area and you'll need to pull the whole system apart to get to it. I'd tend to beliebve it's an o-ring/seal at one of the connection points or condenser that's in front of the radiator has sprung a leak.
Also, when testing the system, make sure when you pull vacuum on it, it holds for 30-45 minutes. Anything less indicates a leak in the system.
There is a thread on here that deals with swapping out the R4 compressor for a sanden unit. Might be worth looking into.
Last edited by Ozz1967; 03-01-2015 at 01:21 AM.
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