fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Anyone have experience with end rail spacers? The ones that get placed on the china walls between the intake and block.

I've went through 3 sets of 1206s now. I've just ordered a replacement 1206s3 (steel core 1206s) but I want this to be my last intake gasket replacement.

My intake to heads line up the bolts go in fine. The china walls have a large gap not huge but it's wide (probably 3/8" or so I haven't put the digital caliper on it to measure yet). Even black RTV doesn't want to seal it after several good heat cycles. Always starts off fine for hundred miles or so then it develops a leak. Heads were bought brand new from AFR. Block was bought seasoned from a friend that used it in his mud truck without problems. Intake was used but all things were dropped off at machine shop for checking and everything looked good to them.

Further research shows apparently it's an issue with some of the AFR heads made 2006 and prior which is when I bought mine. Yeah this motor build is taking forever due to multiple job switches, house buying/selling, and kids...

https://www.airflowresearch.com/installation.php

I was thinking about calling AFR and seeing what their end rail kit has in it.

I also found Peterson Fluids makes a decent kit according to other forums. They get secured by roll pins that you drill 2 holes into the block on each wall.
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/engine_breath.html

I haven't been able to find a kit that actually includes taper corners to fill in the triangle gaps nicely between the walls spacers and heads. I figure that should give a better seal than putting a bunch of RTV in that area which could allow oil to wick by eventually and get me back into this same situation.

Ideas?

Damon

Do what AFR recommends. While the 210 and 227 heads might space up the intake by quite a bit, I can tell you than even the milder 180 and 195 heads (and my previous generation 190 heads) all do that to a certain extent. It's how AFR subtly moves things around from their stock position to gain little airflow advantages. Its a method they use to make their heads act a little more like a "tall port" high-flow race head. Squeeze the heads closer to eachother and it forces the intake upward.

Now, while I was able to just use a fatter-than-normal blob of RTV on my end walls to seal it up, 3/16" is a BIG difference. I can well believe a spacer of some kind would be needed.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I don't use the end rails on ANY intake.

I used to use some one of the "ultra" RTV sealers. But I got tired of doing so much work, sqeeeeeezing th etube and all. So nowadays I use "The Right Stuff". Basically the same as "ultra" black except in a can like whipped cream... turn it upside down, push the nozzle, it squirts itself. Being lazy like I am, that's how I like to "do work"; just kinds sit back and watch the work do itself. Life is too short to do unnecessary work, above all for ME to do the work.

Instead, I set the intake on the heads; measure (just an eyeball will do) the gap; take the intake back off and turn it upside down; smear a schmear of sealer on the block and the intake; let it set up for 5 or 10 minutes (about long enough to pop the top off of one of my favorite beverages); lay a bead of sealer on the block about half again as tall as the gap; wait about 30 minutes to an hour (long enough to finish off the beverage and return it to the rental facility, maybe repeat a time or 2); smear another little bit thicker, but still thin, layer on the intake; and set the intake down in the PERFECT position, WITHOUT SLIDING IT; wait about an hour or so (time this EXACTLY: breakfast, lunch, dinner, encounter with enthusiastic member of the other sex, episode of Game of Thrones, etc. ... ); install and tighten intake bolts with sealer on the threads of the 4 center ones on each side.

3/16" is NOTHING, no problem. Ya just need a bead about 5/16" or so tall. Piece o cake. Might want to let it set up a bit extra before setting the intake on it though, maybe ... 2 Game of Thrones or some such.

novaderrik

i'm a big fan of The Right Stuff, as well: it was (and still is)good enough for GM to use to seal millions or engines, transmissions, and differentials on the assembly lines and it's good enough for me.. i follow the instructions on the can and just slam things together as soon as i can after applying it, and other than the rear intake rail on a 95 Suburban, it's never leaked for me..

but 3/16" is a huge gap to fill, i'd get the spacers that AFR recommends...

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Back from the dead.

Might make it back to my house/garage this weekend finally. I emailed AFR here is the response:
So I plan on pulling the front wall gasket and measuring this weekend with my digital caliper... If I can find it. Then I'll decide which kit best fits my needs.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

*shakes head in disbelief*

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Will update after I measure. I figure either way old gaskets have to come off now.

Just sucks car is 300+ miles away from my apartment so unable to work on it at all. Just want this forsaken motor build to be done. Been one problem after another.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

How'd The Right Stuff work out for you?

No measurements required, were there? Just kinda went all together panilessly and trouble-free and WORKED, right?