z28cmr83

Does anyone know the part number for the temp sensor in the water neck and also the part number for the connector? mine is hanging on by a thread.

As for the vacuum sensor, does anyone have a diagram for where the hoses should go? Mine is just acting as a plug it has no hoses attached.

lha1992

I'm doing the water pump, power steering pump an heater core on my 84 along with removing all of the Air pump crap for the emissions an I just pulled all that stuff. The coolant temperature sensor I can get a part number for you tomorrow when I go back out there to start cleaning an Cleaning.

The vacuum sensor is actually apart of the air pump for the emissions. I'm pulling all that stuff off because part of the sensor broke haha.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The TVS thermostatic vacuum switches are color coded for opening temperature. Look up your application on rockauto.com .

Damon

Check out the Carburetor section of the board for vacuum line routing on a CC-QJet system.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

You should be able to buy the connector from your local parts store, just bring it in. Also, Rock Auto should have pictures in their system when you search there.

z28cmr83

Thanks, my sensor is beyond recognition though, can someone post a photo of what it should look like that i could bring to the part store lol

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

What car

z28cmr83

84 L69, I would like to replace that emissions canister too, does anyone know what part that is, im really trying to freshen things up before they fail.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Sensor to the left of the pic is the coolant temp sensor. Comes with a new connector of an entirely different design in the box with it. Solder & heatshrink the wires together; DO NOT try to use butt splices.

Other one is the EFE TVS. Works the heat riser valve between the right exh manifold and the Y-pipe. Originally had a big rubber molded connector thing on the 2 lines, which I don't see in your pic.

The UFO thing in the bottom center of the pic is the canister purge control valve.

You need a new upper rad hose. NOW.

z28cmr83

Thanks for the info but especially if its a new design ill never know if im getting the right part unless someone can confirm the numbers... I dont wanna wind up buying a temp sensor for the fan or gauge by acccident.

z28cmr83

Also does anyone have an emissions system diagram or a link to the correct post? I clearly have to go over mine

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Just ask for the part, by its correct name, for a 84 L69. Its name is "coolant temp sensor". Not "fan switch", not "temp gauge sending unit", etc.

A brief search of this forum for "vacuum line diagrams" turned up this cryptically-named post. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...iagrams-i.html

joeld

The vacuum switch on the right is OEM #14007803. The coolant switch from NAPA is TS10075, the pig tail wiring from NAPA is TSC200.

Joel

gt4373

z28cmr83

Thanks everyone took the advice on the upper radiator hose too. The old sensor was pretty worn out. Can anyone comment on the instructions below regarding the

z28cmr83

Continued from above.

Thanks everyone took the advice on the upper radiator hose too. The old sensor was pretty worn out. Can anyone comment on the instructions below regarding the Instruction that the wire coloring doesnt matter for the new install? I listened to that cause I had nothing else to go on, how is that possible? If this was installed incorrect will i get a check engine code or does this sensor only kick in for an overheat scenario?
Also i can not understand the vaccume diagram and I realize that is my fault, can anyone post a photo of where the 2 hoses from the vaccume plug in the water head go?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Right, the wire color doesn't matter; the sensor is nothing but a variable resistor (resistance changes with temperature), and polarity doesn't make any difference. Unlike a diode or any such semiconductor, it reads the same both ways.

Not sure what's unclear about the vac diag. One line comes from the tee off of the PCV line (it's tee'd more than once); one line goes to the EFE valve. Pretty straightforward really.

z28cmr83

I guess i just dont have the T- connectors so its throwing me off... Im looking for an empty spot for it to plug into.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Time for a trip to yer favorite parts store...

Follow off of port "F" of the carb. The 1st tee wants to have 2 3/8" lines at right angles to each other, and a smaller port in another direction. That one goes to a 2nd tee with all 3 a small size.

You can find all that stuff hanging on cards back in the PCV valve area at any parts store.

z28cmr83

Im re posting this question here because its relevent to this repair:

A few years ago I changed my thermostat to 160 and added a manual toggle switch for my fan... Worst thing I could have done, the car could never warm up properly. I finally got a chance to change it back and my research revealed that a 195 degree thermostat with a duralast sw500 and ac delco PT 308 wire.

The fan isn't coming on until approx 240 degrees (according to the gauge). I am trying to figure out if my fan switch install was successful. Is there any other backup emergency fan switch that exists if the car reaches a certain temp that is kicking in?

It should also be noted that i also replaced the coolant temp sensor in the water neck as well, which is throwing off my trouble shooting, could this have anything to do with anything?

I never remember my gauge going even a hair above 220 on the gauge with my old setup and now it is right at 240.

Im just trying to get back to normal.
Is this a factory setup?

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

That switch should engage at 225* or so. It's possible your gauge is off.

If you have dual fans, the first fan is ECm controlled, the second is Switch controlled. There is no backup after the switch. That's it.

I'd run a IR temp gun on the T-stat housing when your car gauge is sitting at that constant 240* and see what it's actually running.