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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
My 1991 305 TPI auto (260,000km) has been running rough on me for a while,
For the last year that I have owned the car it has had intermittent issues with starting, idle, very poor fuel economy, running rich and I would like to get to the bottom of it.
There may be other underlying issues such as vacuum leaks that I am unaware of so I'm up for suggestions.
About 6 months ago it started to start poorly and idle so low it would stall or nearly stall without giving it extra gas just to raise the RPMs.
I ran the whole sea-foam treatment which kept the problem at bay for 2 months, then it returned, I did the same thing, then it went away for two months, now its back.
However there is some exceptions, the fuel economy was always bad (literally 7-10 MPG) And I drive this car gently I do not beat it up or do burn outs, nothing that justifies that loss of fuel. And my 5 days a week short 10 minute commute will burn 130+ Litres of fuel in a month.
Lets go into detail in regards to the issues, they have been slightly different so I will explain, except the starting issues which have been fluctuating.
Starting Issues: Almost always from cold start, upon turning the key the RPMs will go up to about 2000 then drop down to 800 or lower nearly causing a stall, and then fluctuating up to 1500 where it will run "normally". However if I had already started the car within the last half hour it starts right up to 1500 then slowly falls to 1200-1300 as it should, so its partly due to a cold start.
Previously the RPMs would drop to 800 or lower at stop lights and frequently stall, now it only falls to 1000 and sounds weak, but no stalling anymore, while driving around while coasting the RPMs will sound unhealthy and fluctuate from 2000-1400.
On the highway I have experienced random acts of hesitation where the RPMs will drop a little and unnatually, however other times will perform just fine. I used to get a code 32 (Bad egr, temp circuit short, something else) on any highway trip longer than 15 minutes, usually at high RPMs.
Its like the engine forgets how much fuel it needs on start up after sitting overnight, or the fuel pressure isnt enough at start.
However the car shows no signs of a bad starter, and I don't believe this could be a bad fuel pump either.
I should add that after driving around it smells like gas on the driver side behind the door, but the gas cap holds enough pressure to whoosh if taken off, and at 50-70 km the coasting idle can sound bubbly, especially while slowing down, Always while slowing down, like imagine the sound of engine brakes, but in the terms of the engine, a lot quieter, and more sloshy if these words make sense, it just doesn't sound like it should slow down like that.
I've read that a bad egr valve, or bad egr solenoid can cause some of these issues and I have them on order to be replaced, (Including the 4.9L caddy solenoid mod for the TPI engine) However I would like to know what else could be causing this, vacuum lines, fuel line, fuel pump, or if its simply just the bad EGR.
Looking forward to your guys thoughts,
Thanks once again,
-Bryce
Last edited by GeneralIesrussi; 12-04-2015 at 01:42 PM.
Reason: New info
Check vaccum leak first. Borrow a fog machine or if you know someone that vapes that will work too, blow the smoke into the throttle body with the throttle open and if smoke leaks out everywhere, there you go.
Check fuel pressure at the line on the passenger side. There will be a fitting for a fuel pressure checker. Autozone sells/ rents them out. should be about 41 psi on running condition. Expect it to be low if you just turn the key to the ON position when the fuel pump sounds.
Check the tps sensor on the throttle body with a multimeter. Should read .54 volts. You want the top two wires.
Check vaccum leak first. Borrow a fog machine or if you know someone that vapes that will work too, blow the smoke into the throttle body with the throttle open and if smoke leaks out everywhere, there you go.
Check fuel pressure at the line on the passenger side. There will be a fitting for a fuel pressure checker. Autozone sells/ rents them out. should be about 41 psi on running condition. Expect it to be low if you just turn the key to the ON position when the fuel pump sounds.
Check the tps sensor on the throttle body with a multimeter. Should read .54 volts. You want the top two wires.
Do you have codes? If so, what are they.
I will check both of those things and investigate renting the fuel preassure checker, I will follow the guide linked to check the tps and iac aswell, i have only ever got a code 32 which is (bad egr, and two other things) Am I hearing correctly that my car should be idling at around 450RPM and drive a 600RPM because this car has never idled lower than 1200rpm at its "healthy idle" lower than that always sounded like it was going to stall for me
Factory idle is said to be between 600-800 in drive. However, so many people have issues where the tach. reads high, so its hard to tell what it's actually idling at. Mine idles at about 900-1k.
No kidding, well that's news to me, There cars run healthy that low? And don't sound like they are stalling? That might explain my 8MPG. Well I don't think my tach could be off by 600 RPM at any given time, it normally shifts up gears at 3800 RPM does that sound correct for stock cars?
Given this new information, if I re calibrate the Idle speed do you think that will help resolve some of the unevenness?
It still doesn't explain why it starts poorly from a cold start or why the problem comes and goes, and what exactly Does explain the poor cold start because I know something is causing that.
"It still doesn't explain why it starts poorly from a cold start or why the problem comes and goes, and what exactly Does explain the poor cold start because I know something is causing that."
It DOES explain that. The engine and computer need to know where to set the min idle at startup on cold starts/warm stats and the position of the TPS. Take the IAC out and clean all the ports and passages out. You'd be amazed to see all the carbon build up
Ahhh yes that does make sense, What would you recommend to use to clean the carbon out with, any special cleaners or brushes, I just want to do all this right.
Lets say the TPS and IAC readings are off and poorly calibrated right now (which it appears they totally are) could the ECM be over and undershooting its calculations for fuel mixures etc which results in the poor start
Thank you again for the explanation, now that you mention it, I don't think i have an Intake air temperature sensor, should it be at the front right on the back of the two snorkel intake that goes into the throttle body? on the driver's side facing the engine bay? I have a bolt in there and I thought thats what it would be, but I couldn't find a wire to go to it
Last edited by GeneralIesrussi; 07-29-2015 at 12:49 PM.
Reason: typo
So essentially, I should check all those sensors, clean them, and possibly replace some if they are not providing proper readings, will I just be able to google how to check them one by one? And are you saying that I could still have a bad/ dirty O2 sensor as well? I cant remember if there is one or two on this car, there should be one on the drivers side slightly down the exhaust manifold if I'm correct
Another important piece of information that might be insightful.
My engine runs really hot, when you open the hood after a short drive its a whoosh of hot air, and you cannot keep a finger on the plenum, but the coolent temp reading in the gauges reads normal.
Last edited by GeneralIesrussi; 07-29-2015 at 12:55 PM.
Reason: Added information
Ahhh yes that does make sense, What would you recommend to use to clean the carbon out with, any special cleaners or brushes, I just want to do all this right.
Lets say the TPS and IAC readings are off and poorly calibrated right now (which it appears they totally are) could the ECM be over and undershooting its calculations for fuel mixures etc which results in the poor start
Yes, its trying to set min idle and TPS position. The two work together and are very sensitive. Might take a few try's, but it works.
The easiest way to clean the passages is to remove the TB,and remove the IAC. Spray carb cleaner through the passages real good and the blow dry. You might want to take off the IAC Housing. You should still have the coolant hose hooked up so anti freeze will leak from the hose. Unless the hose was eliminated from your setup
So essentially, I should check all those sensors, clean them, and possibly replace some if they are not providing proper readings, will I just be able to google how to check them one by one? And are you saying that I could still have a bad/ dirty O2 sensor as well? I cant remember if there is one or two on this car, there should be one on the drivers side slightly down the exhaust manifold if I'm correct
The coolant temp sender on the front of the intake will be easy. Just unplug it, set the multi-meter on ohms and read the chart.
For example...At 70* you should see 3400 ohms on the meter
The IAT will be harder to check. Its under the rear of the Plenum. You'll have to remove the plenum for that.
It still all sounds to me like Vacuum leaks. Check all the runners/plenum/intake runner connections. You can knock all this out in a couple of hours. But do it mythodically so you don't have to re-do something. If ya know what I mean
Plenum/runner/TB gasket set is cheap. Get a Fel-Pro set.
Last edited by Bob88GTA; 07-29-2015 at 01:37 PM.
Reason: IAT instead of IAC
Wow sounds like I got quite a shopping list, this will be quite the learning experience for me as I have never taken apart the tpi setup, and have a lot of learning to do, since Im in canada and lord co loves to charge $120 for a $60 item in the U.S. do you have a list of things I should order to avoid the on the spot payment to lordco, I swear a $100 fix down there is $300 with the 0.75 exchange rate,
And to clean the parts I only need to spray the carb cleaner on? No scrubbing etc?
So.
Plenum gasket set,
IAC Valve,
O2 sensor,
TPS sensor,
IAC sensor,
CTS sensor,
IAT sensor, (I don't think I have this?)
Am I missing anything,
can I avoid buying any for now, or do them all at once, shipping is 2-3 weeks so I order ahead of time.
And lastly Are there enough guides on the web here and TGO to get them through replacing all these (I have a haynes book too) without me having to bug you or another thread a bunch,
Thank you very much for your help so far Bob88GTA
Upon googling the IAT, I definitely do not have one installed right now, and I am unsure if the wire is simply cut somewhere or just tucked away, I dont know where to trace it from to see where it goes If it is still there, also I heard the TPI have CTS sensors for the IAT sensor and should be replaced with V6 IAT sensor which measures air temp, (http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=24)
And keep in mind my engine runs really hot.
Last edited by GeneralIesrussi; 07-29-2015 at 01:27 PM.
Reason: Add info
You can save some money by checking a few of the sensors.
The TPS
The CTS
The IAT (if you have one)
The O2 should be replaced
Check the EGR for operation
Check the EGR Solenoid for proper function
The TPS, you want a nice steady no breaks in reading all the way to and from ~5.0v down to minimum of ~.3 ish
The IAC Pintle should be cleaned with a nice soft brush. Avoid carb/solvent cleaner on it. It's actually a stepper motor inside. Us a dab of fine oil when reassembling. Theres threads on here to do ALL of this. Just get friendly and intimate with the SEARCH button, it really works!
Find a Factory Service Manual for your car. IT IS THE BIBLE. Between it and the guys on here, you can get this all figured out. Just be patient!
Thank you very much, I will try to investigate as soon as possible and will be back with results at some point, I have many directions to go now, and lots to do.
None of this is hard. If it's not your DD, you can take it all down to the manifold and replace the gaskets if you got leaks. If you intake manifold is leaking antifreeze at the head mating surface, you mightjust want to replace that too.
Also forgot to mention....being that it will be apart, check into some new Bosch III Injectors from SouthBay on here. Really good price and a good injector. That in itself will cure a lot of issues. Check on a Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator while you're looking at injectors Mine ran like a new car again. I'm the original owner and after 25 years, they made a huge difference.
I don't know your budget or your mechanical skills but all of this is a walk in the park. The parts mentioned above is all under $400.
And when you re-assemble everything, it will all be clean and tight.
On the minimum air idle screw, do you still have a metal push in cover on it? It's on the backside of the throttle in front of the cables.
The little screw that sticks out to stop the throttle from going any further back, the little torques screw in there does not have any cover on it, I'm assuming it was lost at some point
Did you mess with it when you tryed. The TPS/IAC procedure? It probebly needs to be backed out after disconnecting the IAC when you start that procedure. If it aint. Backed down to around 500 RPM, you'll never get it all set
Did you mess with it when you tryed. The TPS/IAC procedure? It probebly needs to be backed out after disconnecting the IAC when you start that procedure. If it aint. Backed down to around 500 RPM, you'll never get it all set
I tried to do the IAC adjustment but once I lowered the RPMs to 500-600 it started to chug along and sound like it was going to die, and any lower and it did die and wouldnt start up unless a raised the RPMs again, so I'm unsure what to do, at 450RPMs the car will definitely stall, and after it does can I just start it back up or do I have to reconnect the IAC then disconnect it while the car is on? What should I do? doesnt 450 sound really low, it is at the bottom of the RPM gauge after all
Edit: I did the IAC adjustment and settled for an idle RPM of 800 while the IAC was off, because any lower and the car sounded like it was going to stall, reconnected the IAC, the car idled at 1000 firm and I took it for a 20 minute drive, the RPMs were consistantly lower, 1000 at stop idle, 1500 for 30km coast, 1800 for 30km with gas, 2500 for 50km with gas, 3800 for highway 90km. Not sure what I should have but those were what I got, I don't know how everyone elses car or how they can idle that low because 1000 RPMs sounds weak in this car, I will upload a video to link it to show how it sounds,
could a vacuum leak or bad egr affect my idle so I couldnt do the IAc adjustment as directed?
Sorry about the loud shift sounds, At the beginning it is idling at a stop in "drive" at 1000 RPMs, then 1200 at park, and 2500 at 50km and 950-1000 when stopping at a stop sign, other than that the RPMs were as described above, not sure if within normal range, you guys can tell me.
Last edited by GeneralIesrussi; 07-30-2015 at 12:03 AM.
Reason: Test
Have you always had this car? Could someone have had moved the screw before you and adjusted it wrong? What reading did you ever get on the tps sensor? Sorry If i missed any information, I just skimmed.
Have you always had this car? Could someone have had moved the screw before you and adjusted it wrong? What reading did you ever get on the tps sensor? Sorry If I missed any information, I just skimmed.
I have owned this car for almost one year now, and was in the previous owner's possession for 5 years,
It may have likely been adjusted before, I won't have access to a multimeter for a few days, I just wanted to try to quickly to the IAC adjustment first. So I have Not doen the TPS adjustment yet, I thought you needed the IAC right first.
My problem is It tells me to set my cars idle to a "healthy" 450 RPM before doing the TPS adjustment, except I cannot make it anywhere near there, lets say I do the TPS adjustment and it gets put in the proper parameters, Can I then go back and lower the minimum air to lower and re-adjust then. Anyone know why my car wants to stall in the range they want me to put it at, the linked guide doesnt say what to do in this situation.
Does anyone's 305 third gen sound like its not going to stall or choke out at 500 RPM or is this some problem on my end?
Last edited by GeneralIesrussi; 07-30-2015 at 02:08 PM.
Reason: added info
OK, if your car does not have any vacuum leaks, is tuned up, and runs relatively good, you should be able to bring that screw down to where the car sounds like it's going to die. Then turn the car off and plug the IAC in and do the TPS. You really need the Multimeter to do this.
As far as a healthy 450, that's to be determined. Mine went right down and just about died as it turned, but it did stay running. I am STOCK, with 9th injector delete and cooling fan set point lowered.thats it.
Good to know some more detail, given that I tuned it for a 1000 RPM idle, would I still be able to do the TPS adjustment accurately? Or do i have to re-adjust the IAC to an unhealthy 700 and Then tune the TPS, I might have a vacuum leak, is the only way to test for it a fog machine/ecig as mentioned earlier, if I can do the TPS adjustment and other things suggested here including replace the plenum gaskets should I then relower the IAC later?
Also when I start the car up now with the lower idle it sputters more than before, like a high pitched bleheheheh while cranking, a rather unappealing sound, it used to make it when it didnt start right away, now with the low rpm it does it every time
Its time to update this old thread with lots of new info. Big news being THE TACH WAS OUT, so as for the original high idle that can be scrapped, However I have replaced many things, taken this car to a shop, and YET i still have some issues that I cannot figure out and are decreasing my car's drivability.
So back to basics, whats been done?
Replaced/fixed:
New EGR Valve
New EGR Solenoid (With correct cadillac equivalent) (Old one confirmed working as well)
New O2 sensor
New Standard Motor products IAC valve
Corrected Timing
Entire new intake system gaskets
Cleaned the entire throttle body, plenum and runners
Things I have tested:
IAC Functionality (Seems to be working correctly) However this is suspect
TPS functionality (Perfect results)
Fuel pressure to fuel rail (Factory spec results [42psi?])
EGR valve and solenoid functionality (Seems fine)
Fog machine fog tested for intake vacuum leaks and carb cleaner test (No leak found)
THE CURRENT ISSUES
RPM Gauge is out, I was told by the shop it idles at about 600, so on my gauge that is about 1200, its a simple resistor replacement, I will do this after I get it to run correctly.
Poor fuel economy, I swear I must still be running rich.
WITH THE RPM GAUGE BEING INCORRECT IN MIND I WILL GIVE MY RPM GAUGE READINGS AS I SEE THEM, EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE IN REALITY ABOUT HALF THAT
Very poor start after sitting for 30+minutes, I do wait for the fuel pump to prime, then when I crank it quickly fires up to about 1000 (actually 500 or so) then immedialtly stumbles back down to zero and dies, after sitting for 30+ minutes this will happen 2-3 times before firing right up and climbing to 2000 (1000 actually) quickly and holding there until i shift into drive, sometimes the car will crank and crank then stumble up to 1200 (actually 600) like rererererbluhbluhbluh then idle.
HOWEVER if i was just driving the car for (5 mins or so) and shut it off, and start it up, it will crank then immediately jump to 1200 (600) where it should be, so the way i describe it, its like the engine doesnt get given the right fuel/air mixture on startup after sitting for a short period of time. This is quite an awful problem and is not only wearing on my starter, it also gives this beautiful car a bad reputation for being hard to start and is just plain bad.
More issues
The RPM gauge will stick SOMETIMES usually only when it idles high at 2000-2200 (1000) and I shut it off, when i turn the power back on it will quickly fall below 0 again, but its strange (and maybe related?)
MORE RPM ISSUES (Fun fun)
When the car is driven around (Usually when cold, BUT NOT ALWAYS)
The RPMS will fluctuate randomly +/- 100-200 RPMS and you can hear it surging, and even when starting up the lights dim and get brighter while this is happening, it sounds unhealthy in general. While doing average 50km/h driving it will fluctuate up and down from about 2200 (1100) to 2500 (1250) and when I am coming to a stop the RPMS almost always drop (looks like too fast of a drop) to 1000 rpm (500) and sometimes (usually when cold) sounds like it is about to stall, however since I have done my repairs (listed above) it has not stalled yet. Im convinced all of these symptoms with the exception of the incorrect gauge, are all related to something.
Now THE SUSPECTS
-These are thing things i have been told could be causing these, you guys and maybe point me in the right direction.
Faulty coolent temp sensor for the ecm, would cause ecm to think the engine is cold and therefore dump too much fuel in.
Bad ECM, poor or wrong interpretation of info given from sensors, somehow resulting in
symptoms.
Oil pressure sensor (someone mentioned this but im not sure what it could cause)
That Standard motor products IAC modules don't work in these cars right and I need to use AC delco ones due to pintle length or something.
Still broken IAC to cause surging.
I have taken this car to a shop and still yet they could not recreate my symptoms or diagnose them, so maybe TGO can pull through on this one with the magic answer, or at least some ideas to try.
Hey, welcome back. Been wondering what happened to you.
I got some ideas for you and maybe a few answers. I will highlight my answers in RED to a few of your questions.
"These are thing things i have been told could be causing these, you guys and maybe point me in the right direction.
Faulty coolent temp sensor for the ecm, would cause ecm to think the engine is cold and therefore dump too much fuel in. True, it will be very rich, just dumping fuel, well not really dumping but in a "open loop" configuration
Bad ECM, poor or wrong interpretation of info given from sensors, somehow resulting in
symptoms. Possible
Oil pressure sensor (someone mentioned this but im not sure what it could cause)Oil pressure switch and Fuel pump Relay work together on starting the engine.
That Standard motor products IAC modules don't work in these cars right and I need to use AC delco ones due to pintle length or something. True, but not all are bad. I use AC Delco
Still broken IAC to cause surging. Imagine you holding an air line with a trigger spayer on it and constantly pressing the trigger releasing air over and over. That is what your BAD iac is doing, searching for the right amount to let into the engine. the pintle is moving in and out searching for the sweet spot or just broke in one spot. On cold start up, the pintle is fully retracted letting in air to the engine. Once it starts to warm up, the pintle starts to close against the port in the TB
I have taken this car to a shop and still yet they could not recreate my symptoms or diagnose them, so maybe TGO can pull through on this one with the magic answer, or at least some ideas to try."
Lastly, I know you don't want to here this, but new injectors have amazing results to remidy a lot of these issues.
PSS: Lastly, have you checked out your distributor?
Hello again Bob88GTA, I really appreciate your help,
Do you think you could give me a direction to in terms of what to buy or test, because I don't really have a way of testing for any of those specific issues, I can invest some money in some new rockauto parts, and report back with results when I put them in.
Could a bad oil pressure switch cause the poor start or would it cause a no start condition?
Another question is i never did find the wiring for an IAT sensor on the front intake, would that play into my problem, or just an unrelated sensor delete?
Furthermore, this car came factory with the VATS security, however it nor my key fob have ever worked since owning the car, I thought you had to burn a new prom chip to delete VATS, so maybe I have a custom chip?
Thanks again for the replies, I just want to be able to drive this thing without checking the RPM gauge every few seconds, that'll be the day lol
*Have your Ignition Control Module tested at the auto parts store. Have them run several tests. It may pass the first couple, but could be breaking down when it gets warm/hot.
* Do a fuel system pressure injector leakdown test with a fuel pressure gauge attached to the port on the fuel rail. Injectors can leak down after shutdown and flood the cylinders. Also, bad injectors may not be atomizing the fuel as the should= bad performance. Search on here for the procedure; real easy.
*Check for vacuum leaks again..check the line running over to the vacuum ball in the front drivers fender. And if you have cruise, check where it Ts to the unit. (same line)
Bad OPS may cause a no-start. forget that for now, it starts and runs
Check under the air inlet tubes for the IAT; it has one.
Coolant Temp Sensor is in the front of the intake; 2 prong plug. at 70*, it should read 34-3500ohms.I'll paste the chart again
On the VATS, your fine. Yes you can have it deleted though a chip re-burn or do the VATS delete with the resistors. Don't worry about it for now.
I have access to a brand new ICM that I can simply swap in, and I researched the fuel pressure leakdown test, Some say its okay to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and look for a change over 20 minutes, and other say to pull the injectors and fuel rail out and test that way, furthermore some also say that if you pull them out often you can cause a leak during re-installation and the o-rings should be replaced each time. Would the first test be enough in my case because from how its described I should definitely have leaking injectors because it perfectly matches my poor start condition.
If this is the case, is there someone/somewhere I can take my injectors to have them rebuilt to remedy this issue?,
I will check those areas for leaks once again, would gas from a small propane torch be sufficient?
And as for the IAT I have the spot for one on the snorkel however the hole is taken up by a plug bolt, is there another anywhere?
Lastly, to measure resistance for the CTS I should first measure the temp of the block? or should I expect the 34-3500ohms on the cold motor itself.
I'll get to some of these fixes after your next reply,
thanks again
The leakdown testwill be fine at this point, may be time to get some Bosch IIIs from Southbay Fuel Injectors. Ther're on here. Do. The CTS when cold, its easier,just use outside ambient temp asyour starting point. The IAT, no I don't believe there is another place on it. You could try the new ECM see what happens....can't hurt.
Didnt know injectors could be so reasonably priced, i will be buying a set of those 19lb bosch IIIs soon and make sure I install them very carefully because a lot of people seem to easily install them wrong so they end up leaking too, i'll test that CTS sensor as soon as I can as well, i'll also do a fuel injector leak down test before buying the injectors just in case, but i do have a question about that, they say to crimp the return line from the fuel rail, will this be easy to find, and is it rubber because you obviously dont crimp metal lines. I'll probably order a new ecm if none of the above fixes remedy the issue. I would get to all these sooner if i wasnt working 6 days a week right now with it being rainy and during most days lol, wish I had a garage
Haven't checked the CTS yet, or done the leakdown test. But I figured I would go ahead and order those new injectors, at 260,000 some bosch III's should help wake the car up. Anyways, the car has taken on a whole new demeanor as of this morning. It starts horribly, way worse than before, not sure if its just because of the cold or the injectors somehow leak more, but i'll describe it and you can tell me if its all symptomatic of leaking injectors. So, here's how it is after the car has been sitting for 20+ minutes, the car will turn over then start right away and either go right up to 2000 (RPM gauge off) and quickly fall to 0 and die, or grumbly roughly up to 1000 and quickly die, the only way to keep it running is to hold my foot down on the gas a little to hold the RPM at 1500-2000, but if I let my foot off it will grumble roughly and quickly die, shifting it into gear will usually cause it to die immediately because my foot has to come off the gas, and if i take my foot off it will die. The only way to get it running idle it at 1500 manually with my foot on the gas for about 3 minutes to (Clear out excess gas? or what) then once it can hold itself at 1500 on its own it runs and drives perfectly. and if i shut it off after getting it to idle on its own it will start perfectly and idle perfectly. This is making the car not only not drivable but also embarrassing because I have to repeatedly start my loud car 5-6 times each time i want to take it anywhere. tomorrow i'll go get my multimeter and a thermometer and test the CTS like you suggested, the injectors are 2 weeks away.
Se inconsistency issues continue with the car starting the first try on a cold start this morning, however it was accompanied by a strange noise which has happened before in the same circumstances however, not commonly. A video of this noise can be seen Here, and the sound is coming from the passenger side front part of the engine. And the idel was surging uncontrollably up and down about 100 RPMS either way, this can be seen Here. And even more strange is how this surging is not affected by how much throttle it is given, this can be seen Here. The RPM being raised up to 2000 and 2500 was me using the gas pedal, however you can see and hear how it still surges even while I do that. So i'm not sure what these tell us but I know that if you rolled one of these new off the assembly line it would be doing that so surely something is amiss and I would like to fix it, and I figured you guys would be my best hope to solve these, thanks again.
-Bryce
PS Can I get an admin to rename this thread somehow, the title no longer reflects my current issues.
Finally found the problem a few months ago and wanted to report back, The problem came from my ECM, it gave out the false code 32 and caused all my fuel mixture problems, it combine with all my new parts has resulted in not one poor start or stall since the new one was installed!
I should still say that the strange noise coming from my dash is isloated to only cold days during the winter, and in the summer I have a random ticking sound coming from the same place in my dash, both are probably related and are both equally annoying, I will report back once my problem is finally resolved
07-28-2015, 11:02 PM
