apie2546

Hey everyone,

Well I've finally decided this is the last summer without ac. Driving 7 hours in 100 degree heat is awful. Anyway, I wanted to know if there was any tips putting 134A in a 12 system. I am replacing every component of the AC system (compressor knocked last time I checked with a blown seal). I'm changing all o rings and seal.

So I wanted to know if there is any special parts I can buy for 12 to 134A systems. When my car was retrofitted 134A blew the compressor seal so I want to ensure my ac is set. Also I will not be filling up with 12 because I prefer the availability of 134A

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

I bought the whole kit from RockAuto. Compressor, dryer, orfice tube, and a new hose set for $290.00 to my door. The plan is to flush the condensor with the flush and blow dry. Then pull a vacuum down and charge with 134.

Now I just have to do it. It does no good sitting in the hatch well!

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Skip the R-134a. Since it has already been converted to run that refrigerant, fill it with ES-12a. Much colder and lower pressures.

RBob.

apie2546

That was my first thought but it is not an option for this repair

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Not sure why, ES-12a isn't R12. It is a R-134a replacement. I'm running it in my '92 with great results. With the exception of the orifice tube the A/C system is entirely factory original. IIRC, I changed the orifice tube to the red one.

RBob.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I am running R152a in my 97 Express van. .057" Orange front orifice, stock replacement rear expansion valve and even running March Performance 25% underdrive pulleys will blow air into the high 30°F range with the fan speed cranked up on high on a 105°F day. Gets so cold it starts to frost the accumulator before cycling the clutch off.

apie2546

It is more cost effective to add the 134A as my friend had a ton of bottles that just gave to me so I can use it. It may not be as cool but this is mostly for highway driving anyway