TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

A local machine shop would look it over for you b4 you spend that money.

UltRoadWarrior9

The money has already been spent... I plan to give my local machine shop good parts to start with.

Delays due to bad parts would **** me off to the extreme once I hand my bottom end parts off to the machine shop.
I see enough of bad parts when logging hours during my day job as auto tech, and it's getting worse... I know bad/non-spec parts are returned all the time. And when they're returned, those parts are put on the top shelf, ready to ship to the next sucker. I ain't one of 'em. Situation pisses me off, but I'm in no hurry either.

UltRoadWarrior9

Here's a nice video with high quality audio (not a cell phone) of a 4th Gen Pontiac using a XFI292 with a LT1 383. Dated 2014:

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I'd imagine those marks are where the jigs and machining equipment had to hold onto the crank in order to actually machine it. Let us know what they tell you.

UltRoadWarrior9

I will. Crank arrived to them on Jan 6th. Still awaiting word back...

UltRoadWarrior9

Been thinking about the induction system for a long time... I finally decided on a single plane EFI intake made by RHS: http://www.racingheadservice.com/rhs...licationshtml/.
Will mate an Edelbrock 3848 Elbow to it, and an LS1 style 90mm throttle body, part # 3869.

UltRoadWarrior9

Purchased the RHS Single Plane Intake, part#12903 from Ebay for $162 + shipping. Edelbrock 3848 elbow for another $130. Some pics...

Sidenote: Scat is sending a "new crankshaft" to replace the original with previous 'deep scuff mark' issue on the crank snout, as previously documented.

Some pics of upper engine (dream stage). 11" from bottom of intake to very top of the 3848 elbow...:

UltRoadWarrior9

Got the 2nd forged crank back from Scat. Looked much better than the first crankshaft. This one has marks as well, but at least they're even all around the snout. So I started pre-assembly again, getting the bottom end ready for a few machine shop services.
In this pic I have the 2 crankshaft keys installed. Then installed the double roller timing chain gearset. Timing marks lined up and rotated. I wish I could install the rods and pistons, but machine shop has to bore out the cylinders and do a few other things before I do a final assembly of the bottom end. So far I can say I am pleased with the Chevy Performance Parts '880' block. It is clearanced for stroker crank and also the double roller timing chain.
I believe I still need the bronze cam bushing that fits behind the cam sprocket... I'll avoid the cam roller bearing out of fear that if it fails, I'd have alot of metal pieces floating around.

UltRoadWarrior9

At this point I'm interested to see if the $350+ timing cover will fit. I decided to pay for it because I can change a cam/timing chain and advance retard the crank by +/- 4deg without oil pan interference/removal.

UltRoadWarrior9

Here I've got an issue with the ARP cam sprocket bolts. They're too tall for this timing cover.

UltRoadWarrior9

Some other pics, while I'm in the garage today.

From the rear of the engine. No rear cam plug yet. RMS adapter in place awaiting seal.

UltRoadWarrior9

More dreaming. Pics of intake and bottom end, without cylinder heads, just for fitment... Real close to sending the block to the machine shop for some work and advice. AFR210 cylinder heads after that....

obeymybird

iTrader: (4)

Shouldn't be long and you get to bring that bad boy to life cant wait to see your HP numbers I have been wanting to build a 383 just about the same as yours keep us updated...

91 zeee

Man, we are doing almost the same thing here. Against my better judgement, I decided to build a 383 TPI too. I bought the Summit 880 block, Eagle rotating assy, comp xfi 268 cam, AFR 195 heads, Comp pro magnum 1.6 roller rockers, Arizona speed and marine runners, Edelbrock tpi base, etc....
Should be starting it up in the next couple weeks. I'll let ya know how it is....
Anyway, thought I'd thow this out...I bought the ebl p4 flash. If you haven't seen it, you outta check it out. I played with it before I pulled the old motor....it is bad ***.. easy to work with and simple.
What are you doing for exhaust?

UltRoadWarrior9

Good luck on the startup of your new build! Feel free to post here if you'd like.

Yes, I've seen the EBL and it looks good and nice to see it is heavily supported here in the DIY PROM section. I currently have the Moates APU1 PROM Emulator which I intend to use with my current 1227165 ECM to get this engine running. This 383 project of mine is gonna eventually teach me about tuning. I'm into electronics, so it's not at all intimidating.

2 issues I'll have to investigate, since I intend to use an Edelbrock Victor LS style 90mm throttle body (part#3864: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...tb-chevy.shtml), are the IAC and TPSensors pinouts. If they're not compatible, then I'll have to figure something out.

As far as exhaust, not decided yet but I do have my eye on the hawks 3rdgen stainless SBC long tube headers: http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ha...f-road-y-pipe/
...I just welded on the UMI subframe connectors last week, so not sure if this exhaust will clear those.

91 zeee

I was at the f body beach bash in Myrtle Beach and a guy had the Hawks long tubes. They were nice and super high quality. If you go that route, ground clearance is good as far as the headers are concerned, but you'll need to plan ahead for how to route the exhaust past the trans cross member.

I have a set of the UMI subframe connectors in the garage waiting to go on. How did they fit and hows the ground clearance?

UltRoadWarrior9

They fit pretty well. I had to bend the L brackets on both rails to fit better. Also, I cut and flattened out the very end of the passenger side rail for more contact area to the body. I also went back a week later after taking some hard turns and welded around the unibody area. There were large gaps in the overlapping metal and they were spot welded at the factory and I could see that they would've been pulled apart over time. BTW, I didn't have to take the carpet out because I didn't weld that high up near the floorpan...They sit maybe 3/4" lower than the pinch welds, not a problem for me.

UltRoadWarrior9

Got a few more parts in this week.
First, cam retainer plate part #10168501.
The rear cam plug part #32510000, I got was too large. Was made for Dart blocks, but someone gave it a good review on Summit saying it fit SBC. Well apparently not in my case...

UltRoadWarrior9

Got new ARP cam bolts with shorts heads so now the top half of the timing cover fits.

UltRoadWarrior9

Oil filter adapter, non-bypass style, so all oil is filtered. Also got a high volume oil pump with the pickup tube welded. Planning on a stock oil pan right now, but we'll see. The dowel pins for the pump came in a separate hardware kit I bought, part # DUR-FKC-1A. This kit also has other useful stuff, like the 2 keyways needed on the crank for the harmonic balancer.

UltRoadWarrior9

And new roller lifters, part #12499225. I decided on used dogbones and retainer plate.
Next on the list is the throttle body and fuel rails...

UltRoadWarrior9

Started to think about 102mm throttle bodies, but measured the 3848 Edelbrock Low Profile Intake opening @ 3.5" or 88mm. Looks bigger than the 4" cylinder bore in earlier pics...
Found what seems to be a good deal on a 90mm LSx throttle body for $85. I had to get it, after all it said 'USA QC checked' and it was cheap enough to absorb the cost, just in case. Edelbrock similar parts want ~$400....

UltRoadWarrior9

More research and more ebay searching led me to some good deals: 8 NEW 42lb LS high-impedance style injectors for $100. Billet Fuel rails/w hardware kit made for the RHS EFI intake for $172. And LSx 8-AN fuel rail flex crossover for $45. Will post pics when parts arrive.

UltRoadWarrior9

Posted this .pdf regarding the RHS/FAST EFI Intake Spec's, part #12903 used in this project, in the Aftermarket EFI Section of TGO: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/alte...all-block.html.

Also I'm gonna post it here. It was a PITA to find and download.

SbFormula

I had that sticking problem and resolved it with some imagination. Mine was sticking thus the TPS was reading higher voltage at Idle. The ECM would processed the info and was adding fuel thinking I was holding the gas pedal. I have a MAP system. Even if it was sticking, the throttle body was not really staying opened. It was more of a play problem in the way the throttle body was designed. I solved it by customizing a stopper for the TPS thus avoiding voltage variation. It works like a charm. Check out the pics

SbFormula

Check what these guys did I know you are now going with a different intake with shorter runners, but just for fun!

Just for your info, the oem ECM and .bin tables might have limitations if you want to run at high RPM. Some tables max out at 4800RPM others at 5600RPM. But check out this link http://www.dynamicefi.com/
RBob is THE go to guy for tuning on TGO. Check out his site and his EBL. Lots of info on EBL & tuning on TGO. The EBL has lots of features such as extended tables to name a few. Had I known that before buying the emulator and all the goodies from Moates, I would have invested in an EBL. Tuning with the original ECM, even with an emulator, can be a pain. I actually installed a removable laptop holder on the passenger side for convenience...And believe me, you will spend lots of time learning how to tune. Make sure you get a Wideband Gauge installed. There is no way you can tune without it, especially at WOT.

Also wondering if your ECM is strong enough to run those big 42lbs injectors?

Best of luck

UltRoadWarrior9

Thanks! great post. I've adjusted course on this project and have decided to go with the EBL P4 mounted to a 1227730 ECM. I'll just need to sell the Moates APU1 first.

As far as the injectors, I believe there are 2 kinds of the EV1 style injectors, high and low impedance, irregardless of flow rate.
3rd gen fuel injector drivers from the original ECM were designed for high impedance. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken.
I see you've already done the '730 swap in your sig. How difficult was it, and what was the toughest part?

SbFormula

Swap? I kept the original ECM and added up Moats emulator just like you. I have a wire coming from under the dash to flash and I permanently installed an ALDL wire with a USB plug on the radio delete plate. Basically, I have 2 wires hooked to the laptop (datalog and flash). I also have a push switch under the dash to rest the ECM. Instead of pulling the fuse every time (under the hood). Resting the ECM (BLMs) is essential between datalog sessions. It is paramount in order to compare data. My AFR gauge is not hooked for data logging. With your EBL, I'm pretty sure you can hook it. That would make your tuning experience way better. And yeah, you must have an AFR to tune, specially at WOT (repeating myself!!!)

As far as tuning goes, it was a long learning curve, time consuming and sometimes frustrating... But I think I have a grip on things now. That's why I started learning how to tune with the old LB9 engine and the original .bin, then moved on with the FirstFuel intake project. I am now ready for the 383 stroker confident that I can tune it. I would recommend you get a basic tune for your set up and then adjust it as you go. Starting from scratch can be very hard without experience.

UltRoadWarrior9

Woops, I see you have a 91 3rd gen, they used the 730 ECM originally.

This is some wise advice I'm going to take.
1) Do the '730 ECM swap and fit a MAP sensor to the original '86 TPI 305.
2) Get a wideband O2 sensor.
3) Try to tune it and get the car running so the 'ECM correct functioning' variable is out of the way when it comes time to swap in the 383.

A couple questions:
1) What laptop brace/stand is that?
2) Which wideband O2 did you choose? And are you running 2 O2 sensors or just the 1?

SbFormula

Hope you find all you need on TGO for that. There are differences between MAP and MAF and between model year. The MAP were introduced in 1990 if I remember correctly. Even the intake manifold is different I believe. I know the electronic spark control is different and maybe the knock sensor. You probably will have to change the distributor. Sad that I got rid of my intake, I would have mailed to you... ha ha ha. Best of luck.

Bought it from a Canadian online computer supplier. Had to do some modification to it. If you check online, I'm pretty sure you can find something local. Here's mine: http://www.ebay.de/itm/ONYX-CLH-070N...-/150883039631

Autometer: http://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-wide...t-phantom.html But you can pretty much pick any brand/model you want to match your likes and interior. Mine is in A Pillar pod. It is a gauge and not an ECM sensor. It won't communicate anything to your ECM. It is just for tuning.

Just 1 O2 sensor but I converted to heated O2. Here's a nice harness sold by TPI Parts: http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/2167

UltRoadWarrior9

Another update: Found a cheap set of SS304 long tube headers for $399+shipping on ebay thanks to this thread:https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...longtubes.html

I also ordered an indexable high torque mini-starter for $80 from ebay.

Still need to pay off some larger bills before I spring for the AFR210's, which will take a few more months.
I thought I could get this header setup and start to learn tuning the OEM305TPI in the meantime. Also, I'll get a WB O2 in order to accomplish this.
The plan is that the headers, starter and O2 sensor will be transferrable to the 383 build.

UltRoadWarrior9

Updating this old thread: 2 weeks ago paid for AFR210's, still waiting on them. 4 weeks manufacturing time direct from AFR.
Also, this week ordered Moroso 7Quart Oil Pan with crank scraper and windage tray, part # 20206. Also received billet steel high volume Moroso oil pump recommended for this Oil Pan, part #22139.

Change of plans: Could not install the OBX longtube headers onto the OEM305 as the old manifold nuts acted like they were going to break from the rust. So I'll hold off on that. Current plan is to still get the EBL P4 with the 7730 ECM for $520 and mount a MAP sensor to the OEM305 and get a grip on some basic tuning.

...Been saving tip money from work for the machine shop, almost to $500. Gonna have a face to face with the guys in the next few weeks..

UltRoadWarrior9

Intake section just about done. Only parts remaining are fuel pressure regulator, fuel crossover lines and MAP sensor.
Measures 11" tall with the 1/2" phenolic spacer which I added for T-Stat housing clearance and for cooler air. Will it clear the 2" cowl hood?

UltRoadWarrior9

Here's some pics of the oil pan I chose and the HV oil pump and clearance. Gonna be sorta tight. Looks like 1/16" without oil pan/pump gaskets. Estimate 2/16", MAYBE 3/16" with gaskets. Moroso recommendation is 3/16" to 1/2".

UltRoadWarrior9

880 block back in the bag with a fresh coat of WD40 just for a few more weeks...

UltRoadWarrior9

Update: Been on vacation the past week, with the block getting all kinds of work. I'll be listing work done this week sometime after I get the bill. Also, I received the competition ported AFR 210's, part #1103 from AFR. Took 4 weeks as they manufactured them from scratch. Perfect timing.

I'm thinking I may have to change the valve springs. AFR solid roller valve spring part #AFR8000 that comes with the cylinder heads are spec'd @220lb at the seat. Too much for the LS7 hydraulic lifters I'm using....For the XFI292 cam 'Kit', Comp Cams recommends their spring, part #26918-16 which has 125lb seat pressure. I did some research and I did 1 better I think. The AFR210 Comp ported package came with the 1.550 OD valve springs, and I paid extra for the TI retainers, so I looked up PAC Racing springs and found some double springs w/ damper. Going with part #PAC-1934. 160lb seat pressure and 1.550 OD for outer spring.

The other consideration is installed height of the valve spring. For the 'solid roller' AFR 8000 valve springs, the installed height is 1.95". For the 'hydraulic roller' PAC-1934 valve springs, the installed height is 1.88". So I'm hoping a .060" shim will do the trick underneath each of the 1934 valve springs.

The machine shop I'm dealing with seems to want to do the cylinder head work for me, but I think I get into such detail with them I think they got tired of me real quick. The old man was great for the block work. A real pleasure to talk to...
So, I'll do the research and then I'll just tell them what I would like done. With no liability on their side...

UltRoadWarrior9

Speaking of liability, had to call AFR because of an apparent incorrect valve lock install. Only one incorrect valve lock was present. The one on the left of the pic was the ONLY odd one out of both cylinder heads.
Was handled very quickly with me first calling and then sending a pic to AFR and them shipping out a pair of locks, 2nd day delivery. Less than an hour overall.

ceakay

A bit off the topic if I may. I'm building a 383 for my '88 iroc. I also wanted to keep it tpi at first, but decided to try carb instead. I've read that you can get quite a lot of power from porting the old cast iron manifold and tuning a q jet. Now I'm considering to try that and see how efficiently I can build a sleeper this way. Also telling people its a 305 under the q jet setup. Any thoughts or comments?

UltRoadWarrior9

That is abit off topic, sorry especially with the carb bit...

UltRoadWarrior9

Got the block back from Boyette's of Raleigh, NC. Will have pics soon...

Here's the services done (won't mention prices, but just over 1K total):

Clean Motor
Install cam bearings
Install brass freeze plugs
Check line bore
Bore block with torque plate (+.030)
Polish and mic crankshaft
Install pistons on rods
Balance engine
Surface block (.010 deck)
Cut ring gap (T .018, S .020)
Check bearing clearance
Check rod to block clearance

I like these guys... Gonna check the AFR heads next week...

ASE doc

Haven't looked at your thread for a bit. Looks like you're getting close. The AFR210s are more head than you need for 500hp. Generally figure close to 2hp per CFM of intake port flow on the heads. We give up a little efficiency with pump gas, but still can figure at least 1.8hp per CFM, even at the lower CR(10.4:1) needed for 93 octane.That works out to just over 270cfm for 500hp, 2280cfm puts you in good shape for 500hp. The AFR 195 street heads run 288cfm. That's a perfect head for a 500hp street strip motor. The 210s will work, you just give up some low speed velocity in the bigger ports which will translate into less torque below 3,500 rpm. Not a huge deal if you run a 3,500-4,000 stall converter.

Someone posted about the trap speed of the new Camaro SS. The latest ET and trap speed figures I've seen for the LS3 SS was 13.2 @ 106. My TPI 355 runs 13.3 @105 on its BFG Comp TAs, just about as fast as the new SS on drag radials. Your 500hp IROC will eat the new Camaro SS or Mustang GT for lunch. Your machinist said 450hp was about it for a small block running 93 octane? He needs to get out more. Or just do a quick search on the internet. His worksheet on the machining looks good.

My machinist tried to tell me the other day, once again, that he doesn't like to go over 9.5:1 on pump gas. He's just playing it safe for people who don't know how to tune. He's still an excellent engine builder. He'll set up deck height and quench wherever I ask him to on my builds.

UltRoadWarrior9

Now that is really interesting. I was going for 1.5HP/CI....
And I was going for a 2500stall speed converter as recommended by comp cams and their 292XFI cam.

ASE doc

1.5HP per Cu in is not the same thing as HP per CFM. I am talking about the relationship between intake port flow of the cylinder head and HP potential of a V8 engine. The guideline of 2hp per CFM is based on an excellent build running 110 octane race fuel which would run about 12:1 CR. As I said, the lower CR needed for pump gas will reduce the HP a little, but I still see the best builders doing 670HP from a 330CFM intake port. The build that I speak of was machined and tested by Lewis Racing Engines. I seem to remember it ran AFR 230s and a Dart intake ported by Chad Speier.

Take a look over on Speed talk. That is where some of the best minds in engine performance meet. Look for Dr. J and Chad Speier. The highest output SBC I've seen so far was built by Dr. J using heads and intake ported by Chad Speier. It was a 427cid that made 690hp on 93 octane. It ran I something like 11.7:1CR, which is beyond what you or I could ever get away with. That kind of CR on pump fuel requires near perfect flame front propagation , which in turn requires near perfect mixture control in the chamber, which in turn requires near perfect combustion camber design. Using off the shelf heads from someone like AFR, who does a pretty decent job of porting and chamber prep for off the shelf heads, we can certainly do 10.4:1 and still have room for tuning. Quench is the key to success here. Whatever your machinist says, make sure when he's done that with whatever gasket you're using, you have .040 quench. Of course, verify valve to piston clearance with the big cam before you assemble your valve train.

The 2,500 stall recommended by Comp is a bare minimum and I would not run that with a 292 cam. Especially not with a short runner single plane intake. You will get real tired of the lag pulling away from a stop, followed by a surge in torque at about 3,000 when the intake and cam come into their torque curve.

Comp will also tell you that 9.5:1 CR is enough for that cam. With intake valves closing at 75degrees ABDC, you want all the compression you can safely get away with. You mentioned David Vizard. He wants 190psi cranking pressure on a high performance street motor. The higher pressure equates to better low end torque. You will be nowhere close to that figure even at 10:1 with that cam. You will probably be closer to 160-170, it only gets worse as you drop CR.

Today's high stall converters are very well designed. You can specify stall rate and ratio as you like but talking to someone like Dana at Probuilt and giving him your vehicle specs and driving desires, he will spec you out a converter that will work very well for you. I run a 3,500 stall Edge 9.5" and I love it. You might think that with TPI the high stall would make for a narrow power band but it does just the opposite. The added torque conversion at the low end really makes things work well. I run a 290 degree cam, just a hair smaller than the 292Comp.

UltRoadWarrior9

That is some great knowledge you've once again added to this thread! Thanks alot for posting here.

You mention you already have a 3500 stall speed converter. I'm curious, at what RPM does the car start to actually move forward? I'll surely call Dana at Probuilt when that time comes.

Right now, compression will be closer to 11:1 with the deck height at .010, head chamber at 65cc, piston valve relief 5cc and head gasket compressed thickness of .026". Quench of .036". I finally chose Felpro MLS Gasket # 1142-026 based on some research and another member's recommendation in another thread. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...en1-build.html

A couple more parts to order and then check valvetrain clearances. I just need to choose pushrods and 1.6 roller rockers. Probably going with the Pro Magnum roller rockers purchase soon and starting out with a set of stock pushrods that I currently have and see if I have any interference issues. If none, then I'll check clearance. If interference issues, then I've certainly got a problem.

Another question, since I like to read books regarding SBC builds. A book I'm RE-reading regularly now called Engine Blueprinting, SA books #SA21 regarding piston valve relief radiusing says that removing sharp edges prevents preignition. I'm actually sorta tempted to do this myself using a grinder with an air pressure regulator.This would increase the piston cc volume and lower compression, but I think this might be a good idea.

no new tires

sub-

cardo0

Well I can see you are a true enthusiast Warrior so I have to give you a recommendation for some great engine building reading. You really need to read Four Stroke Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell. That book has more information than a normal hot rodder can use and is really written for the professional team efforts.

Hope you get to enjoy that book and your build is totally awesome. I wouldn't bother to suggest this to most hobbyists but can read you're ready for this.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Ult,
With the added torque of your 383, you can go somewhat conservative on a torque converter.
"Conservative" for your heads/cam/intake setup would be somewhere between 3200 and 3600. If you wanted to optimize 1/4 mile performance, then you'd want at least 4000 stall.
Also, identical stall rpm "rating" on two converters from different companies can have differenct flash stall rpm and drastically different driving characteristics. For instance, a Yank SS3600/PAS3400 will flash only slightly higher than a StreetEdge 3200 and will drive almost identically to it. StreetEdge converters traditionally flash higher and feel "looser" than advertised. Yank is probably the tightest feeling in normal driving and will rarely flash past its rated stall when spec'd for your particular setup; they're also very efficient. Vigilante and Coan are somewhere in between.

ASE doc

Absolutely correct and very pertinent to your question: "When does you car actually start moving forward?"

I think I touched on this in my long post above. The stall "rate and ratio" of a converter is just as important if not more important than the actual stall speed. I remember old school 3,500 stall converter would feel like it was in neutral till just about 3,500. Then it would rip your head off as it grabbed hold. The newer designs are way beyond this. The 3,500 Edge I run hardly feels different than the old 2,300 C48 converter I ran before, when cruising at light throttle. It's not until I get into the throttle that the converter flashes to 3,500. This because of the converter's stall rate and ratio.

You are right to talk to someone like Dana about it. As I said before, he will take your car's specs and intended use into account and make a recommendation based on that. For me, he gave a minimum recommendation of 3,000 stall, I went for 3,500 because I wanted to maximize torque under acceleration. I feel I made an excellent choice.

Concerning piston to valve clearance on the 23degree heads, you shouldn't have too much trouble with that. Widely available 2 eyebrow forged pistons are designed for 23 degree valve angle and roughly 2.02/1.60 valves. You should be pretty safe with a 5cc 2 eyebrow piston out of the box.

Part of the assembly process is to install #1 rod and piston assembly, torque down bank 1 head, using the gasket that you will be using in the final assembly(you will be wasting one head gasket so have an extra on hand), then using light springs(I have a set that I bought from the hardware store, just enough spring to hold the assembled valve, retainer and locks in place against the seat), assemble the valves on #1 cylinder. Do not install any push rods or rocker arms.

Now, rotate the engine to 360 degrees from TDC. This is the overlap point, where the valves are between the exhaust and intake strokes. This is where you will have interference if there is any to be had. At this point, depress each of the assembled valves down with your finger, while you measure travel with a dial indicator. The bare minimum is .060. Better off at about .100. Rotate the crankshaft 10 degrees each way from this point, measuring again at each point to be sure.

Longer connecting rods decrease valve to piston clearance as you move the crank away from 360degress off TDC. This is because of the rate at which the piston moves away from TDC, compared to crank rotation and valve motion. The longer rod keeps the piston at TDC longer. The difference between 5.7 and 6" is miniscule but when we're talking .001s, everything counts.

I don't foresee you having any issues with off the shelf 2 brow pistons from a major brand name, set at zero deck. While the 292 is a big cam for the street, it is mild compared to an aggressive race cam running 310 degrees and .700 lift. I would be surprised if you end up needing to cut valve reliefs.

Of course, steer clear of the generic 4 valve flat tops. They are not right for your application.

UltRoadWarrior9

That will be the next book I purchase, Thanks!
Seems like the torque converter is even more important than the camshaft choice! Great knowledge. At least we know who to call!

Regarding my last question in my last post, on valve relief 'radiusing', I think it's called that. Here's some pics of the first stage. The idea is to get rid of any sharp edges that may cause pre-ignition with 11:1 compression using 93 octane pump gas. I think the increase of piston relief cc's will be negligible.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

BINGO !
We've had great street converters available to us for over 25 years now, and the majority still don't get that!
I guess discussing cam specs comes across as more manly than discussing converter specs does . LOL!