snowflake

My car is an 85 iroc 305 tpi.

It as been sitting for 7 years. When i went to start it no fire. I replace the in tank pump. It pumps now, but wont fire. If I pour gas in the TPI it will fire right up till its out of gas. Could my injectors have went bad also??

What are the best replacement injectors to get now. Should I have High fuel pressure while it is cranking but not running? Im going to check it with a fuel pressure gauge. Thanks

UltRoadWarrior9

After sitting for 7 years, how much gas was still in the tank when you went to fire the engine up (today?)?

UltRoadWarrior9

Fuel injection pressure is not much different for 3rd gen cranking vs. running. Should be up near ~40+ PSI IIRC.

snowflake

it had zero gas as it all evaporated. I put 10 gallons in. Ok So I should have 40 plus LBS while cranking?

I want to make sure Auto zone sold me the correct Electric pump. i ran the part # but nothing comes up

Its a delphi FE0110 or CFEO110 thats what on the box. THANKS

UltRoadWarrior9

You choose well. Delphi is a great OEM choice for fuel pump! Great warranty although more $$, keep the receipt and original box...I'd focus on the fuel filter next...
Why did you suspect your injectors? You may be on the right track. Not sure...

snowflake

I disconnected the line after the fuel filter and its shooting gas. Car wont start. If I put gas inside the TPI it will start right up. It wont start on its own. (im thinking Injectors) When i press on the gas rail valve on TPI it seems like its not 40 + lbs coming out. its a quick squirt LOL, but not a high pressure squirt. I need to check pressure while its cranking.

UltRoadWarrior9

Why are you suspecting injectors? Very odd for all of them to fail at the same time... The reason you don't have pressure at the rail, leads me to believe either faulty pump or something else between the pump and injectors. Maybe a clogged or rusted line... HTH

gunznrosez87

i have an 88' IROC-z 5.7L/TPI with a 350. I have a problem in which i crank the motor, it starts right up, runs fine for 1min. THen it will shut off. THen when i go to restart it, it wont turn over, and it only makes 1 single clicking noise for every time i turn the key. Anyways, i cant restart it until hours later when motor is completely cold. It is only when it seems to warm up a little, is when it just shuts off. I've done hrs of research, and i think i got it down to 2 issues
1) mass airflow sensor and 2)fuel pump/fuel pump regulator. Here is is a list of things i replaced in case u thought this would be the problem.
1) distributor 2) cap + rotor 3) Ignition coil(and that wire that connects 2 the back of the distributor) 4) alternator 5)starter.
-Today i took off mass airflow sensor and cleaned it with airflow cleaner, and it did absolutely nothing. I even tried turning it over with it off(i heard if it runs better with it off, then thats your problem) and that did nothing. -I also checked the fuel pump fuse on the side panel next to the battery, it has a 20AMP and is good to go.
- Reason why im posting this, is because i cant find my thread that i posted....anyways, if any1 can help i would really appreciate it.

ASE doc

gunznrosez87. It's best for you if you start your own thread. Members will then be able to focus on helping you. The click but no crank after stalling is either an electrical issue with the charging system, battery, or starting system. Or it is a serious engine mechanical issue. You need to start by testing the battery and starting system when the engine won't start. Look for at least 9 volts at the battery when activating the starter. Verify good clean connections at the the battery. I really like to have an amp clamp at this point to verify current through the starter. When the engine is running, be sure you have charge voltage of around 14 volts.

To check the engine mechanical, once you know the starting system is working, use a breaker bar and 5/8 socket on the crank bolt. Don't apply more than 85ft lbs there or you'll over tighten the bolt. Better yet, pull the flywheel cover and use a barring tool that engages the flexplate teeth. This way you can apply more turning force. A warm motor should have good cylinder pressure and give some resistance but you should be able to turn it over and feel the pressure of each cylinder with the crank turning easier in between compression points. If the crank won't turn with the engine hot, you have one or more seizing bearings and are going to need major engine repair.

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

For the OP, check your fuel pressure regulator also. Sitting for so long with no gas, it probably got dry and cracked. For gunzanrosez87, sounds like your starter solenoid is bad, indicative of the "just clicks" when you turn the key to start. I highly doubt an engine would seize when hot then un-seize when it cooled down and a mechanical problem will not go away because the engine is cold. HTH!


BTW, gunzanrosez87, I did a search and you do not have any other threads listed. You may want to start a new thread.

ASE doc

Actually big al55, an engine can seize up with heat and free up when cool. In 40 years, I've seen that very thing happen a few times. Not common but it definitely happens. A main bearing that's starting to gaul and a little heat locks it to the journal like a brake.
How would a fuel pressure regulator caue an engine to run for one minute and stall? Maybe the ICM heating up, or a lot of crud building up around the pick up sock.

UltRoadWarrior9

This is what happened to my IROC, before I bought it. The diaphragm cracked letting fuel to freely fill up any cylinder. The engine hydro-locked and broke the starter nose. I pulled the spark plugs, turned the engine by hand and had a waterfall of gas come out of a few spark plug holes. Luckily no internal damage was done. Anyway, I don't believe this is the OP's problem.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

After sitting for 7 years, ALL of your injectors are probably/most likely gummed closed and full of gum.

SouthBay Fuel Injectors on here; about $160, problem solved.

ASE doc

In thinking of an engine mechanical issue I was lumping both symptoms, the stalling and the no crank afterward, into a single possible cause. It is likely that there is a starter or starter circuit issue and a separate fueling or ignition issue. Need to find out what's going away when the engine dies. Is it going lean, running out of fuel, as is injector fault? Going rich as in regulator diaphram? Is the spark dropping out as in ICM heating up and dropping out? As the engine warms up one thing that needs to happen is the fuel leans down from full cold enrichment. If the ECT sensor is open, the system will stay rich and cause the engine to load up and stall.

After figuring out why it won't start, either the solenoid, a bad battery connection, or whatever, really need to see what if any codes have popped up in the ECM from trying to run it.