Rust in engine
#1
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Car: 1983 Z29 T-Top Camaro project.
Engine: 305 V8 Cross Fire Injection
Rust in engine
So i got a free 83 z28 that i want to get running i pulled the valve covers and intake manifold and theres rust ill post some pictures i dont have a lot of money so i cant build a 350 or anything can i just ignore it and free up the engine or should i pull it and wait to build a 355 or 383 ?
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Car: 1989 IROC G92 LB9 MK6
Engine: LB9
Transmission: MK6
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Rust in engine
If you don't have money then by all means free it up and see. There was a reason why it was free, but I dont see how you would loose anything except an oil change and a set of plugs.
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Rust in engine
The rust you can see there, by itself, won't bother anything.
Problem is though, all the moving and rubbing parts of the engine like piston rings and cyl walls and cam lobes, probably look pretty similar.
You can try and break it loose and see if it'll run, but it looks kinda like it's been let go for too long to recover. You got nothing to lose by trying, except some oil and antifreeze and stuff like that.
Problem is though, all the moving and rubbing parts of the engine like piston rings and cyl walls and cam lobes, probably look pretty similar.
You can try and break it loose and see if it'll run, but it looks kinda like it's been let go for too long to recover. You got nothing to lose by trying, except some oil and antifreeze and stuff like that.
#6
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: Rust in engine
It's worth a shot.. It was free anyway.
Pull the plugs and squirt marvel mystery oil into the cylinders before you try to turn it over.
Pull oil drain plug and drain anything in there out.
Change oil filter
Pour 1 qt of oil over the rocker arms and lifters
Put 3 qt. of the cheapest oil you can find in after you put intake and valve covers back on.
Use a drill and oil pump prime tool (you can borrow that tool from auto zone, advance, etc if you don't have one) to pump up the oil before you try to crank or turn engine over.
Pull the plugs and squirt marvel mystery oil into the cylinders before you try to turn it over.
Pull oil drain plug and drain anything in there out.
Change oil filter
Pour 1 qt of oil over the rocker arms and lifters
Put 3 qt. of the cheapest oil you can find in after you put intake and valve covers back on.
Use a drill and oil pump prime tool (you can borrow that tool from auto zone, advance, etc if you don't have one) to pump up the oil before you try to crank or turn engine over.
#7
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Car: 1983 Z29 T-Top Camaro project.
Engine: 305 V8 Cross Fire Injection
Re: Rust in engine
It's worth a shot.. It was free anyway.
Pull the plugs and squirt marvel mystery oil into the cylinders before you try to turn it over.
Pull oil drain plug and drain anything in there out.
Change oil filter
Pour 1 qt of oil over the rocker arms and lifters
Put 3 qt. of the cheapest oil you can find in after you put intake and valve covers back on.
Use a drill and oil pump prime tool (you can borrow that tool from auto zone, advance, etc if you don't have one) to pump up the oil before you try to crank or turn engine over.
Pull the plugs and squirt marvel mystery oil into the cylinders before you try to turn it over.
Pull oil drain plug and drain anything in there out.
Change oil filter
Pour 1 qt of oil over the rocker arms and lifters
Put 3 qt. of the cheapest oil you can find in after you put intake and valve covers back on.
Use a drill and oil pump prime tool (you can borrow that tool from auto zone, advance, etc if you don't have one) to pump up the oil before you try to crank or turn engine over.
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Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: Rust in engine
You have been given some good advice. Even though you may want to pull the exhaust manifolds for headers, resist that urge. Take it one step at a time; get the engine running first. It is possible to get the spark plugs out. It just takes the right tools and some patience. In fact, it is easier with stock manifolds than it is with headers! If you try to pull those manifolds off, you will most likely regret it.
All you need is a 3/8 drive ratchet, spark plug socket, and a wobble extension or a universal and extension. I'm in my fifties, and if I can do it, so can you!
All you need is a 3/8 drive ratchet, spark plug socket, and a wobble extension or a universal and extension. I'm in my fifties, and if I can do it, so can you!
#9
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Car: 1983 Z29 T-Top Camaro project.
Engine: 305 V8 Cross Fire Injection
Re: Rust in engine
You have been given some good advice. Even though you may want to pull the exhaust manifolds for headers, resist that urge. Take it one step at a time; get the engine running first. It is possible to get the spark plugs out. It just takes the right tools and some patience. In fact, it is easier with stock manifolds than it is with headers! If you try to pull those manifolds off, you will most likely regret it.
All you need is a 3/8 drive ratchet, spark plug socket, and a wobble extension or a universal and extension. I'm in my fifties, and if I can do it, so can you!
All you need is a 3/8 drive ratchet, spark plug socket, and a wobble extension or a universal and extension. I'm in my fifties, and if I can do it, so can you!
#10
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: Rust in engine
Yep, I 100% agree. Do not try to remove the exhaust manifolds until you have headers sitting next to you and ready to install them.. "
Do not 'waste' money on headers until you know what you are doing engine wise.
What will happen is most likely a couple of those manifold bolts will break off flush with the manifold when you try to remove them.
Take your time and just remove the plugs... A couple of the rear spark plus are easier to get to from under the car.
Get those out, get the MMO into the cylinders and go from there to see if the engine will turn over or fire up.
The you can look into headers and what not.
Do not 'waste' money on headers until you know what you are doing engine wise.
What will happen is most likely a couple of those manifold bolts will break off flush with the manifold when you try to remove them.
Take your time and just remove the plugs... A couple of the rear spark plus are easier to get to from under the car.
Get those out, get the MMO into the cylinders and go from there to see if the engine will turn over or fire up.
The you can look into headers and what not.
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Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: 355- hopefully a 5.3 this summer
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Rust in engine
instead of screwing around with spark plugs, i would just take the easy route dump a little Marvel Mystery Oil in each of the intake ports.. some of the valves are open so the oil will run right into the cylinders... the rest can be pushed open (maybe even by hand since valve springs were so weak back then) just enough to let the oil run into the cylinders...
or i would just skip that part altogether and just put a breaker bar on the bolt in the crank pulley and see if it turns..
or i would just skip that part altogether and just put a breaker bar on the bolt in the crank pulley and see if it turns..
#12
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Re: Rust in engine
^ I would pull the plugs since you are going to need to replace them anyway, and put a breaker bar and socket on the crank nut as suggested and see if you can turn it. If you can I would drain the pan and change the filter, then dump oil over your valves and lifters , put your covers and intake back on, fill with fresh oil and new plugs and see if you can start it.
If not then start with the marvel mystery oil.
Chances are however if it has been sitting a long time something is broke, which is why it got parked to start with. In any case first purchase should be a Haynes or Chiltons manual for this car. These manuals have detailed instructions for most common repairs and troubleshooting techniques.
If not then start with the marvel mystery oil.
Chances are however if it has been sitting a long time something is broke, which is why it got parked to start with. In any case first purchase should be a Haynes or Chiltons manual for this car. These manuals have detailed instructions for most common repairs and troubleshooting techniques.
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