mk1431

I noticed that I'm coming up for my first 30k service ( 27 years later)
Have anyone with a low mileage stock or lightly modded 3rd gen done services maint service like brake flushes,power steering flushes rear end services if so how often do you do them?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

All of that sort of thing is specified for NEW cars, not cars already ANTIQUES such as yours.

At this point, anything you haven't done, go do it. EVERY fluid is long overdue for a flush & change. EVERY rubber part is crumbling to dust. EVERY plastic part is cracking and falling to pieces. EVERY seal, EVERY gasket, EVERY non-metallic thing, is suspect. EVERY part is subject to corrosion; aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper, brass, whatever. Inspect, renew, replace.

In case any part doesn't seem to be part of "every", consult a dictionary.

mk1431

I'm auto tech by trade and have access to lift and service equipment and up to date with that stuff just wondering if anyone has to do it at home or bring to service ctr personally I would trust anyone else to do it

Vader

I wouldn't really call mine low-mileage. My '86 ticked over 50K this spring. However, having passed the 30K mark a while back, I can advise that you flush the brake fluid as a safety measure. Do the same with the clutch MC but simply empty out the reservoir and refill with clean fluid. You'll have to repeat this several times to get it cleaned up and fortified.

Empty the power steering reservoir (suction gun, etc.), refill it with fresh oil, then plan on doing it again a year or two. The anti-wear and rust preventive additives in the steering hydraulic oil are probably spent, not to mention the seal conditioners.

Dump the synchomesh oil in the trans and replenish it - Same reasons as above.

Pop the cover on the Borg axle, wipe out any residue, and seal it up. Refill with synthetic gear oil and a vial of posi additive - That axle needs it to operate (at least mine does).

Perform a full body lubrication includign the normal grease fittings and oiling hinges, latches, graphite in the lock cylinders, silicone grease applied to all weatherstrips and body rubber (over and under the floor).

Check the hardware on the torque arm mount and track bar/brace.

Clean the PCV system, valve, and hose. If you can clean the original it is far better than replacing it. Replacement PCVs do not have as close a calibration of the two springs and pintle taper as the original and may contribute to control system issues/codes.

Clean the throttle body bores, plates, and IAC air passages.

Change the fuel filter.

Inspect the brake linings AND the hoses. They are about due to deteriorate and collapse.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not sure about "have to do it at home"; the way I look at it, I'm a cheeeeep basterd, and if I can do it, I refuse to pay somebody else to do it for me. You may be different. Likewise, if I do it myself, then I get to look inside things, touch things, etc., in which case I get to learn more about the car.

NEVER IN ALL MY DAYS have I "bring" any car I own to "service ctr" for fluid changes.

First thing I do when buying a used car, is ALL the "deferred maintenance". Which in this sort of car, consists mostly of changing the fluids, restoring the brakes, a set of tires, fix whatever leaks I find, complete tune-up including carb rebuild or injector cleaning (NOT just pour some sort of "mechanic in a can" in the tank), and all such as that. But you're a pro, you know more about that than I ever will, just go do it.

ploegi

I will frequently take my car in for an oil change, as 99% of the time, they can do it for about the same, or less money than if I did it myself...... and I am just getting too old/decrepit to want to do it.