FireInMe17

Has anyone done this to their car or know how to do it? Having issues getting my car to start all of a sudden and I think it may be the anti-theft acting up. Looking for help to bypass the decoder module. Thanks.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

There is an incredible amount of VATs info here. I even think there is a tech article about the VATs bypass.


All you do is get a multi meter set it to ohms and measure the resistance in your key pellet. Get resistor(s) to match close to that amount. Wire resistors into VATs wires at bottom of steering column.


Is your security light staying lit, or what are your symptoms exactly?

FireInMe17

Car ran fine then one day wouldn't start. Tried replacing sensors, checked everything, still no luck. Finally noticed the security light would come on and not go off when turning the key to the on position. Tried swapping computers and memcals with no luck. I got a custom memcal made for the car that has the vats disabled but not sure what else to check, and the security light staying on makes me think that's what the real problem is, something in the system has faulted or something that needs rectified to get the car running again.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

Does it crank? Or do nothing when you turn the key? Security light staying on is VATs, but since you have a memcal with vats disabled it shouldn't matter if it cranks.

FireInMe17

It will crank all day but never turn over and run.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

Normally VATs disables the starter relay along with the fuel injectors. Can you hear your fuel pump priming? Or tested fuel pressure? Are your injectors pulsing?


It's possible at some point someone bypassed the VATs control of the starter relay and just wired it to ground. And perhaps the memcal you bought doesn't actually have vats disabled.
Not sure what sensors you changed, but I would check the basics first (fuel pressure, spark, injector pulse)

FireInMe17

All in all so far I've changed the vehicle speed sensor, oxygen sensor, oil pressure sensor, throttle position sensor, coolant temp sensor, and knock sensor. Injectors are brand new Bosch. I can hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the key forward just like it should. I tested the injector harness and it has power, everything has power. Ive owned the car for 8 years and just redid the whole thing, new brakes, bearings, steering, suspension, ignition system, all lines, engine and transmission are all new in the car. Only thing that isn't new is the fuel pump and tank, and the TPI plenum and runners and engine harness. The car even has a remanufactured ACDelco ecm in it. Car primes the fuel rail to 47psi so pressure is good. And honestly at this point I'm out of ideas.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

But are the injectors pulsing while cranking? They should have an always hot with KOEO wire and the other wire that the ECM pulses for ground. You may need another person to hold or confirm the noid light does pulse while cranking. When you're cranking does the tachometer bounce or does it just lay still?

FireInMe17

I don't think I've seen the tach do anything, oil pressure either. Every time I try to crank it I can smell the fuel though.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

If the tach is not bouncing or anything than it's probable that the ignition pick-up coil in the distributor is bad. Did the tach work previously? No RPM signal to the ECM will also keep the injectors from pulsing.
You need to confirm whether or not the injectors are pulsing while cranking

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

Also you said all new ignition system, what did that consist of?

FireInMe17

New distributor, cap, rotor, coil, ignition module, spark plugs and wires.

FireInMe17

Which wire do you put the resistor in? I'm gonna try it today see what happens...

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

I'll see if I can find a pic. At the bottom of the steering column there is 2 small gauge wires inside an orange sleeve if I remember correctly

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/electronics/515925-how-disable-vats.html

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

Did you get this working?

FireInMe17

I bought a code reader with a display to try and pull codes to see if I had code 46 for a vats problem and the computer had no codes. So if I trust that then nothing is wrong with the vats but the car still will not start. Can't even get it to backfire or anything to give me an indication that it's trying to fire. Didn't have time today but I need to get ether to see if I can get it to carry on or do something with that. I've replaced so much on the car I just can't figure out why it won't run. I did get it to run long enough to take it on a 6 mile loop around the house about three weeks ago but since then I can't get it to do anything and I'm completely lost on what's the matter with it. I want to pull the distributor and reset the timing or inspect it to make sure that it isn't broke somehow but I can't get the car to do anything but turn on the electronics now...

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

It doesn't crank anymore? Is the battery good? I would check injector pulse before pulling the distributor. Check the ECM fuse next to the battery also, that gets overlooked sometimes.

FireInMe17

It cranks, turns on the lights, radio, gauges, and powers the engine harness and that's it. Fuses are good, checked them plenty of times. Still waiting to get my injector tester I bought to test them.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

Did you notice if the RPMs gauge bounces while cranking?

toomanybirds

iTrader: (1)

Just my two cents, and I may be wrong (ask my wife and she will say I am always wrong) but I'd concentrate on that ignition coil or module whatever it is called, under the distributor. You need to remove the distributor to access it. I only say this because one of my cars was doing the same thing and I just decided to replace the entire distributor and it fixed it....well, in the interest of full disclosure, it fixed it for exactly two weeks (bought a cheap dizzy off ebay, never again) and then the car acted up again. Turned out the ignition module/coil was "defective" and when I replaced the ignition module/coil with a quality part, the car was, and remains, running fine.
Good luck.

FireInMe17

Tach doesn't do anything while cranking. And toomanybirds, ignition module and coil all both new. Distributor isn't like out of the box brand new but it is still pretty new.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

I would bet that your pickup coil is bad. It is not sending a RPM signal and so the ECM is not pulsing the injectors.

If you still have your old distributor I would put it in

FireInMe17

You think the distributor could be bad?

FireInMe17

I pulled it out, the pick up wasn't even making contact with the sides. So I'm putting the new one in right now...

FireInMe17

That was it! Put a new distributor in it and fired right up! Just need to set the right timing now, spitting and sputtering a bit but it does run! Oh it feels so good to hear it again!

1988CamaroSC

iTrader: (2)

Saweeeeet!

Ron U.S.M.C.

Fixed it = very nice

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

Awesome man! Glad you got it sorted out.

FireInMe17

Thanks for your help! Can't believe I didn't think about it!