mikeyt

-2) Reman'd Vortec heads shaved 0.030 to get a 58cc combustion chamber 520/059 castings $450 done
-Flowtech ceramic headers and Y pipe 161021 $527
-Percy's aluminum exhaust manifold gaskets 66122 $38
-GM head gasket set 14096405 $79 for pair
-Head bolts and intake manifold bolts local sourced $60
-Mr. Gasket locking exhaust manifold bolts 2230g $31set
-Professional Products dual plane carb intake manifold 52007 $140
-Inject-it throttle body adapter trd 2211 $43
-5 layer intake manifold gasket set-local sourced $30
-Air pump delete kit GM 10129569 $48
-Custom Chips tuner chip to eliminate EGR and Smog Pump, WOT change, trans lock up/stall speed change, fuel enrichment and timing curve change $65
-Flow through cat

big hammer

No cam?

mikeyt

No cam, bottom end is stock. I hear the Vortec heads add approx. 60hp-may be inflated, by bolt on.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Do a cam even if its a 90's lt1 take out

Ty92Z

iTrader: (11)

He was encouraged in his other thread to do a cam. He will be sadly disappointed if he doesn't.

big hammer

Don't use the crap stock cam

mikeyt

How do I do it without removing the motor? Which one is a good one that's streetable and won't kill my gas mileage, plus not too expensive-kinda at the end of a budget I didn't have..know what I mean. Just a little bump stick nothing crazy, this is all going in my daughter's first car....What a way to break her in...LOL

big hammer

You just pull the radiator, and a couple bolts out of the front clip brace and it'll slip right now.

Ty92Z

iTrader: (11)

A stock used LT1 cam will work well. You can usually find them for around $50. Drop the front of the oil pan, pull the timing cover, radiator and have someone hold the AC condenser up while you pull the cam out.

mikeyt

If I'm not able to, does anyone know based on the stuff I've got already.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

I think the best "guesstimate" I could muster would be to think of it in these terms.

L03 TBI 305, 170 H.P.

L30 Vortec 305, 230 H.P.

So that is a 60 horsepower difference, as you indicated. But I don't know that we can attribute all of that to the heads. But my guess would be they get the lions share of the credit (Vs the Vortec EFI setup, and Vortec cam). But where exactly does that land you? 210? I guess only a trip to the dyno will tell you for sure.

I'd have to agree with the LT1 cam suggestions, or at least some kind of camshaft change over the peanut cam.

mikeyt

That's not bad, I mean 30% of the original is good. I'll see about the cam.

mikeyt

But the lt1 cams are for a 350 not a 305...Will that work?

valicswarrior

iTrader: (1)

hey mikeyt where was the quote or work on the heads done at? I was going to use the head shop in Virginia beach, been hearing good things.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

I agree with DynoDave. I imagine without a cam change you would only make around 200-210 HP. With an LT1 cam I expect 230-245.

sootie007

No cam with your parts I would say about 200-210...with a conservative LT1 cam I would say 230 -240. You might as well throw some Fel Pro 1094 .015 head gaskets in there to give a slight compression bump since your doing the heads anyway.

sootie007

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...-ultimate.html

valicswarrior

iTrader: (1)

slightly high jacking the thread and I apologize but can you put a stock ls1 cam in a carb'd 305?

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

The stock L03 cam was the worst performance wise cam probably ever put in a sbc. To make any power out of your setup it has to go.

Vanilla Ice

No. LSx grinds will not work.

valicswarrior

iTrader: (1)

Thanks

mikeyt

I got the heads from Barnetts machine shop in south Norfolk, talk to Stephanie, their number is 757-494-0530 they've got them in stock. I paid $525 for the heads done, shaved 0.030" to bring it down to a 58cc firing chamber, 3 angle valve job, new valve stem seals, pressure checked and magna-fluxed with new rocker arms and hardware, they have 184 intakes and 160 exhausts.

mikeyt

I've already got the headgaskets, I didn't think about getting ones that were thinner. I'm using the GM 0.028" ones

mikeyt

This is a cam I found on ebay will it specs work for my build up:




YOU ARE BIDDING ON A HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAMSHAFT THAT WILL FIT THE 1987 UP CHEVYS AND FIREBIRDS THAT HAVE THE HYDRAULIC ROLLER DESIGN. THESE CAMS ARE INSPECTED,CLEANED, STRAIGHTENED AND THEN GROUND TO THE SPECIFICATIONS OF
.495 INTAKE LIFT / DUR.@.050 .218 DEGREES
.502 EXHAUST LIFT / DUR. @.050 .224 DEGREES
LOBE SEPERATION IS II0 DEGREES 112 LOBE SEPERATION AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST
THIS CAM WORKS WITH THE STOCK TORQUE CONVERTER. IF APPLICATION IS FOR LT1/LT4 SPECIFY IF LONG DOWEL PIN IS NEEDED. CAM IS AVAILABLE WITHOUT FUEL PUMP LOBE. THIS CAM LIKES A STAGE ONE CHIP. VERY STREETABLE AND A GOOD ADDITION TO ANY LT1/LT4 POWER PLANT.
FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY! there is NO GUARENTEE OF EMISSIONS COMPATABILITY.........THIS CAM HAS NO FUEL PUMP LOBE Call If You need the fuel pump lobe (aditional charge of $20.00)
1992-’95 350 WITH ALUMINUM HEADS - The 1992 Corvette had a steel roller cam with a shallow hole in the snout that measured .450" in the front and tapered down to .240" at the bottom. It had a short dowel (.320") that was used to locate the timing gear and a hole with 16 splines in the center of the gear for the stub shaft that drove the early distributor. The 1993-‘94 H.O. cam had a few subtle changes, but all of the early H.O. cams are the same for all intents and purposes. They can be identified by the number "241" stamped on the barrel in front of the first lobe.
405681-0666