midias

I have tossed these heads on a lot of low budget builds. They have a lot of meat for porting later and flow similar to vortec heads. I think they are basically a double hump clone. But they work well I prefer vortecs but some people don't want the new manifold or dealing with thew springs. Although alexs parts makes that easy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/sb-sbc-Chevy...fN5iiA&vxp=mtr

They are good for lower lift cams and with a 170CC intake not bad

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

http://www.speierracingheads.com/

Id email or call this guy. He has LOTS of experience with over sea heads and can help guide you.

mattbhm

Reading everyone's posts and taking into consideration everything said, but I thought I'd post this.

Someone linked me this http://1320techtalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2256

That's Speier talking about these. He also chimes in about how nice they are in a few other threads floating around.

jokerZ71

The NKB is not a bad head for the price as I've told you before.The flow is comparable to a Vortec.The Vortec is an OEM iron truck head with a 170cc port.The NKB is a 200cc "racing head" as advertised.That alone shows you how well they flow.Compare that to a 185 Profiler,that offers approx. 20 cfm of flow at all lifts above the NKB.The ProMaxx 185,or,even the FlowTek has very similar flow # with smaller ports.As I said before,based on the flow vs the runner size tells me that the ports are lazy & not very efficient in stock form.Especially on a 350 cube motor.Porting can greatly remedy this,IF DONE CORRECTLY".Doing a simple pocket port,etc, as has been suggested to you on the other thread is not gonna be sufficient,or,make an extreme difference.
Look at the number of ppl who advised against your current part choice.You have about 2,maybe 3,that agree with those parts for your build,& you already know how I feel about 1 of those 3 "experts" who recommends these heads & large cams for every single build wether it be a street car,mudder truck,or trailer puller.That cam is another story.It's going to be loud.It's going to be very hard on your valve train.If you were taking this to the strip to win & wanted every last bit of HP,that would be one thing,but,you haven't expressed any interest or even mentioned that.
You're making quite a few sacrifices for not much,if any gains.

midias

Yes it is him and all you need to do is give him $6-800 and he will make them great. At least that is his approx price in that thread.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Go to his site, go to special tools. He has a few heads/used for sale...... check it out.

jokerZ71

After talking to a buddy who uses solid cams often,I realize now that the cam card specs can be pretty misleading.Comp & others actually use .008 for the advertised duration making this in hydraulic terms approx. a 274 to 276 & the @ 050 specs will actually be approx. 8* to 10* lower as well.So,it's not as aggressive as the specs would leave you to believe.Still not convinced it would a good choice for your build tho.It's still gonna have quite a bit of overlap & with that 107 LSA,gonna be a pretty nasty cam until 3000 rpm,or,so.Combine that with a lazy(IMO) 200cc port head & I think you'll be be giving up some throttle response & drivability on the streetfor not much gain in power.
That lope you are seeking is actually from inefficiency as the mixture at low rpm is actually trying to back up the intake.Combine that with a head that has poor velocity pushing the mixture in & you can end up with very poor lower rpm operation & a very nasty running motor.With your gearing,you prolly won't be able to use 4th gear until you get up over 60 mph,or.so without lunging the motor.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If you want, buy the casting bare, and order some valves and take them to a local machine shop to have work done. My local shop will regrind valve seats and flat mill for 400$. That way you know you have quality valvetrain components

jokerZ71

that mite not be a bad idea.These heads are from Fred White & I notice he doesn't go into a lot of detail on the hardware used.He also advertises a cheaper price & approx. 10 cfm lower flow than the same head as Skip White does.
I do know that Skip does use quality brandname hardware & does a great job of setting the assembled heads up.You can only assume that Fred must be using cheaper hardware & maybe not as an efficient valve job.Skip uses Mellings springs,PBM Performance valves,& Comp seals,locks,& retainers.The flowrate on his assembled head is rated at 244 cfm at .500" lift.

mattbhm

Just emailed white performance asking about what they use and if it would be possible for them to install comp products or something of equal quality if they don't already.

jokerZ71

Usually you can assume if they don't list an actual brand,or,give any specifics,it will be an offbrand,or,no name product.You can also look at descriptions of the budget castings like these compared to namebrand like Profiler/AFR,etc. The namebrand heads will tell the actual material,such 356 aluminum,or,the grade type of guides such phosphorus bronze,or,whatever is used.The budget heads will say something along the lines of "high strength aluminum",or,"special bronze alloy",etc,without really giving any actual useful material specs.

mattbhm

No reply from them and it's been 3 days..

Either they're slow, which is fine and possible, or they don't want me to know.

fbodyfreakls1

I'm going to do the same as everyone else and try to point you in the right direction, you sound like you want a strong street car with a nasty idle, but you want it to be fast as well. That cam and these heads will not equal fast in anyway, plus the bottom end of that stock l83 won't live to spin high enough rpm to put that cam to use. Flat tops are in your favor seeing as how they make for good combustion characteristics, you need to know you piston to deck height first hand to make a good working engine. Knowing you piston to deck will help you pick a head gasket with the right compressed thickness to get your quench tight. A tight quench (distance between piston face and head deck) will optimize combustion and make more power, for a engine that needs to live in the 5500-6000 rpm range a quench of .032-.034 would be ideal, i would also recommend getting your compression up as close to 11:1 as you can, for every full point in compression increase on a SBC is worth around 20hp alone. Compression is power and with a cast iron head 11:1 is about it for pump 93 and a cam that keeps a good dynamic compression ratio. Notice I said cast iron, drop the idea of the cheap *** heads, Cuz you'll be waisting money. Buy a set of vortec heads, pocket port/blend them and do a Polish finishing them in 80 grit, doctor up the combustion chamber and finish it in a finer grit. That head will out perform the other all day. I'll tell you why those heads are junk. Big lazy crappy flowing intake runner will KILL your throttle response and low end power period. Please listen to us and don't waste money on those heads.

So in a nut shell, find out your deck to piston height, for example if the piston sits level with deck or at a 0 deck height you'll need a head gasket with a .032-.034 compressed thickness, try and get compression up to, or as close to 11:1, get a good set of vortec heads and doctor them up, read threads and articles about porting them, look at pictures etc, then at that point call a cam company and have them tell you what cam to run in that engine and for your goals, I'm betting it'll be in the 228@.50 area with a 108-110 LSA. It will have the idle you want, and the engine will sound nasty as hell with that compression and tight quench, not only that it'll back it up unlike this planned engine you have your mind set on. I promise you that a combo like what I stated will run harder than it has any business doing and would desimate what you are looking at doing. You spec the cam to the engine not the other way around, a 3000rpm stall and 3:73-4:10 gear would be a good add as well. I hope I didn't miss anything as I just read this whole thread and replied. Don't take anything I said the wrong way I'm just trying to help you get what you want. Trust me we know what we are talking about and are trying to lead you in the right direction!!