89taguy

i have a 89 trans am with the 5.7 i bought the car with broken power steering mount bolts and 2 missing.
i need new bolts and cant seem to find the part number that i need.
2 broken bolts wont come out at the lower end of the mount.
broke off flush to the block.
i driller a hole in both of them to put an easy out in to get it out, but i ended up breaking the easy out in 1 of the bolts since the bolts are rusted in there. i left the other one alone for a couple months and sprayed it a 5 times a week and i tried today to get the other one to move and it wont budge at all...
i feel like i am going to break the easy out in the this bolt to. even though i have been spraying it for a couple months now...
any help would be appreciated...
i also tried to heat around the broken bolt slowly

zed-028

ah crap, its moments like these that you feel your wallet opening and money beginning to evaporate out. There is an option that will take a little bit of work. Drill into the bolt and gradually increase the size of the drill bits until the bolt is basically gone and you are left with a smooth shaft (lol) grab a tap and die and retap the hole, grab a few new bolts to fit. make sure you dont go too much bigger than the original hole.

its a crap solution and itll take some doing, but itll work.

89taguy

that might sound like the only option.
just no room to really drill with engine still in and rad still there to.
was thinking on taking the rad out and drilling it out that way. just hoping ill have enough room after removing the rads.

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

Can't weld a nut to the end of the broken bolt?

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

That's a serpentine set up right? Is it just the bolts holding in the steering pump or the bolts that hold on the bracket it's attached to? That whole aluminum bracket that holds the alternator and the steering pump comes off. Taking it all off might make it much easier to work on. I forget whether you can get to all the bolts with the steering pump still on though?

ASE doc

You can get all the bolts with the PS pump still on. You'll want to get the alternator out of the way and one of the bolts may be hard to gt to around the PS pulley but I'm pretty sure you can get it out.There are 5 bolts and studs with nuts that attach the bracket to the block and head. There is also a bolt(or a nut on a stud) at the back of the pump that has to come out to get the bracket out. To get the bracket clear out, you may need to remove the pulley in order to get the pump free of the bracket.

All of the bolts that thread into the block are 3/8" x 16 thread. The bolts that thread into the bracket and the PS pump are 9mm x 1.5mm thread. Don't confuse the two.

With the bracket out, you may be able to get hold of the bolts with vise grips and break them loose. You will also have better luck applying heat without the bracket there.

EDIT: Crap, just reread and see the bolts are broken flush with the block. I've drilled and tapped too many bolts to count. Getting as close to center of the bolt as you can with the drill is the key to success. If you do it right, you can peel out the remaining bolt, clean out the threads with a tap and keep the same size bolt. One thing that can help is left hand drill bits. Sometimes the bit will catch the bolt and spin it out. Short "mechanic length" bits give you more clearance. A 90 degree drill is also helpful even if a little harder to keep centered and straight.

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

I remember now, with the pulley off you can get the bracket off with the pump still attached

paulo57509

Left hand twist drills seem to work best for me.

Try to avoid easy-outs. Once you break them off in your newly drilled hole you're screwed. I consider easy-outs a last resort. However, I've found that these types of extractors are less prone to snap off than those spiral ones:

https://www.grainger.com/product/3R9...161027015448:s

ASE doc

paulo, your link doesn't seem to work.

When shopping for left hand drills, go for the cobalt. The cobalt is much harder than high speed steel or titanium. Careful not to chip them or over heat them while drilling or they're ruined real quick.

I agree that easy outs are a tenuous option. The larger ones, especially my Snap Ons are pretty tough. The smaller ones will snap just like a tap. They are very hard material. Once you break one off in a bolt you are stuck either trying to blow it out with an oxy acetylene torch, or drilling it out with a carbide tipped drill bit.

The torch is risky that close the oil pan gasket and front seal. You may well end up pulling the motor for a reseal. The carbide bit is the only thing I have ever found that will cut though a tap or extractor. The process of drilling out the hard material with a carbide bit really sucks too.

paulo57509

Try this link:

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-EXS-...D78NKBEMWYKSBR

ASE doc

Yes. I've used that style before. Not quite as good a bite, have to really drive them in, but they don't break as easily.

89taguy

that is the same easy out style i used one 1 of the 2 broken bolts and its snapped.
i also cant find any left handed drill bits in the area i live in.
the power steering pump and alternator have been taken off the mount due to mount being cracked.
the only thing really in my way to get a drill in there is to remove my rad and fans.
other then that its wide open.
got my mount fixed had 2 cracks in it now just need to get those broken bolts out

redneckjoe

i wonder if a highly skilled TIG welder could weld some all-thread where the broken bolts are? just tossing an option out there.

ASE doc

I have had success with welding a nut onto a bolt or stud that protruded above the surface. It would be a job for a very skilled welder to weld onto the flush bolt.

I think the heat from the welding is a big part of why this works.