Turbok9

The car - 91 Z-28, L31 350, HSR. Ran fine until Thursday....

The problem - clickclickclick goes the starter solenoid. Will start with a jump now, but had on jump for 45 minutes Saturday and click click click.

The puzzle - Sounds like a simple problem of replacing the battery., cleaning up battery connections and grounds... Nope.

What's been done - VATS is OK, New positive and ground cables, starter relay tested (OK), Starter tested (OK), battery tested (OK), body ground cleaned, engine ground clean, all starter connections tight.

Yesterday Ran a test lead from solenoid with all wires attached, click click. With only positive cable and test lead attached, cranked. Reconnected everything one at a time, started, turned off car after letting sit idling for a few minutes. Restart.... click click. Jumped, started and ran. Got her home. Turn off, click click.

How likely is it this is an alternator issue? I initially couldn't start even after an extended jump, with the dash voltmeter reading 13+. It wasn't until I removed all wires from the starter except the positive cable and ran a test lead that she'd crank. I balked at thinking the alt was the issue because she'll sit and idle, then drive home, and not die. Could the Alt be providing enough juice to run, but not enough to actually maintain battery charge when car is running?

At my wits end on this one.

zed-028

that sounds like a collapsed cell inside the battery. ive seen batteries read absolutely fine until you try and start and they crap out entirely. swap a battery from another car in and see how it goes. from the list you replaced everything except the battery.

the other option is the starter solenoid itself being heat soaked. i got stranded getting fuel on a hot day (36c) on thursday. got in... nothing. had to wait about half an hour for it to cool enough to actuate. - needless to say i have a ford starter solenoid ready to install.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Ignition switch in the column. I chased mine forever doing what you did

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

The "click click click" says it's the solenoid. Replace it or the whole starter depending on age. With jumper cables connected, you basically ruled out the battery so most likely. probably the solenoid. Not that expensive a part anyway. HTH!

Turbok9

Thanks guys!

bigal - not the solenoid. Starter bench tests fine and car starts fine on full battery. Also, tried two other starters, one new/rebuilt and one known good from another vehicle. Same condition.

Zed - Possible I suppose. I have another battery same CCA I know is good, on my tractor. I'll yank, verify charge, and try tonight.

Sail - Have my doubts on this, because initially got the same results running a test lead from the solenoid and cutting the ignition out of the loop.

Update - earlier today started off full battery, like a champ. Disconnected charger, idled five minutes, shut down. Click click click. Jump it, fired right up. For giggles ran alt in for test, tested OK. Will be swapping batteries this evening and testing, will let you all know how it goes.

Any chance this could be something in the actual ignition system? Bad coil / ICM going to ground or otherwise drawing too many amps?

zed-028

In what world does using jumper cables rule out the battery? Once you provide a dying battery with a good 12v plus source it will start right up and jumped a car will run for ages as long as its power isnt being chewed by lights and other aux items.

Then the minute you go to start it again, bam not enough power to start it.

Turbok9

Update....

New battery. No joy.

Here's the rundown....

Tested starter - good.
Tried different starter just for giggles.
Tested alt. Good.
Tried different alt just for giggles.
New pos cable.
New negative cable.
Cleaned and tightened all grounds, engine and body.
Cleaned and tightened all batt and starter connections.
Bypassed starter relay for giggles.
Tried a test lead straight to solenoid to rule out ignition key circuit.
New battery.

No joy.

Car will start on full charge. Run for a few minutes, shut off, click click click.

If I didn't shave my head I'd be pulling my hair out.

Turbok9

As far as solenoid heat soak, doesn't seem likely. Car only has to run for a minute for the problem to occur.... and the solenoid is still cool to touch.

Remember, I have to jump or charge batt to get her started again.

Where the heck is the charge going?

maks10

When your getting clicking at selenoid, test the voltage there at the s terminal at that time and see what your getting when your cranking

zed-028

does it start when you bridge the terminals of the solenoid?

redneckjoe

ignition timing possibly move to over-advanced posistion, putting a strain on the starter?
does it crank slow when you get it to crank?


and is your ground directly on the block? not a bracket.

Turbok9

I will try this, if I can locate my multimeter. Haven't seen it in months... ha.

Turbok9

If I only connect the battery cable, yes. I can also turn her over this way using a test lead from batt to solenoid.

Turbok9

She cranks fine and starts and runs just dandy WHEN she cranks.

You know, I'll have to go double check that neg cable. I'm thinking it may be bolted to the back of the AC (Pass side) mount bracket. Good catch. If it is where I think it is, I'll move it. Will check when I get home tonight and update.

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

First post, jumped and wouldn't start. Did I miss-read something there?

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

Did you ever get this resolved?

Turbok9

Nope!

Still sitting in the driveway up on stands. But, haven't had much time to tinker between rain, freezing weather, and work. Going to remove the starter, cables, etc and start from square one and go back through everything step by step, starting with a bench test and making sure new battery is at 100%. I'll be monitoring battery drain as I go.

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

See this thread. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ick-click.html


I know you said you bought a new starter but so did this member. Good idea to go over all your cables and connections. Check voltages with your meter grounded to the starter, this will indicate whether or not your starter is grounded good to the block. Sometimes shims corrode or the block / starter are painted at the mating surfaces causing a bad starter ground. GL!

hockeyman48

Keep in mind that the crimped end terminals on both the positive and negative cables can corrode internally,naked to the eye and have enough resistance to case this problem.Next time it fails to start (click click) try connecting a jumper cable from battery negative to the engine block on a clean area.This will duplicate a new ground cable(redundant) to block. Try the same .....positive jumper cable from battery positive to starter battery post.Basic cable substitution.Also are you sure alternator is providing amperage as well as voltage? I have also seen high resistance between starter and engine block (mated surface) cause erratic start/crank issues. Try a temp jumper cable from battery negative to a clean surface/bolt/etc on starter motor itself to check for that issue. Good Luck.

Turbok9

SOLVED.

Since 2011 the engine ground has been in the same location, never had an issue until this time. Moved the engine ground, fixed. Tried this before, must have been another "bad" spot... for whatever reason. Had hit with sandpaper and cleaned wherever I grounded to. I'm just sitting here like, WTF, but it's all good now.

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear you got it going! Also, thanks for reporting the results, too many threads left hanging without results. Again, great you got her goin!