Let's put one to rest
05-23-2015, 06:25 PM
#51
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI L98
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" with 4.11
Re: Let's put one to rest
I was looking at HSR and some other injection options, but its too much money for me to spend right now. I wish I could upgrade a piece at a time. I was also thinking about the vortec head swap using the Scoggin dickey intake, but that's pricey when I figure in all the details. I wonder what the 1.5 roller rocker upgrade would do for me? Would the new parts cause some unforeseen problem with the rest of the well "broken-in" valvetrain?
I have a 75-150hp NOS wet-shot. It has a plate that fits between the TB and plenum that plumbs to the fuel and n20 solenoids. The fuel solenoid is plumbed to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Its a simple system with different jets you can install in the TB plate to adjust HP. I have an arming switch (on dash) that runs to a relay and a micro switch on a bracket near the TB that gets activated at WOT.
I can not say enough how great this kit has been. Its simple and analog and has worked perfectly for 15 years. It will put your car into a whole new weight class of who you can race and win. Get a bottle heater if you want to be consistent. Go straight to the 150 shot and you will shave 1 to 1.5 seconds. The only thing that sucks is a bottle will only get you about 5-6 passes before it gets too low. Its like $10 a race.
If you ran 13.5 on your one and only pass, im guessing you can run at least 13.3 or better. Get some drag radials and drop them to 18-20psi and do a good burnout. You might see a 12.99 in perfect conditions
I have a 75-150hp NOS wet-shot. It has a plate that fits between the TB and plenum that plumbs to the fuel and n20 solenoids. The fuel solenoid is plumbed to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Its a simple system with different jets you can install in the TB plate to adjust HP. I have an arming switch (on dash) that runs to a relay and a micro switch on a bracket near the TB that gets activated at WOT.
I can not say enough how great this kit has been. Its simple and analog and has worked perfectly for 15 years. It will put your car into a whole new weight class of who you can race and win. Get a bottle heater if you want to be consistent. Go straight to the 150 shot and you will shave 1 to 1.5 seconds. The only thing that sucks is a bottle will only get you about 5-6 passes before it gets too low. Its like $10 a race.
If you ran 13.5 on your one and only pass, im guessing you can run at least 13.3 or better. Get some drag radials and drop them to 18-20psi and do a good burnout. You might see a 12.99 in perfect conditions
05-23-2015, 10:52 PM
#52
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 355
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10 bolt 3.42 posi
Re: Let's put one to rest
I was looking at HSR and some other injection options, but its too much money for me to spend right now. I wish I could upgrade a piece at a time. I was also thinking about the vortec head swap using the Scoggin dickey intake, but that's pricey when I figure in all the details. I wonder what the 1.5 roller rocker upgrade would do for me? Would the new parts cause some unforeseen problem with the rest of the well "broken-in" valvetrain?
I have a 75-150hp NOS wet-shot. It has a plate that fits between the TB and plenum that plumbs to the fuel and n20 solenoids. The fuel solenoid is plumbed to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Its a simple system with different jets you can install in the TB plate to adjust HP. I have an arming switch (on dash) that runs to a relay and a micro switch on a bracket near the TB that gets activated at WOT.
I can not say enough how great this kit has been. Its simple and analog and has worked perfectly for 15 years. It will put your car into a whole new weight class of who you can race and win. Get a bottle heater if you want to be consistent. Go straight to the 150 shot and you will shave 1 to 1.5 seconds. The only thing that sucks is a bottle will only get you about 5-6 passes before it gets too low. Its like $10 a race.
If you ran 13.5 on your one and only pass, im guessing you can run at least 13.3 or better. Get some drag radials and drop them to 18-20psi and do a good burnout. You might see a 12.99 in perfect conditions
I have a 75-150hp NOS wet-shot. It has a plate that fits between the TB and plenum that plumbs to the fuel and n20 solenoids. The fuel solenoid is plumbed to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Its a simple system with different jets you can install in the TB plate to adjust HP. I have an arming switch (on dash) that runs to a relay and a micro switch on a bracket near the TB that gets activated at WOT.
I can not say enough how great this kit has been. Its simple and analog and has worked perfectly for 15 years. It will put your car into a whole new weight class of who you can race and win. Get a bottle heater if you want to be consistent. Go straight to the 150 shot and you will shave 1 to 1.5 seconds. The only thing that sucks is a bottle will only get you about 5-6 passes before it gets too low. Its like $10 a race.
If you ran 13.5 on your one and only pass, im guessing you can run at least 13.3 or better. Get some drag radials and drop them to 18-20psi and do a good burnout. You might see a 12.99 in perfect conditions
I have the SuperRam on mine. I picked it up for under 900 bucks, complete, cleaned, and even included 24 lbs injectors and new gaskets.
I think you'll be fine to throw some rockers on it. Plenty of people done it before with no probs.
That is the same nitrous setup I have. I plan to run it at 125. 150 is borderline of where you should start worrying about some forged pistons.
THANK YOU!! I've had this argument so many times about what it can run. I'm glad you understand that it was my one and only run, and I never got to tweak a thing. It was meant to be a baseline run of how it would do on the street, so no tweaks, and I left at 1,000 RPM. If I would have known I wasn't getting another pass, I would have went apeshit on the first run. All I need is a nice weather day with low DA, and I should be able to do 13.2/13.3 without messing with anything. Here is my mods list.
Engine- Accel/Lingenfelter SuperRam intake
Ram Air intake box w/K&N air filter
24 lb Bosch design III injectors
Accel 58 MM throttle body
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
PCMforLESS tuned chip
160 degree thermostat
Hypertech 176 on/166 off fan switch
Hedman headers
Hedman Y pipe
Flowmaster 80 series muffler
Milodon high flow water pump
Champion 3 core aluminum radiator
Hayden #678 tranny cooler
March underdrive pulleys
Goodyear hi miler hoses
EGR deleted
AIR pump deleted
Cats deleted
TB coolant bypass
MSD streetfire ignition box
NGK G power plugs
MSD Streetfire wires
Accel cap and rotor
Hypertech 53K volt coil
Suspension/brakes- Poly. swaybar endlinks
Poly. trans. mount
KYB GR2 Struts
Spohn tubular rear lower control arms
Spohn tubular panhard bar
'00 Camaro SS 3.42 posi rear diff w/ 12" discs
Drilled/Slotted front rotors w/ ceramic pads
Exterior- Ram air II hood
Blacked out side markers with 2668x bulbs
Blacked out taillights with 1157HP and 2396 bulbs
Interior/Electronics- Pioneer x65bt head unit
Escort Passport 8500 x50 radar detector with Live! premium
Alert 2 way remote start/keyless entry/alarm
Galaxy S4 phone mounted for internet, bluetooth, radar detector control, and entertainment.
05-24-2015, 12:26 AM
#53
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI L98
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" with 4.11
Re: Let's put one to rest
I was exaggerating a bit on the oil consumption. It's probably a half qt. I think most of it from where the dip stick tube goes into the block. It leaves a few drips wherever I park. I get a small puff of smoke when I start it up after it sits for a day. I have used Mobil 1 synthetic since I bought it. Always 5w-30 except for one time I used 0 weight, but it leaked more.
We do have mostly the same mods. Except for gears and the super ram. I tried 3.42, 3.73, 4.10 gears. I think each step higher was good for .1 seconds, but I wouldn't recommend 4.10 's for long highway driving especially on 70 mph interstate drive with the 700r4. The 4.10s are fun in town and up to 60 mph because it takes advantage of all the low end torque from the TPI. It's a stump puller from 1500 to 4500 rpm. I think the super ram has a way better power band above 3500 and the 3.42 gears would be best. The n20 compliments my combo by giving me the air flow I need where my stock TPI is running out of steam. It's like 2 different cars. Lol I wash I had that power on tap all the time. You will love the nitrous.
We do have mostly the same mods. Except for gears and the super ram. I tried 3.42, 3.73, 4.10 gears. I think each step higher was good for .1 seconds, but I wouldn't recommend 4.10 's for long highway driving especially on 70 mph interstate drive with the 700r4. The 4.10s are fun in town and up to 60 mph because it takes advantage of all the low end torque from the TPI. It's a stump puller from 1500 to 4500 rpm. I think the super ram has a way better power band above 3500 and the 3.42 gears would be best. The n20 compliments my combo by giving me the air flow I need where my stock TPI is running out of steam. It's like 2 different cars. Lol I wash I had that power on tap all the time. You will love the nitrous.
05-24-2015, 09:50 PM
#54
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI L98
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" with 4.11
Re: Let's put one to rest
Sounds like our cars run about the same, just with different mods and noticeable differences. You have done more weight reduction than me (I still have working A/C for example), and are using 4.11's. If you got rid of the stock TPI for an aftermarket and had it tuned, it would probably run some pretty impressive times. I have only gotten one pass in mine, but it did a 1.91 60' on old worn out street tires, and ran a 13.54 down the 1/4 in a 1729 DA. I also don't run out of steam at 130, it just keeps friggin going until I have to let go before it gets too floaty, which is around 145(I'm working on that problem soon). How big of a nitrous shot are you using? I have a system here, just haven't installed it yet.
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