88greyiroc

ok my problem is i own a 1988 iroc 350 tpi the car is wonderful and all but i have this problem where the car runs really rich and stinks but no codes come up and the guy who checked my o2 sensor says it still within speck . ever since i put my new accell plug wires and super coil on my car every so often will not runn it will turn over and start but then stall the only way to keep it runnin is to hold the gas to the floor and dončt let off and after a while it will keep itself goin the check engine light is on the whole time its doin this but when it acts good again the light goes off and the mechanic said he cančt trace it unless the light is on . and my car has a 350tpi with a 2.77 rearend and you would think when you matted the car from a dead stop it would lay a big patch and smoke the tires well mine doesnt it sorta bogs then takes off fast . i also forgot to mention when all that stalling takes place the oil pressure goes down to 30 and its usually at 45 and when i drive the car 70mph usually the car idles 1500 but when its acting up it idles at 500rpm at 70mph i have never really heard of it before . and somethin that caught my eye tonight was my battery guage jumpin all around i didnčt think the needles moved that much could it be that my altenator is bad and not sendin enough power to the battery to give a good spark and advice at all on this will help out i am in desperate need of help and i was wonderin if there was any way to tell if the previous owner gutted the cadilac converter cause that could be plugged too .

JoelOl75

Get another mechanic. If you set a code it should store it for a period of time (I think 50 restarts, but don't quote me) after the light goes out.

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

Yea I agree get rid of the mechanic. you can trace the code and actually get them yourself if you really want to. The only thing that you will need is a paper clip bent in the shape of a U. Then take the cover off of the ALDL or the black box under the dash under the steering wheel. Take the paper clip and "jump" the upper right 2 terminals (A & B) Almost forgot you will need the car in the "on" position before doing this. Then once it is in the on position jump it like I said and wait for the SES light to flash once then twice about 3 times after that it will flash some more. For example for a code 33 it will flash 3 times then pause then 3 more times. Then when all of the codes have flashed it will flash 1 time then 2 times for a code 12.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml
go to the bottom of this page and you will get all of the instructions you need. After you pull the codes post them here and I am sure someone can help you figure out how to fix them. Hopefully that makes some sense. Good Luck.

james_fearn

I've had a check engine light come on many, many times without any codes showing up. It happens.


James

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1985 Z-28, 350 TPI, T-Tops, edelbrock 6085 heads, ZZ4 cam, accel base/runners & 24 lb/hr inj., ported plenum, everything gasket matched, crane AFPR, SLP 1 5/8 headers, single 3" flowmaster catback, 3" Catco cat, modified tranny, 165 ECM & ARAP code, MSD 6AL/wires, edelbrock STB, Spohn SFC, GW "wonderbar"

87tpi420

if it started when you put the new coil in...put the stock one back in for awhile and see what happens, and make sure you are not hitting coil wires on anything (shorting them i mean)
also you said you changed your plugs and wires? did you proerly gap them? made sure plug boots were all the way on? i know it is simple stuff but it may contribute to the problem. and i allmost forgot......get a new mechanic!!!

http://people.ne.mediaone.net/gdm

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87 z28 bowtie aluminum 420small block dry sump crower lt. wt. knife edged crank oliver lt wt rods brodix track 1's super ram intake slp 1 3/4 headers accel dfi art carr 700 r4 3.42 gears ssm sub frame/ladder bars.....other parts on the way ,soon to be finished!! couple more weeks!!!

[This message has been edited by 87tpi420 (edited July 22, 2001).]

88greyiroc

i forgot to mention too while all that stuff happens the cars volt meter is goin nuts up and down if it was the coil you would think it would do it all the time but its every so often. also i am puttin break shoes on my car the top of the left rear rotor has a little lip on it the rest dont i can still put the new shoes on over that right. as soon as it comes up again i am gonna try and pull the code myself.

PETE

iTrader: (1)

any monkey can gett a code from your ecm find someone that can that'll be a good place to start

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87 trans am,gm crate 350(4 bolt mains 10to1),L98 aluminum heads,LT4 hot cam,slp runners,slp 1 5/8 headers,3in.y-pipe,edelbrock base,hi flo cat,air foil,afpr,as&m ported plenum,gutted airbox,t-5 tranny w/centerforce clutch and a 3.27 9bolt(11.9in. brakes),ed wright's fastchip,relocated iat sensor,160 fan switch,tb bypass,accel supercoil,cap& rotor,hollowed maf,slp 3in. catback,a/c delete.

shooting for 13's!!!!!!!

14.10@97mph w/2.01 60'(auto ET)

slp catback is finally on!!!
fastchip prom is in.
kicks you in the A.S.S at wot.
FLOWMASTER S.U.C.K.S