Iroczmike87

Hey guy, just wondering if anyone has seen this before. Im starting to get frustrated. I have a 1987 Iroc Z with a 305 TPI, the only mods done are headers, MSD pro billet dist., MSD coil and MSD wires. The car runs excelent but every once in awhile ( once or twice a week ) after the car is shut off and I try to restart it wont. It will start but runs very rough for about 10 seconds then dies. i can do this over and over but no go. It seems like it might be running rich. If i let the car sit 20-30 minutes it starts up just fine. i dont get it. It doesent do it everytime i shut it off and start it nor is the car getting real hot. I have ruled out vapour lock in my lines but not sure if the fuel pump is supposed to prime every time the key is turned to "on" because mine does not. thanks!

grasshoppertym

i also have an 87 iroc with a 5.0tpi that was having the same issue, and it was flooding bad, and then would not start till it cooled down. i had it checked out by my local hot rod shop. so what was wrong was...i had a vacuum line broken at the fuel pump regulator so it was getting too much fuel pressure. it also had the temp sensor fitting broke off so it was reading -45c so it was dumping way too much fuel in. they also found that my wire from the spark control modual was rusted green and falting when hot. i also needed a full tune up including plugs wires cap and rotor, and oil change for a grand total of $986. i am guessing you might need the spark control modual. but check over everything else too. mine was obviously neglegted by the previous owner before i got it so don`t get too scared

Iroczmike87

Alright, thanks a lot ill look into that when i have time here. Im going to install a fuel pressure guage just to check that i have fuel pressure when this all happens. im sure i do because if use a screw driver to push the shrader valve on the rail I have tons of fuel spraying out. It is definitly something that is failing hot so i will look into that and keep you posted. thanks!

darbysan

Heat can really affect the Ignition Control Module, especially if it was installed without the Heat Sink Compound. They can be tested at your local auto parts store, but make them test it multiple times to get it good and hot.

Iroczmike87

Ok thank you. I will pull it off and get it checked. Seeing as the entire distributor cost an arm and a leg and its only 5 months old i will just take it back to where i bought it and raise hell. So would the module over heating cause a no spark condition or would i still get a very weak spark? in my case the car will usualy start fine then after about 2 seconds get real rough then stall out, then if i try and start again it just hardly fires, smells of raw fuel and chokes out. and this condiont does not happen all the time. most of the time the car starts fine hot, but every once in awhile i get this joyous event. And when i do get it the car just needs to cool and its fine. i guess my second question is does the fuel pump run its 3 second prime every single time? because i have also noticed that when this happens i can hear the soleniod under the hood click on then off but no fuel pump. sorry just a little side thought.

cronsformula350

if your MAF relays are going, they will also make your car not start. If your car runs them doesn't run, it probly isn't your coil module, you have spark, fuel pressure, and TPS voltage to check, if your start isn't spinning the engine faster than 200rpm, thats the threshold where your ignition picks up, and once its going the computer takes over. SO check all your ****, then go from there

irockid43

Having similar problems, did you fix your problem??

ctd

No one ever lets you know if their issue was fixed. Everyone tries to help and then they don't post their final outcome. Kind of selfish since other people have this issue. I have this issue with a 1987 IROC-Z with only 6,800 miles on it. Car is beautiful except for the warm start issue, but no one posts the answer to how they fixed it.