PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Rear end is out! Not really any problems removing it either I'm happy to say. All bolts were soaked in WD40 for 2 days, so that was a help. Also removed the old catback. Dropping the fuel tank tomorrow to replace the stock fuel pump with a Walbro. Then I can put the Moser rear in, and get everything set up before the center section goes in. Throwing a coat of paint on all the stock pieces (lca's, panhard, sway bar, mounting tabs). Eventually I'll upgrade to Spohn/UMI/BMR parts, but not now. The only other thing I can think of is replacing the rear brake lines, just for peace of mind. Those are my plans until the motor and tranny come back!

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Did you look into getting a adjustable prop valve for the disc brakes? It may help for as little as they cost.

If you replace the brake lines just be careful and use the right iso bubble flares.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

I just bought a used OEM disc/disc prop valve for $25. I want the stock look, but if I had to pay more for an OEM, I just would've gotten an adjustable.

I am happy to report that today is the turning point of the build! I pulled the gas tank last night, and that was the last thing to be removed. Now I get to start putting things back in! Working on the motor tonight, then probably putting in the new Walbro fuel pump and getting the tank back in. Once everything is painted, I can have the whole rear suspension and housing done. Although I said I was sticking with stock suspension parts, I'm kinda sorta looking into used Spohn LCA's and PHB. What are your guys experience with relocation brackets? The car will not be lowered, should I pick some up anyway?

Also just remembered I need new rockers. General consensus seems to be to stay away from aluminum, but I may get some Comp Ultra Golds for the lifetime warranty. I didn't really want to spend $300 on rockers, but they all seem to be around that. Anyone have experience with these? Trying to stick them under stock center bolt valve covers, and I'm reading that it can be done with minor modifications to the valve cover.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

You want the stock look on the prop valve??? LOL i think your car is far from the stock look under that hood or on the outside with Dr's. But im happy to hear that your progressing in the build.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Actually under the hood it'll look pretty stock, just cleaned up. Only REAL signs are the runners, AFPR, CAI, and line lock. DRs on the back, and no exhaust coming out the rear are the only signs from the outside that it's not stock (minus the cam of course).

Crank is in the block now. Should be throwing the pistons in tomorrow if the weather cooperates, damn freezing rain. Estimate of late next week to get the shortblock back, and I can assemble the rest at home. Heads are being painted now too. I'm on 3 coats of black, and the previous orange is still showing up here and there. Ugh! Not sure if I'll get the gas tank back in tonight or not, kinda wore out after a long day.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Update,

heads are assembled, bringing them home Monday. Unfortunately I need longer pushrods. Stock flat-tappet length aren't long enough apparantly. Getting a pushrod checker to determine exactly what they need to be. Shortblock is finished other than oil pump, timing chain cover (need a new one), cam plug, and balancer. I could have this thing home as early as Tuesday! Also going with a set of Comp Ultra Gold rockers. Even though they're more expensive than I'd like, they have a lifetime warranty. This is the first and last time I'll buy rockers for a SBC! Making a trip up to Summit this weekend, seeing as I have over $100 in coupons/discounts. Parts list includes: Rockers, head gaskets, battery switch, pushrod checker, pushrods, trans cooler. Hopefully the last trip to Summit I'll make for this build.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Rear end housing in and all bolted up.


Comp Cams Ultra Gold aluminum roller rockers, 1.6 ratio.


Finished lower intake base ports.

The ports on the intake are actually too big on the head side. We had to epoxy the head ports on the base so there wasn't turbulence, it was that much of a noticeable difference. We could have opened up the heads more, but they are already assembled and recently painted, and I think 200cc intake runners are enough for what I'm doing at the moment. In theory, going into a smaller head port should increase air velocity from the intake.

I did go with the Ultra Golds, I got them for $280. Not bad for a lifetime warranty. Now to see if they clear the stock valve covers. It appears aftermarket head manufacturers raise the valve cover rail area to account for roller rockers. I'm hoping that the extra high rails plus a thick valve cover gasket will be enough for my stock valve covers to clear the rockers. Gotta love centerbolts, not.

Managed to wrestle the Moser 9" housing into the car today. All bolted up with shocks, springs, panhard, and lower control arms. Panhard and lca's are temporary though, UMI is sending me some parts next week All that's left to do is bend new brake line for it, and finish up the center section. Realisticly, looking at next weekend for the rear to be completely done.

Picking up the motor next week instead of this week. I had planned to take the shortblock home Thursday, but instead I'm taking the longblock home probably Friday. Saves me a bit of work at home, and I'm not quite ready for the motor yet anyway. Transmission should be done next weekend as well. I'm actually really close to having this thing done.

I finished up more of the little stuff through the week. Transmission cooler is mounted, battery relocation box is mounted, all that's left is to get some positive cable and that will be done. Headers are in the process of being bead blasted as I type this. The only thing that will stop me from my April 1st deadline is the subframe connectors. I can't even order steel until I get the motor and headers in to see what I have to work with. I had an idea before, but that all went out the window going to longtubes. I've accepted the fact that my ground clearance will suck lol. That's all for now!

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

If you relocated that battery in the trunk make sure to put in the exterior shut off switch. Dont wana tick those officials off when you get teched. Also make sure you get that drive shaft loop on.

Those intakes look ok but I see some diviots here and there that can be smoothed out. Its not the volume of area that a car likes, its the smoothness of the metal. IE think of sliding down a water slide with bumps on it or sliding down a water slide that is perfectly smooth. See what Im going at?? I am not talking about smooth as having tecture(portin/polishing)... im talking about a flat surface and a surface that is joining to it, as flowing as possible. Mainly the walls of the curve on the ports.

Keep it up bud. Im hitting the track in a little over 3 weeks then in 6 weeks ill be at norwalk. See ya then.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Check out the rear end pic again Mark, see if you can find my kill switch

Yeah I know what you mean about the ports though. You'd have to see it in person, but it's incredibly smooth in there. There are two circular spots in there that appear to be manufacturing flaws, but I can't do anything about those. Mostly everything else is too thin to hit, or has a bolt that goes into it lol. Are you maybe seeing some dirty parts of it? Keep in mind this is before it went into the parts washer, so it'll look better once it comes out.

How was your cruising in the Camaro today? Not gonna lie, I was a bit jealous!

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

You got me..lol I didnt look that hard for it.

The drive was fun. Drove her 130 miles and no problems at all. Ended up getting about 20Mpgs on the t-pike. But driving 75mph@ close to 3k rpms isnt the funnest exspecially when the car is loud....lol Took nate for a ride. He said my "honda" is a fun ride....lol I detailed it and now shes good and clean for the first race.

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

looking good man!!!! That rear end looks familiar

cuisinartvette

Wouldnt worry about touching the intake anymore....air speed in there is going to take a huge hit as is. Will have to go back and read the whole thread to see what youre trying to achieve with this.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Lets see the pics of the new motor together!! I cant wait to see that car run again.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

It does, doesn't it? Hoping to get it completely installed this weekend. Finally got the brake line flaring kit from the shop, so the brakes can be finished up. Axles can go in, since my dad is finishing up the center section today. Unfortunately, my UMI lower control arms, relocation brackets, and adjustable panhard bar won't be here until Monday. No big deal though, I'm pretty sure I can swap them in under an hour, not including welding the relocation brackets. Then I'm finished up in the back half of the car!

I think I've achieved what I was going for, which is having that area being a secondary plenum-type thing. This should have properties similar to a Miniram intake, according to Alan. We actually had to epoxy the head ports on the intake because they were so much bigger than the Dart head ports. I'm confident this base will flow enough for a 400+ inch motor. Now the runners on the other hand, it's not looking good. I did what I could porting them without cutting them in half, but it just isn't what I was hoping for. There isn't enough time to cut them and have them welded shut, because I haven't found anyone local that has the ability to do that, and keep it all straight. I can say without a doubt that either the 48mm throttle body or the SLP runners are the restriction here. I'm planning on building a set of custom runners throughout the year with some mandrel bends, so they may find their way onto the car over next winter or late this year.

Ask and you shall receive! Brought it home Thursday

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Looking sweet sndrew. Get her together and tune her. Only a short month left and you can I can hit the strip with the thirdgens.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Updates?

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Package from UMI the other day.


Installed!


Went ahead and got a GoPro. Free shipping on it, so I saved about $15 lol.


Brought the transmission home today. Built for 600+ hp. Huge thanks to Mark Frazier.


Almost omplete center section.


The gear wear pattern. Dad tweaked it just a bit, and it's ready to go in the car now.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Nice. I cant wait to see the car in action and the go pro do its thing. Im jelous.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Update, got the rear end on the ground today. Everything just needs torqued to spec. Also raised the front up to drill out the broken trans crossmember bolts. Went to get the motor and trans bolted together, and of course dropped a nut down into the lifter valley, which rolled into the oil drainbacks. Now I get to make a special trip to the parts store for a new gasket for pulling the pan.


In other news, I'm looking into a 4th gen WS6, LS1/T56. Going to the bank today to see if they'll give me a loan. Mark, this one is up near you, I may have to pay you a visit! On the flipside, it's been years since I drove a stick. It's going to be rough the first few times I drive it lol.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Update:

Nice string of bad luck lately. After dropping a nut down the motor, I cracked the trans case bolting it up. Queue up trans #4. Cut out a bit of the subframe too, where the trans crossmember bolts are. Back in December, I snapped the remaining bolt off the driver side. The first one was broke off before I got the car. Drilling them out had no effect, so now we cut the subframe piece out and are putting in a whole new piece.

Also, got denied for a loan for the 4th gen. 3 days later, applied for another one, approved on the spot. Called the guy up, and it was sold. Go figure. Still looking!

If all goes well (yeah right), dropping the motor in tonight.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

so did you get it in?

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Wow, it's been about a month since I've updated this. Car is pretty much done. Doing the cam break-in as of tonight, and could be taking it to the track Wednesday. On the bad side, I missed the first 3 races of the year, 2 of which were points races. I did however race my Z34, and it's done me good so far. It likes to move 2 tenths between rounds, but I've still been going rounds in it.

I achieved my goal of looking stock. To someone that's not a third generation f-body enthusiast, there's not much that gives it away. Had to go with tall valve covers, so I went with some that have the same ridges like stock covers. They look stock, but polished and taller. SLP runners are also in plain view. 255 Mickey's on the back, but those are all that gives this thing away. Until I fire it up of course. With dual 3" exhaust that comes down under the trans crossmember, ground clearance is almost non-existant.

As far as the trans and rear swap, a few things should be noted. Even with a 9" tailshaft, modifications are needed to adapt the trans mount to the crossmember. My dad did an awesome bit of fabrication with the stock crossmember. He also moved the torque arm mount to the crossmember as well. A few hours of measuring, cutting, and welding saved us about $400. The Moser 9" swap was not quite all bolt in, but probably the easiest. The driveshaft sticks out of the tailshaft about 1/2"-3/4" further than stock. A local driveshaft guy told me this wouldn't be an issue. I reused my existing shifter and cable, I just notched the bracket holes on the shifter linkage where it bolts to the pan. The 700R4 and TH350 pan bolt patterns are different, but by notching the ends, I had enough material that a bolt will hold the bracket in place. A mechanical to electric speedometer converter is needed if running an ecm of any kind, due to the parameters in the tune that are speed activated. I bought one from TPIParts.net, for roughly $90. The 7.5" rear sway bar brackets will not work with the 9" either. The axle tubes on the 9" are bigger than the 7.5". To solve this, I used 3" exhaust clamps. Simple solution, although the sway bar needs moved off the housing. It rubs ever so slightly. We also welded on LCA relocation brackets on the rear. While not a challenge, this required modifications to the brake line brackets which fit over the existing LCA mounts. The LCARBs are too wide to fit the brake line bracket. We cut them up, and extended them to make up the difference. The only other obstacle was the U-joint on the driveshaft. A conversion U-joint is needed, 3R to whatever the pinion side is. We ended up torching the old U-joint off, since the injected plastic makes it a pain to remove the stock U-joint easily.

Also have notes on Hooker 2210 header install, aswell as battery relocation to the trunk. Headers were about the same annoyance level as the 2055s. Most of these are in the sticky in the exhaust forum, but here's my experience. 2210s MUST be installed from the bottom. I had to clearance the very tip of the A-arm on the driver side. On the passenger side, I had to clearance the tip of the A-arm, aswell as notching the K-member slightly. The passenger side MUST be installed at the same time as the starter. For me, a stock starter fit, but just barely. It's about 1/4" from the headers in about 3 different locations. A ministarter is on my list. That starter feels like about 100 lbs while trying to install it at the same time as the header. It's also a HUGE, let me put emphasis on that, HUGE pain to connect the starter wires to their posts. The wires alone took me an hour. Even then I had to restart, as the wire from the battery to the starter was too close to the #6 primary. Put some heat sleeve on it, and started the process over. Be warned, unless you plan on running open headers without an oxygen sensor, you will have very little ground clearance. As for battery relocation, I ran 1 gauge positive wire from the battery in the spare tire spot to the battery kill switch, then back along the floor trim on the passenger side, through the firewall and straight to the starter. 15 feet was VERY close, I didn't even trim the wire. I just skinned it to put ends on. I would recommend 20 feet. I ran 1 gauge negative from the battery down through the floor to the subframe. I then ran 1 gauge from the trans crossmember to the starter mounting bolt. In hindsight, I should've skipped the frame part, and ran wire straight from the starter bolt to the negative terminal. Maybe next time though. For the alternator, I ran 6 gauge (existing amp wire) to the hot side of the kill switch. That way, the circuit can be broken by the kill switch, as per NHRA rules. The cold side of the switch goes to the starter, which runs to the fuse box, where the ecm and fuel pump are wired in. The car will not start with the switch off, and the switch will kill all electronics with the car running. Kinda ruins my radio presets, but aw well.

I'll upload pics of everything before too long, it's been a busy month. I've spent 4-6 hours a night after work out in the garage, and it's finally getting there. Motor, trans, and rear end swap completed in about 4 months!

no new tires

sub-

RS Chris

^^ How many old threads are you going to revive?

no new tires

Iv marking the 1s that im reading.

-laptop broke so im using my work computer plus my xbox at home
(junk)