Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

So instead of trying to figure out why your new 350 didn't run any better than tour tired 305, you compensated by swapping gears that are too low for a tpi?

Instead of fixing the problem, you simply masked it.

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

RonB1979, Where in Michigan are you located?

RonB1979

Now my throttle body is worn out and I need a new one. Is there anywhere to get a replacement 48mm one or will an aftermarket 52mm one work on my stock motor?

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

There are some EBAY vendors that sell rebuilt stock ones that are ported to 52mm, although I have not personally verified the quality of those parts.

RonB1979

I understand that I can get a 52mm one. Will that work on my stock engine?

RonB1979

How are the gears to low for a TPI? I never mentioned my tire size. I have 24" rims on it but I never said that because everybody would tell me thats why its slow. It runs at 2800rpm at 85mph and now I can do a burnout and could even whip donuts if I wanted to.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the 52mm TB will work fine. It's probably overkill since you don't need that much air coming in through the throttle body. If your plenum is not ported to match the 52mm opening in the TB, then a portion of the air will hit a wall and may actually reduce power. My plenum is already ported for a 52mm throttle body opening although I have not purchased a 52mm throttle body yet as I have no use for it on my 305 even though it's modified.

RonB1979

I definitely don't want to lose power. I'm going to contact Doctor Injector in Washington from what I heard they can rebuild my stock one and they can test and clean my injectors too.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

You obviously missed the point.

That's okay, just keep throwing money at the problem, ballin!

RonB1979

I already had the gears anyway since I needed them to compensate for the bigger wheels. I also installed rear LCA relocation brackets which gives me better traction on takeoff. Both those things together made a big difference in the low end performance.

When I attempted to adjusted the idle & TPS I noticed that my throttle body doesn't reach WOT unless I wiggle it. Sometimes it sticks open.

I'm on here asking for help so I don't have to keep throwing money at it. I can't pay a shop to experiment with different things like adjusting the timing and stuff. Plus I don't want to leave my car sitting at some shop for them to play around with it. I don't have the time to play around with it myself either. Also if I adjust the timing don't I need to reprogram my chip for that.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I didn't read the whole threads.

My guess, timing not set right and no you don't need to reprogram your chip to set timing.

Whats the fuel pressure? Don't the TPI engines run at alittle higher fuel pressure than the TBI?

Valves not adjusted right, maybe a tick too tight and hanging open some, killing off power.

Think you said shop rebuilt the engine... If so what head gaskets did they use? If the used the common rebuilder 4.166 x .041" gaskets thats a big part of the prob. Killed off your compression and quench height. IIRC GM used a think .018" head gasket, and myself I use fel pro 1094 4.100 x .015 head gaskets

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

My point is you have been given a whole lot of advice on what to check, but instead, you just added gears, which unless you are running a 31" tire, are way to low for a stock tpi

How tall are your tires?


Checking things like timing and tps sensor takes a few minutes and if you don't have time to do it and don't want to pay a shop to do it, then you don't need a 25+ year old car.

As for you throttle body sticking and not going to full throttle, sounds like the shafts are worn and binding, you need to have it rebuilt, or spend a few hundred on a new one.

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

I hope you change the fuel pump for the TPI. TBI fuel pump won't give you enough fuel.

RonB1979

I don't know what the fuel pressure is but they did replace the pump with a bigger one.

I know they used fel-pro gaskets because I supplied those.

The motor was supposedly rebuilt before I bought it. This shop just honed the cylinders, grinded the crank, replaced rings and bearings, new timing chain, and something with the valves in the heads. I don't know anything about what pistons, rods, or heads I have.

RonB1979

I think my tires are around 28" tall. My transmission guy said it would be better for my tranny with the gears. The shop that built my motor said it would be ok.

I've done lots of things that people suggested. I adjusted the TPS, checked and cleaned the IAC, cleaned the MAF, I tried to adjust the detent cable but I don't think I did it right. I'll have my tranny guy look at that. After sitting last winter my car wouldn't start so I took it back to the shop and they said my distributor was bad. I don't know why they didn't put a new one in when they built the motor or how my car runs now if its bad. I'm going to get a new one then I'll try adjusting the timing.

I would pay a shop to work on my car if they knew what they where doing. This shop knew my throttle body was bad because they added an additional spring to help it return and didn't mention anything to me about getting a new one. I'm sending my throttle body to Dr. Injector to see if he can rebuild it. I'm also going to have them test and clean my injectors.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Yeah you got a basic overhauled jobber type rebuild, not a performance rebuild by any means.

You also went to a shop that tries to cut corners and make them more money.

My guess is you have the stock dish pistons in your engine along with the basic low cost rebuild parts.

As far as the head gaskets. The brand don't matter as much as the specs. Fel pro makes 22 different head gaskets for the gen 1 sbc. With gasket bore ranging from 4.080" to 4.250" and thickness from .015" to .071"

That big of difference will change compression ratio by more than 1.0:1


Your transmission cable is NOT a detent if you have a 700r4. The cable on the 700r4 is a TV (throttle valve) cable and it controls line pressure of transmission. If this is not adjusted/set to the correct place you can burn up your trans pretty quick.

The th-350 uses a detent cable and all it does is pull and force a 3 to 2 downshift really.

Do a leak down test on the engine. My guess is it's gonna have a pretty high leakdown rate as they just honed the cylinders and used stock size pistons, cheap rings, etc.

RonB1979

A mechanic friend of mine was supposed look it over and let me know what I needed but he had the motor for 6 months and didn't do anything with it so I took it to a shop just so I could get it done. I have too much time and money into the car just to let it sit.

How do I adjust the TV cable? I thought you just push in the button and pull the cable out but the whole housing moves with it.

padak

iTrader: (10)

Here is the thing he was trying to say.. whether or not the gears gave you better acceleration for your "burn outs", didn't fix the initial problem. The initial problem to you, may have been "can't do burn outs" but that's just the end result.

The initial problem is, SOMETHING is wrong with your motor because it's suppose to be a bigger, badder, torque machine compared to the tired old 305 TBI.

I won't even comment on the 24's...

RonB1979

Maybe there was nothing wrong in the first place other than not enough gear to turn them 24's. It was almost a year from when I last drove it with the 305 to the 350 swap. The 350 should have given me 60-70 more horsepower correct? I cant tell if it did or not but I do know that the gears made a big difference. Its just a street cruiser not a race car. I hardly ever go over 50. I just wanted to be able to lite up the tires when people pull up next to me laughing and telling me I cant do a burnout on them 24's and thinking I have a V6 because its an RS not an IROC. Now my car gets up and goes until about 45 then its slow picking up speed. Now that I realized my throttle body only opens up about half way that is probably the problem. I also had to cut some of the carped padding out because the gas pedal wasn't going all the way down and I think there's a little play in my throttle cable. I wanted to put the car on a dyno this past summer but all the other cars there had 600-800 horse I didn't want to compete with them.

DemonYusuke

To put it in perspective a stock tpi 5.7 350 will smoke 24's like butter if the engine is running properly. I think the guys on here think you simply tried to get around the problem by switching the gearing before getting the motor running properly.

You need to check your timing and your fuel pressure when the key is on and when under load. Auto part stores have fuel pressure gauges for around 40 bucks. The pressure should be around 40 to 45 psi.

As far as the tranny goes if it smokes it when your manually shifting and not when in overdrive then the tv cable is definitely out of adjustment.

Bigfoottpi11

You need to use ALL of the sensors for a 350 TPI, inlcuding KNOCK SENSOR (for the correct year 350), and the proper TUNE is essenstial!

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Yes I have a agree. I own a '91 firebird with the L98 350, 700r4, posi 3.23 rear end (car is for sale BTW) and it will smoke both tires like crazy. Easy 50' long marks, also chirps the tires going into second gear anytime with a WOT 1 to 2 shift.

Podium

iTrader: (2)

My 87 stock, worn out 305 TPI (2.73s) did that with a shift kit. Something is up with the OP's car. Unfortunately, I dont think we can diagnose this over the internet. Is anyone close to him that can check the simple things that were mentioned in this thread?



4.10s are way to high in an stock 350 tpi IMO. Like johnny said, you masked the problem.

Compression check
Fuel pressure
Timing
Casting numbers
Verify ECU
Sensors check
etc.....

BuzzLOL

. Do you still have the problem that it's weak off the line in OD, but strong in 1 ?? How about the other shifter positions such as 2 and D ?? I don't think the TV cable would affect that. Should work the same in all 4 shifter positions coming off the line... unless you have some kind of shift kit... or line lock... a transmission shop may drive it and tell you what's wrong for free... I don't think the '89 had the electronic computer-controlled transmission yet...

. Also sounds like the computer isn't advancing the ignition timing... you need the distributor that matches the TPI/computer setup...

. I assume you're around Detroit?
.

RonB1979

The main problem with my car was the throttle body. I replaced it with a BBK and that made a huge difference. I added a high flow water pump and 180 thermostat plus I put a new distributor in it. I set the timing at 6* the car runs great when its cold but after driving it an hour or two it lacks power. I was told that I should put the timing back at 0*

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

Leave the timing at 6* where it's supposed to be. Thats what I burned the chip to have, if you back the timing off, you're backing it off across all load points and it won't run properly.

At this point you have to get this car to someone who knows these cars and can fix it. It's that simple. You're going to continue to waste time and money with poor results unless you get an expert involved that knows how to diagnose problems and burn custom tunes. Your application is too unique to troubleshoot over the internet, and you admittedly don't have the skills/tools/time to do it yourself. If you want the car to run like it's supposed to, you have to get it to someone who can fix it, period. Nuff said.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Just like the BBK throttle body. Can't say I've ever seen a tpi throttle body go bad.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Who told you this lol? You need to to keep your base timing where your spark reference is, you can't bring it to 0 without bringing it to 0 in the prom as well. As for lacking power, that is because the ECM pulls timing when specific IAT's (intake air temps) are reached, and you're implying an hour or two of stop and go traffic. Bringing your timing to 0 in conjunction with high air temps will only equal one dog of an engine, as if the pulled timing from the high IAT's isn't enough, bringing it to 0 makes it even worse. Keep your base timing at 6* if that is what the prom was burned for and relocate your IAT sensor to an area before the throttle body, preferably a "birdcage" sensor while you're at it...

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

I've had one wear out on me. It just caused a high idle because the throttle shaft was sloppy and the blades weren't closing off the bores the same every time. I could have had it re-bushed and I'm sure it would have been fine.

I burned his chip for 6*. I've PM'd him and told him to keep it there. I've also told him tuning a car blind like this is unfaborable, but I'm doing my best.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

You are correct, and I was going to mention that. Yes, the shaft can wear out and give a high idle, but that is not what we are dealing with here, as far as I can tell.

RonB1979

The bushings where worn out plus the plastic part around the spring was broken. It wouldn't return on its own and would idle at around 2000 so someone put an extra spring on there to help it return. It would bind up and I would have to wiggle the throttle to get it to open up all the way. Plus there was a lot of slack in my throttle cable with the BBK there's no slack.

RonB1979

I'm going to get it tuned when I have time to do that but for now I'm just asking people their opinion on things I can do myself. I've talked to guys that build 1000hp engines that I'm sure know more than me. I understand they may not know about the TPI stuff that's why I'm asking for suggestions on here. I don't just do stuff without checking on here first but I think I've done everything that was suggested on here. I just installed a transmission temp gauge and after test driving it my temp was up over 290 the car performed just fine until the transmission reached over 220. I know that is way to hot so I'm having my transmission guy check it out tomorrow.

mmadden55

When the timing is set on these cars the est wire must be unplugged.

RonB1979

I lost oil pressure and my transmission wouldn't shift out of first gear all at the same time. I had the engine and trany pulled out and I have bad bearings, bad crank, and bad cam. I filed a lawsuit against the shop that built it and took my engine to someone who builds race engines. Now I just don't know if I should go with a stock cam and everything. I'm just looking for suggestions on what parts I should use. Also what I should do to upgrade the transmission. Should I use the corvette servo or billet servo should I use the transgo kit.

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

Unless you are going to get a custom tune, build it completely stock.

For the trans, a corvette servo and transgo kit should be fine as long as the rest of the trans is built properly. Also note, the proper adjustment of the TV cable is critical to trans performance and life.

RonB1979

[QUOTE=1MeanZ;5991175]Unless you are going to get a custom tune, build it completely stock.

I'm willing to get it tuned I just have no way of getting the car somewhere to get it tuned. Some guys claim they can tune it if they know what cam I'm using and the compression and other things I dont know if thats true. I think the block needs to be bored .40 over and I dont even know what pistons are stock or if my heads are stock. I'm thinking of just getting the software to tune it myself.

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

I've been saying this to you for a year now. If you really wanted to get the car tuned you'd find a way. Obviously you aren't actually serious about getting work done on the car. I've offered to work things out with you but you continue to say you "want the car tuned but can't get it anywhere" which is a lame BS excuse.

You will not get a proper tune through the mail, myself and others have told you that. Why you continue to think someone over the mail can tune the car is beyond me.

Tell the machine shop you want to end up with close to 9.5:1 compression, it's their job to pick the pistons based on what your goals are. If they are a race shop as you say they are this will be no problem for them. They can also tell you what heads you have, again if they can't, they aren't a competent shop.

If you're not going to get serious about getting the car tuned, build it completely stock, the engine shop can do that for you. That's why you are paying them...

RonB1979

Just so you know my truck is not capable of towing a trailer 400 miles at this time I haven't had time to fix it. I don't own a trailer so I would have to rent one. I have trouble just getting my car towed around town from the mechanic shop to the transmission shop to the body shop. I don't have time to bring the car to you and come back and pick it up. There's a couple shops in my area that tune the newer cars if I have to I will probably be better off just buying the software for them to tune it for me.

RonB1979

Anyone have any suggestions on a good transmission cooler? Whats a good size, style, or brand to use? Should I run it through the radiator or just the cooler?

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

B&M super cooler. Any stack plate design cooler like the super cooler will work the best. Tube and fin coolers do not cool as good.

Run trans lines into Rad, out of rad into cooler, out of cooler back into trans.

Mount the cooler on the bumper side of rad. Do not put cooler right against the rad., space it away from it at least 1/4".

RonB1979

Those are the ones I was looking into. I was told the 24,000 gvw would be the one to go with.

RonB1979

Is a derale transmission pan with the cooling tubes or an aluminum pan worth purchasing or would a good cooler be good enough?

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

A good cooler is all you should need.

I mean if it's a race car, very high stall converter, and every weekend at the track then yes the cooling pans and what not would be worth it.

For a performance based street/strip car.. NO, a good cooler will do it.

RonB1979

I was going to purchase one because they have a drain plug and a bung for the temp sender but when I realized the cost didn't know if it would be worth it.

RS Chris

To me it sounds like you just need to get rid of the car. You don't have time for this or that. Want everyone else to work on it. And if you can't do the work yourself how do you think you'll be able to tune it?

RonB1979

Sorry I work and have other things going on so I don't have time to do things. I don't want anyone to work on my car that's what my problem is. I can do the work myself in fact I did 95% of the work myself. I do bodywork in my garage so I cant exactly build a motor in a dusty garage plus I'm only 1 person so that's why I had a shop with a crew of guys do my motor so I could do other things.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

If you do body work, I guess you have a welder and maybe cutting torch.
If so you can add your own drain plug and temp sender bung for a couple of bucks to your stock pan.

I have done many myself for my own use and for other people. It's really pretty simple. I just use hardware store fittings.

You can tig weld or low amp mig weld, or braze the fittings in the pan.

RonB1979

I thought if I could find a pan on ebay or something it would be worth buying but not for $200 if its not needed. I already planned on putting a drain plug in my stock pan if I don't get another one. I wasn't sure about the extra capacity pans anyway. I don't want to hit anything. I have my temp sender in the pressure port now I like it there because its up out of the way so it doesn't get hit. I'm not sure if I get an accurate reading there but I would think you would want the sender in a hotter location so you would know if the fluid is getting too hot.

RonB1979

1MeanZ has been helping me but I would like to know what others opinions are. I upgraded my y pipe to a heddman I'm going to upgrade to a 3" hooker exhaust. I was thinking of building a 383 with my stock heads and intake or would I be better off with a 350 bored .60 over and aftermarket heads and maybe roller rockers. I dont have a lot of money since this is the second time my engine is being built. Just want to know what will give me the best bang for my buck.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I would take great heads all day long over 13 cid. On avg. most street type performance engines will only avg. out 1 to 1.5 HP per cubic inch.

So going from a 360 to a 383 is only 13 cid and will only gain you 13 to 20 HP.

A good set of heads will gain you 40-80 HP over your stock ones. Like say a set of vortec heads, you are looking at around a 35-45 HP gain. A set of Brodix IK heads around a 60 HP gain, a set of AFR heads around a 70-80 HP gain.

Heads are the #1 highest hp gain part (other than nitrous, turbo, supercharger) you can add.