gta892000

Trying to correctly hook up all the vac lines correctly

Most show cannister with
one big tube going to gas

the other big tube to big port on left side of plenum

Some diagrams show a smaller tube to the small port underneath
and a T to that bleeder solenoid under the coil

the cannister had a small line to the small port underneath plenum
where diags show a T going to the egr solenoid

Evap cannister has one broken wire and no trace of where it came from.
Any easy way to find it, or start at the computer and run a new one?

the big port on plenum for cannister was plugged with hose and bolt, and the cannister vac line went to the small port underneath only...the solenoid valve was not connected, the egr solenoid valve had its air release hole with a hose and screw plugging that...

trying to put it together correctly, but I wonder

Did someone do that to "fix" problems with either cannister solenoid, egr solenoid, egr by disabling most of it and just putting the can to the little port underneath, so it still sucked a bit of the fumes, but didn't cause enough vacuum leak to make it run poorly?

It ran great as it was.

Any comments or ideas why someone would have done that?

Where was the cannister originally mounted? Left side or right? This one has a custom K+N filter box on the left.

This evap can was on the right side, but now that I have the larger hose for the plenum port according to the diagram, and a fitting to scale down to the size on the cannister... I don't think I should run the hose to the firewall and around... or try to bend the hose into a U...(maybe get some elbows)... or put it on the left side somewhere

when I took it out, it was zip tied to the battery
Anyone have photos on where the 89 originally had the cannister?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The broken wire sounds like the egr temp sensor the black single wire comes out of the main harness on the passengers side. This can be responsible for the code 32. The egr solonoid gets a ported vacuum signal and may t under the throttlebody and go to the charcoal canister purge.http://keenparts.com/news/2011/07/19...sensor-switch/

http://keenparts.com/news/2011/07/19...sensor-switch/

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You can get rid of the egr but with out reprogramming may have the code 32. Without a vented gas cap you should hook up the evap.

gta892000

thanks. perfect.
optional T shall not be installed.
I will hook it up according to that diagram.
ah, yah, that looks like what the EGR wire should connect to. Thanks.


If the can is on the right side instead of the left, where's the best place to route that hose? having 8 feet of hose seems like too much volume to string it around to the right side, bending it and stuffing under doesn't seem right either

I suppose it's best to move the can back to the left side is a better idea.
Got any pictures of where your evap can is mounted?
This one has a K+N filter box taking up a good chunk of room on the left, so I suppose that's why it was on the right.



Thanks. you've solved everything for me much quicker than I could, been looking around for a while.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The Charcoal canister was mounted in the front fender well on the rh passengers side. Search TTop350 posts he relocated his hidden in front of the radiator. Just route the hose so it will be secure zip ties to the ac lines.
HTH -Tuned

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=379889&ukey_make=1030&ukey_model=14635&modelYear=1988&ukey_category=19400

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Here is mine on 88 GTA, right side

gta892000

thanks. can't quite make out where that photo is


so I guess I can put it wherever it fits nicely, seems like left side would be best

I see the others

at the bottom of this link - seems like that might be where it was, but those lines across ex manifold?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...tml?styleid=51

and at bottom of this link - somewhere forward of radiator
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...tml?styleid=40

and this one
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...tml?styleid=40

but after reading about all sorts of problems, like burning up the ECM due to bad solenoid

I guess I should first diag all the parts
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...-gas-tank.html

still looking for the ground wire to ECM that was cut off some time ago, that evap solenoid probably never worked on my car

The endless project from hell where nothing goes quite right with ease...
so after reading I could pop my computer with a bad solenoid...
starting to think it was good to keep the gas tank dry until everything is done...maybe I'll wait to do it when it gets to zero degrees ha..or next spring

it's been sitting for 7 years...

original problem was it overheated I'm told due to bad ground for one fan? yah, it probably got clipped when the evap solenoid wire was clipped, loaned to sister and she overheated it...bars stop leak for small leak worked for a good while, oil was fine

then it got to a point where it wouldn't start once hot, wait 2 hours, starts right up, different garage I trust said injectors are not so good, probably head gasket isn't helping... I let it sit in his lot for years, took it back,

started the head gasket last October, one head bolt snapped off flush next to firewall...ugh, managed to drill that out and use bluepoint remover after taking out brake booster and wiper motor, making a jig to hold the drill straight...
so after that I was so happy, I decided drilling out the next broken bolt by hand, exhaust manifold bolt, I drilled crooked freehand, snapped off a smaller bluepoint remover...ugh... made a wooden jig for the head, drilled on a drill press, about 5 bits later, got most of it out, then drilled 5/16 and it caught the rest, the hardened piece of bluepoint remover was sitting at the bottom, finally got it out with some poking and prodding

replacing the broken studs to ex pipe was nothing after that

I managed to put most of it back together... Hey, I couldn't find my camera last October and never intended this project to take a year...had to wait a year to believe I could get the broken head bolt out without pulling the engine...

wasn't smart enough to install dipstick before manifold...ugh, not removing that pain again, wratchet wrench an one click from below for the back 3 bolts..

cut off about an inch on bottom of the dipstick tube, partially removed starter, finally got it in with lots of difficulty until it finally seated
by wiggling and tapping on the bracket (which I had to weld/repair because it was rusted and tore off on removal)

reassembled the front stuff

just finished the head gaskets, new injectors, thermostat
after installing new fuel pump
need to turn the rotors - or maybe just clean them with a sander with fine grit

should be soon ready to test run it

Is it really necessary to do a warm valve adjustment?
I did zero lash plus a quarter turn plus a titch,
say from 9 oclock to 1 oclock

I hope you got a laugh out of this project. I do have a spare computer I hope I don't need (from when it wouldn't start except when cold)

Thanks for your help.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

oh my. I need to let all of that simmer for a tad..........