IROC406

Hey folks, I am wondering if anyone here can decipher this situation. I know the problem APPEARS to be the starter solenoid but it's not exactly the solenoid. The big anchor starter has been replaced many times over the years (since 2002) and right now it has the mini LT4 starter and the problem still persists.

Years ago I installed a Ford relay to bypass the system for when I need it. Whenever I have the cranking problem with my key, I just go over to the Ford relay and jump it from there...the engine turns over. It will even start if I leave the key on the accessory position. This ruled out the starter.

I was then told that the VAT system is the culprit and after all this time I believed it... relying on my Ford solenoid when needed. But now, I have the EBL Flash and the VAT system is supposed to be disabled. The problem is still there, I need to rely on my Ford solenoid to start the car.

I now feel the problem is somewhere between the ignition switch (key) and the firewall. I want to change the ignition switch but before I do has anyone else experienced this? I know the starter is good, I know the VAT isn't the problem now that I have EBL...what do you think?

Thanks!

Sal

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The EBL only allows the disabling of VATs within the ECM. The starter cutoff relay is still being blocked by the Passkey decoder module.

RBob.

IROC406

Ok, I misunderstood the disabling part before installing the EBL. Can the VAT module be removed? I have read threads about bypassing it. What do you suggest to keep the EBL happy?

BTW the EBL is working really great. I did some tuning and my best fuel mileage during a 23 mile drive was 24.1 MPG. That was just after 6 VE sessions and some cell tweaking!
I am getting the hang of tuner pro now and did make the check flag correction you mentioned to the torque converter lockout option. I see OD in WUD.

Sal

IROC406

Actually now that I think about it the engine cranks over just fine when it's cool, only gives me trouble when it gets warmer. I would say the VAT system is working because the engine does start up when I leave the key position in accessory and jump it from my Ford Solenoid. This would indicate that the VAT system detects the resistor on my key.

I wired my Ford Solenoid as a stand alone unit. One end of the Solenoid is going to the battery while the other is going to the LT4 starter. The "S" terminal isn't used however could be used for a push button starter soon. I always just jump it with a pair of needle nose pliers when I get stuck someplace.
Always works too!

The only thing I can think of now is the ignition switch or a wire somewhere between the ignition switch and factory starter solenoid that loses continuity as it heats up.

Any thoughts, anyone?

Sal

AirwolfPL

Heat soaks to your starter/starter solenoid causing it's impendancy to raise. It's very common issue with headers installed, but my car also has this problem from time to time in summer when the engine is hot and I have stock manifolds (also never had this problem with my old, original starter, but now I have new, stock starter).

When the problem occurs - pop up the hood - the problem should go away quickly (this way you'll be sure it's heat soak issue).

IROC406

I am not so sure about that. Whenever I can't crank the engine with my key I just use my Ford solenoid to crank and start the engine, and it will work. The output of my Ford Solenoid is going to the already heat soaked Factory GM Solenoid. It appears that the "S" terminal at the GM solenoid isn't getting the signal from the key. I hope this makes sense.

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

Well, when your starter won't crank with the key, put a voltmeter on the purple wire at the solenoid and have someone try to start the car. If you don't have 12 volts, you will need to trace the wiring back through the neutral saftey switch and back to the starter relay. By jumping your Ford relay, you are bypassing the solenoid, so as AirWolfPL said, you could have a heat issue with your solenoid.

IROC406

Interesting you said that. Before I installed the Ford starter relay to make it easier for me to jump it when I got stuck someplace, I used to jump it from the purple wire near the driver side fender. I remember getting a volt meter and seeing no voltage there. so it was there that I would supply 12 volts and the engine would crank over and start when the key was in the accessory position. If it were heat soak the same problem would persist whether I supplied 12 volts to the purple wire or jumped it from the Ford Solenoid.

You said something that I completely disregarded after all these years...the Neutral safety switch! I am going to check on that later and thank you for mentioning it.