nikom1

Here is a recording of the sensors from the snap on computer. Any ideas will be great.

Thanks

MaxpowerTA

It looks to me like your BLMS go out of whack every time the EGR comes on, then when it shuts off the BLM and integrator start settling back to normal.....

nikom1

I see what you are saying, I did not notice that before. But the egr is supposed to open while cruising, is it not??

MaxpowerTA

Im not entirely familiar with its operation i usually shut it off in the bin. Could be there is an issue with it? I'm just theorizing here but if it is stuck closed and the engine thinks it should be open it may be increasing fuel to compensate for the extra air it thinks its getting through the EGR (but really isnt) causing it to go rich.

ULTM8Z

Yeah, the EGR vs BLM is the only thing I see as well...

MAybe there's a vacuum leak downstream of the EGR soleoind. I.e., when the EGR solenoid activates, the engine is then exposed to the vacuum leak.

How is the EGR valve diaphragm? Hoses between solenoid and EGR valve?

nikom1

Got it, this week I will remove the EGR valve and put a plate over it. I will do the recordings and post them here. Let's see what happens.



The vacuum lines are all new, either way.

nikom1

One question I have is that there is no back pressure since the cat is hollowed out would this EGR valve even open?

MaxpowerTA

I cant imagine why that would make any difference, the EGR valve is vacuum actuated isnt it?

nikom1

I thought that it works with back pressure as well on this engine?

ULTM8Z

No, it's even simpler than that. Just take the vacuum line off the solenoid vacuum input port and cap it off (the vacuum line to the engine that the solenoid routes to the EGR valve). Solenoid should have two vacuum ports, an input and an output. Output connects to the EGR valve. Take the input off and cap off the line.

Leave the electrical connection on the solenoid so as to avoid the ECM throwing a code. But just take the vacuum input off of it. That will disconnect everything downstream of the solenoid (the vacuum lines, EGR valve, etc). No need to remove the valve itself.

MaxpowerTA

But if the EGR valve is carbon-ed up and physically stuck pulling the vacuum lines isn't going to change anything is it?

nikom1

Hi guys,

Well here is the recording from todays quick run with the car. I had the EGR Vacuum plugged. The only thing that I noticed a little different was the BLM's go lower at idle, lets say around 120 or so.

nikom1

Anyone??

nikom1

THis is the latest recording with some adjustment on the throttle, still though under load the numbers go out of place.

TiredTA

Have ever performed a leak down test on the engine? What conditions are you recording your mileage numbers?

nikom1

No I have not done a leak down test. Just a compression test.
I did not understand your second question about the mileage numbers?

TiredTA

A leak down test would let you know how well your rings and valve are sealing and is way more revealing than a compression test. At this point I would begin to suspect something may have gone wrong during the rebuild. A nice set of cheapo "rebuild" pistons might lower the compression to 7.5/1.

Its hard to see on my monitor but your data looks pretty good. Your high BL numbers seem to only happen when you give the throttle a jab which isn't all that surprising. If you want a real picture of what is going on the car has to be under load and a fairly steady throttle state. Take it on a drive and log some data. Mind you I did only look at the latest vid.

How are you driving when you are getting 10mpg? City driving with lots of stops, steady highway, etc? My 305 tpi get 11mpg city with 24 on the highway. Why? Cause I spend most of my time in the city idling in traffic.