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non lock up torque converter in a lock up tranny

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Old 12-31-2004, 01:15 PM   #1
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non lock up torque converter in a lock up tranny

I want to get a non lock up TC for my car but will it work sense my car had lock up end the tranny was made for lock up. I took the computer out and all the wiring for it also.
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Old 01-01-2005, 12:06 PM   #2
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anyone?
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Old 01-01-2005, 08:59 PM   #3
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I am pretty sure you have to buy a kit so you can use a non lockup convertor. I know trans go has them available.
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Old 01-01-2005, 11:58 PM   #4
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Would it be cheaper to just buy a lock up TC and just not use the lock up, sense i dont have a computer for it to work with.
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Old 01-02-2005, 01:21 AM   #5
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Why do you want a non-lockup?
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Old 01-02-2005, 09:03 AM   #6
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There is a valve in the front pump that will need to be changed, most transmission supply shops should have it or are able to obtain one for you..it`s accesible thru the pan. Dayrel Young products is the one I used, it was 22$ and took about 2 mintues to install with the trans out. I don`t need no lock up..just something else to break
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Old 01-02-2005, 01:17 PM   #7
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Do you have a part number for it, also do you know if B&M has that part.
thank u
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Old 01-02-2005, 04:56 PM   #8
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I`ll see if I can dig it up, here`s a kit TPI sells for about the same price...non lock up valve
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Old 01-02-2005, 09:22 PM   #9
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Alright thank u
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Old 01-03-2005, 08:23 AM   #10
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What is the need for a lock up vs. non lock up?
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Old 01-03-2005, 02:31 PM   #11
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Lockup is soley a gas milage booster on the highway. It eliminates the slippage in the converter by using a clutch to effective lock the two halves of the converter together. This also reduces heat, because there is no slippage.

Do you need it? That depends on you. In a mildly modified car that sees a lot of street use, or is a daily driver then it's nice to have. In a street/strip car or heavily modified car it's one more thing to go wrong, and the good lockup converters are very expensive.

What's your normal cruise RPM on the highway? If it's more than the stall speed of the converter it won't matter if it's lockup or non-lockup. If it's less, then a lockup converter will save you some gas.

I went non-lockup when I rebuilt the trans for my Blazer. I'm running a 2,400 stall, 4.88:1 gears, and 38.5" tires. At 80MPH I'll be just at the stall speed. Good enough for me, and I saved $250 on the converter.
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Old 01-12-2005, 10:27 AM   #12
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
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Transmission: 700r4

Ok, I understand that. Now what if I go from a TPI motor with a computer to a carbed motor, Ohh and my torque coverter is stock. What would I need to get my converter to lock in and out.
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Old 01-12-2005, 03:37 PM   #13
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Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00

You just need a TC lockup kit, which is basically a relay that gets wired in to the plug on the side of the trans and the brake switch. Very easy to install.
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Old 01-13-2005, 12:16 AM   #14
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Sense im planing on getting a 3000 stall for my combo and I wont have lock up, will it be all right to drive under the stall? I will only have a 342 gear for now, I know driving on the street I wont be at or over that stall speed. Will I have to get better gears like 410 or higher?
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Old 01-13-2005, 02:22 PM   #15
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Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00

No, you don't have to keep your RPM over the stall speed. Definately install a big trans cooler though. While driving at RPM under the stall speed the converter will be slipping and generating a good amount of heat. Running a cooler will keep the temperature under control and make sure you don't damage the trans.

You'll need to modify the trans to run without lockup too. TransGo and others have a kit to delete the lockup function. It's a plug that goes in the pump. Then you can remove all the wiring from inside the trans. Leave the through case plug though or you'll get a leak.

A trans temp gauge is another good idea. Ideally you can run two sending units. One in the supply line to the cooler and one in the return line, and toggle between them with a switch. This'll tell you how well your cooler is working, as well as if the trans is too hot.
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