lost 2nd, 3rd and OD in T700
#1
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lost 2nd, 3rd and OD in T700
Hi everyone, I have an '85 Trans Am with a 'box problem.
Was driving in town yesterday and stopped at some lights. Light turned green, drove away normally (in OD, as on the shifter) but it wouldn't change up into 2nd or 3rd, Etc.
Reverse is OK as is N and D. There is no slipping in 1st, the oil is still red, the level OK, and there is no burnt smell. If you accelerate with the car in OD (to say 3000 revs) and then remove your foot off the throttle it will coast, just like having your foot on the clutch, then if you manually shift it into 1st it will start to engine brake.
I'm an Aussie living and working in the back blocks of Saudi Arabia and don't have much faith in the trouble shooting capabilities or workmanship of the mechanics here (from past experience) so any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm hopping to fix the thing without dropping it out, if that is possible but I'll leave that up to the capable guys that use this board.
Was driving in town yesterday and stopped at some lights. Light turned green, drove away normally (in OD, as on the shifter) but it wouldn't change up into 2nd or 3rd, Etc.
Reverse is OK as is N and D. There is no slipping in 1st, the oil is still red, the level OK, and there is no burnt smell. If you accelerate with the car in OD (to say 3000 revs) and then remove your foot off the throttle it will coast, just like having your foot on the clutch, then if you manually shift it into 1st it will start to engine brake.
I'm an Aussie living and working in the back blocks of Saudi Arabia and don't have much faith in the trouble shooting capabilities or workmanship of the mechanics here (from past experience) so any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm hopping to fix the thing without dropping it out, if that is possible but I'll leave that up to the capable guys that use this board.
#2
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Sounds like the trans is dead... that lack of engine braking was happening to mine before I lost 3rd altogether. I'd imagine dropping it down & replacing/rebuilding it is the only way out. You could always try dropping the pan, removing the filter, and opening the filter up (I use pliers around the edge). The material inside is folded over; unfolding it sometimes shows a crapload of metal filings... and you know what that means!
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---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
#3
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Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
Is it that the car just won't shift, or the trans slips when it finally does? It makes a big difference.
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If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass,
SSM SFC, Boxed LCAs,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
KYB Shocks
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--
'97 Bonneville SSE
#4
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Thanks GMtech.
Yes the 'box will not shift from 1st when other than 1st is selected, it ran great up until the time it started playing up. All the changes before this point were nice and firm, not slurrry and with slipping. My thoughts are that it is a valving problem and not a cluch pack problem, but auto's are a black art to me.
Yes the 'box will not shift from 1st when other than 1st is selected, it ran great up until the time it started playing up. All the changes before this point were nice and firm, not slurrry and with slipping. My thoughts are that it is a valving problem and not a cluch pack problem, but auto's are a black art to me.
#6
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Thanks for the info about governor gear. But what is it, what does it do and where in the box is it.
I plan on repairing this 'box myself, I am quite adept mechanically, so the more info I can get the better. PS, my mate here used to work on auto's for a living but, regretfully, hasn't touched a 700-R4.
I plan on repairing this 'box myself, I am quite adept mechanically, so the more info I can get the better. PS, my mate here used to work on auto's for a living but, regretfully, hasn't touched a 700-R4.
#7
First of all it's called a transmission, not a "box". I think it's complicated enough to rise above the level of a simple "box". LOL
Anyway, I had the same problem with mine. I took the governor out and I found out it wasnt the gear, but the little piston in it was stuck! Sooo... I took some brake cleaner and sprayed the crap out of it. Moved the piston up and down the bore until I made sure it was sliding easily again. The reason this happened to ME is because my clutches are gone and a lot of metal shavings got lodged in there. If it's just the gear like someone else suggested then you're lucky. If not, then I'd pull the pan, and look for metal shavings. If you see a lot on the bottom of the pan I think it's time for a rebuild. I was able to drive mine (and still do) for a couple more weeks by cleaning the governor and changing the fluid and filter a couple times to get all the shavings out of it. I'd do that just in case. Anyway, good luck
------------------
92 Z28 L98 350
---------------
Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires.
Best ET 13.5@105 mph
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
http://www.truspeed.org/Members/Chev...dmondIndre.htm
Anyway, I had the same problem with mine. I took the governor out and I found out it wasnt the gear, but the little piston in it was stuck! Sooo... I took some brake cleaner and sprayed the crap out of it. Moved the piston up and down the bore until I made sure it was sliding easily again. The reason this happened to ME is because my clutches are gone and a lot of metal shavings got lodged in there. If it's just the gear like someone else suggested then you're lucky. If not, then I'd pull the pan, and look for metal shavings. If you see a lot on the bottom of the pan I think it's time for a rebuild. I was able to drive mine (and still do) for a couple more weeks by cleaning the governor and changing the fluid and filter a couple times to get all the shavings out of it. I'd do that just in case. Anyway, good luck
------------------
92 Z28 L98 350
---------------
Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires.
Best ET 13.5@105 mph
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
http://www.truspeed.org/Members/Chev...dmondIndre.htm
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#8
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Thanks Blade.
A bit of comforting info, my thinking has always been that it is a hydraulic problem, basically some sort of blockage, and your ideas sound very similar to my thoughts.
Just one question though, can the governor gear and piston assembly be accessed with:-
a. just the pan off
b. pan off and with the valve body out, or
c. do I have to drop the transmission and strip it.
A bit of comforting info, my thinking has always been that it is a hydraulic problem, basically some sort of blockage, and your ideas sound very similar to my thoughts.
Just one question though, can the governor gear and piston assembly be accessed with:-
a. just the pan off
b. pan off and with the valve body out, or
c. do I have to drop the transmission and strip it.
#9
Well it's a lot easier then you'd think.
The governor assembly consists of the gear, piston, governor body and the attached springs and weights. What you would have to do to take it out is look on the driver's side of the tranny towards the tailhousing. You'll see a cap that looks like the dust cap on your wheels but it's about twice the size. You will have to pry it out. I used a flat blade screwdriver lodged between the lip of the cap and tranny and worked my way around it until it popped out. Be ready to have a container ready because as soon as that cap if off, tranny fluid will start seeping out. Well after the cap is off you'll see the top of the governor. If the car has been sitting even for an hour or two it'll still be hot as hell, so I'd do it with a rag if it's too hot. What you wanna do is grab it and twist it out. Go back and forth until it comes out.
At this point you can inspect the gear, if the teeth are still on it then it's probably dirty, if not, you can get away with buying a new gear but I'd be wondering where all those plastic shavings that used to be teeth went. Hehe
If it's not the gear, just clean it real good and make sure the litte piston in it slides easily. You can do this by using a small screwdriver to push on the top of the piston. You can see it where the weight push on it at the top of the governor.
Good luck
------------------
92 Z28 L98 350
---------------
Ported stock heads, XR270HR-10 cam, TES headers, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition components.
Best ET 12.9@107 mph
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
Click here to see my car at Truspeed.org
The governor assembly consists of the gear, piston, governor body and the attached springs and weights. What you would have to do to take it out is look on the driver's side of the tranny towards the tailhousing. You'll see a cap that looks like the dust cap on your wheels but it's about twice the size. You will have to pry it out. I used a flat blade screwdriver lodged between the lip of the cap and tranny and worked my way around it until it popped out. Be ready to have a container ready because as soon as that cap if off, tranny fluid will start seeping out. Well after the cap is off you'll see the top of the governor. If the car has been sitting even for an hour or two it'll still be hot as hell, so I'd do it with a rag if it's too hot. What you wanna do is grab it and twist it out. Go back and forth until it comes out.
At this point you can inspect the gear, if the teeth are still on it then it's probably dirty, if not, you can get away with buying a new gear but I'd be wondering where all those plastic shavings that used to be teeth went. Hehe
If it's not the gear, just clean it real good and make sure the litte piston in it slides easily. You can do this by using a small screwdriver to push on the top of the piston. You can see it where the weight push on it at the top of the governor.
Good luck
------------------
92 Z28 L98 350
---------------
Ported stock heads, XR270HR-10 cam, TES headers, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition components.
Best ET 12.9@107 mph
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
Click here to see my car at Truspeed.org
#10
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Thanks Blade
Great info. I'll probably have a crack at it tomorrow. I flying blind here, without a book to guide me but your info has painted a picture for me already. Once again thanks.
I'll put the results of my findings on here for the benefit of the other users.
Great info. I'll probably have a crack at it tomorrow. I flying blind here, without a book to guide me but your info has painted a picture for me already. Once again thanks.
I'll put the results of my findings on here for the benefit of the other users.
#11
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Hi everyone,
well my thanks go to Blade, he was dead right about the gear on my governor. My gear hadn't stripped though, it wasn't there at all. The gear had snapped off and I had to retieve it by droppin off the drive shaft and removing the tail housing of the trans. But we are back underway now for less than $20 and a bit of getting dirty.
well my thanks go to Blade, he was dead right about the gear on my governor. My gear hadn't stripped though, it wasn't there at all. The gear had snapped off and I had to retieve it by droppin off the drive shaft and removing the tail housing of the trans. But we are back underway now for less than $20 and a bit of getting dirty.
#13
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
That is awesome! A $20 fix saved at least $1000... great info! Thanks, I'll have to save this somewhere
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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