JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Probably. I've read that they're a waste of time—they were in my case anyway. I used one several years ago to save the expense of buying new axles. Eventually I had to purchase new axles AND do the job a second time. Personally, I wouldn't recommend them.

JamesC

NW Task Force

I finally got my rear axle shafts to seal properly! It was a big hassle and some surprising findings! I ended up pulling the new $40. 1 piece seal/bearing units from the axle. When I pulled them out using a slide hammer, small metal shavings came out as well. I measured the I.D. of the seal and compared to the O.D. of the axle shaft.............. I couldn't believe it! 1/16" of seal to axle shaft open clearance!!!!! No wonder these stupid units leaked! I compared them to the OEM replacement seals and the measurement was drastic. The OEM seals were slightly smaller in diameter than the axle shaft, this is much better. I also discovered that installing these one piece seal/bearing units screwed up the axle tube. Installing them shaved the I.D. of the tube, therefore making the new OEM replacement bearings fit with the slight push of the hand. I ended up using Loctite bearing retaining compound (green stuff) to captivate the new OEM bearing. Worked great and no leaks now. I would like to pass along this experience to others...........the 1 piece bearing/seal saver units are garbage! They ruin your axle tube and the lip seal is too large for the axle shaft! I am relieved that I was able to fix the issue with stock replacement items.

bestracing

What I like to do is after removing the "c-clips" from the axles I carefully pull the axles back out to there original location and I place the pin back into the carrier and loosely put the bolt back in (about 1/2 turn) then I remove the axles. This helps keep the spider gears and shims from accidentally rotating out of the carrier.

gallaire

help
my axcles go in out 1/4 on driver side have cover off everthing looks good could it be c clips worn out. what do need to do so I can get back to driving my car enjoy rest of the summer

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Check the 10-Bolt FAQ sticky for more information.

JamesC

chrisvanguitar5

Hey dude wicked right up, helped me remember a lot and pics were killer! One thing I did want to make light of though is that the c clips only affect the 10 bolts, if ya got a 9 bolt you can skip all the first steps and go straight to removing the brake calipers if I remember correctly. doing wheel bearings, axle seals, fuel filter, starter and trans mount today, illl post back in a new thread with the trials and tribulations

Brianbajnuth

What kind of oil did you use for the rear end?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

From the 10-Bolt FAQ (if you have a 10-bolt):

What Gear Oil Should I Use?
Standard 80-90 weight and a friction modifer (GM P/N 1052358) if the limited slip is an Auburn.* A Gov-Lock or open/standard differential doesn’t require the additive. The rear holds approximately two quarts of gear oil.

*Though some TGO members use a full synthetic, such as Mobil 1 75-90, along with the above friction modifier, both Auburn and Eaton do not recommend synthetics for usage with their limited slips.

JamesC

yeud619

I took those yellow springs out how do I put them back in?