700r slips bad when shifting
#1
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Car: 1986 Iroc, 89RS
Engine: 350 tpi, 350 tbi
Transmission: 700r4,700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10,2.73
700r slips bad when shifting
Ok here goes.
1986 iroc 350ci 250 hp tpi, just rebuilt.
in 2001 i fried a tranny, got a new one from the junkyard. 1993 700r outta a 93 cadillac with 60k miles. It ran good for about 2 months until the engine overheated and cracked a head. So, it set until a couple months ago.
I rebuilt the engine and took off...Transmission slips real bad when it shifts gears. If i put the car in second gear (converter unlocked,,,speedometer cable is rusted up and not connected) and let off the gas; then stab it, it will chirp the tires. So it is not really slipping when going down the road, just when shifting.
The fluid is red, (doesn't smell like burnt toast), but it does not look like a candied apple. Kinda murky. I doesn't look like it came outta the can.
Does tranny fluid break-down and get bad from just sitting?
How can I change ALL the fluid in the tranny. I dont wanna just drop the pan and change that. Because there is still fluid in the converter,,,,RIGHT???
I wanna change it all, what is the best way.
OR,,, is there a sleeve or check ball or something in the valve-body that might be stuck. I am thinking that I will change the fluid, install a shift-kit (which one is best???) clean the valve body really good, and maybe install a corvette servo.
I used to have a hp 406 engine, now I have a 350 with '882 heads, and a L-82 cam,,,not exactly high performance,,,but,,,I wanna put a 75 or 100 shot of nitrous to make up for the low-perf heads and cam.
I want the tranny to stand up to the n20.
Any help would be appreciated.
Im not gonna drive it until I get the tranny fixed. I dont wanna ruin it.
PS...I dont remember which TV cable is installed now..But I wanna get a new one, just to make sure. Can someone give me advice on the best cable to get. I got one from O'reilly's, but I haven't taken it outta the box yet, because I read somewhere that it probably is of poor quality.
Thanks for any input from anyone.
1986 iroc 350ci 250 hp tpi, just rebuilt.
in 2001 i fried a tranny, got a new one from the junkyard. 1993 700r outta a 93 cadillac with 60k miles. It ran good for about 2 months until the engine overheated and cracked a head. So, it set until a couple months ago.
I rebuilt the engine and took off...Transmission slips real bad when it shifts gears. If i put the car in second gear (converter unlocked,,,speedometer cable is rusted up and not connected) and let off the gas; then stab it, it will chirp the tires. So it is not really slipping when going down the road, just when shifting.
The fluid is red, (doesn't smell like burnt toast), but it does not look like a candied apple. Kinda murky. I doesn't look like it came outta the can.
Does tranny fluid break-down and get bad from just sitting?
How can I change ALL the fluid in the tranny. I dont wanna just drop the pan and change that. Because there is still fluid in the converter,,,,RIGHT???
I wanna change it all, what is the best way.
OR,,, is there a sleeve or check ball or something in the valve-body that might be stuck. I am thinking that I will change the fluid, install a shift-kit (which one is best???) clean the valve body really good, and maybe install a corvette servo.
I used to have a hp 406 engine, now I have a 350 with '882 heads, and a L-82 cam,,,not exactly high performance,,,but,,,I wanna put a 75 or 100 shot of nitrous to make up for the low-perf heads and cam.
I want the tranny to stand up to the n20.
Any help would be appreciated.
Im not gonna drive it until I get the tranny fixed. I dont wanna ruin it.
PS...I dont remember which TV cable is installed now..But I wanna get a new one, just to make sure. Can someone give me advice on the best cable to get. I got one from O'reilly's, but I haven't taken it outta the box yet, because I read somewhere that it probably is of poor quality.
Thanks for any input from anyone.
Last edited by mreld3r; 08-27-2009 at 07:38 PM.
#2
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Car: 1986 Iroc, 89RS
Engine: 350 tpi, 350 tbi
Transmission: 700r4,700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10,2.73
Re: 700r transmission guru needed
no responses? Did I do something wrong?
Advice please,,Thanks
Advice please,,Thanks
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Car: 91 Firebird, 06 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT
Engine: 3.1L, 4.7L
Transmission: 700r4, 45RFE
Axle/Gears: 3.23 open, 3.55?
Re: 700r transmission guru needed
See im not a big DIY tranny guy but i am good friends with the son of the owner of a very well known local tranny shop(they have a state contract with the state trooper cars lol) Either way i know Probuilt makes some great kits for our trannies. It states it will hold up to 500hp after the kit.
http://www.700r4l60e.com/
http://www.700r4l60e.com/
#4
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Re: 700r slips bad when shifting
I've changed the filter//gasket whenever it's time to. IDK if there is a torq cnvrtr drain on a 700r4 or not~never thot about//looked for one!
One way to make sure ALL the fluid is replaced is to go to a shop that's got a good reputation & get a trans flush.They hook up a machine that circulates new fluid in & old fluid out.
The shop that did my grand am charged $75.
Only thing is-- a flush doesn't get the filter replaced!
One way to make sure ALL the fluid is replaced is to go to a shop that's got a good reputation & get a trans flush.They hook up a machine that circulates new fluid in & old fluid out.
The shop that did my grand am charged $75.
Only thing is-- a flush doesn't get the filter replaced!
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Car: 1988 iroc-z
Engine: 350 Vortec TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 4th gen Torsen 10bolt
Re: 700r slips bad when shifting
if you overheated the motor you most likely overheated the trans as well,since they both share the radiator,also sounds like your tv cable is out of adj. if the fluid looks an smells ok and is full, dont bother dropping the pan or flushing it.(untill you get it to shift correct) get a gm cable and set it right before you do anything!! also there is no tq converter drain.(also forget the servo or shift kit until its right,those are not fixes for a toasted trans.)
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Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Re: 700r slips bad when shifting
700r-4s are notorious for breaking the 1-2 accumulator spring, the symptom is it's about 2 seconds from the time it releases first, to the time second acxtually takes hold. If this is what you have, then do go ahead with a shift kit. TransGo gets the best reviews. I love B&M, and I like TCI.
#7
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Car: 1986 Iroc, 89RS
Engine: 350 tpi, 350 tbi
Transmission: 700r4,700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10,2.73
Re: 700r slips bad when shifting
thanks guys for the help, see it was working perfect before it sat for several years; so im thinking that something is stuck, corroded or something. Im gonna call dana and get a shift kit/with corvette servo. Then Im gonna take the valve body apart and give it a good cleaning and inspection to see what the problem is. New fluid and filter, brand new TV cable and hope all is well again. I dont see how anything could have happened just sitting. corrosion, or rust maybe. Surely its nothing bad. Ill repost after next payday,,,yea , im poor. when I can order my stuff from Dana.
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS/Z28
Engine: 357 Edelbrock Intake & Holley Carb
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: whatever stock is
Re: 700r slips bad when shifting
700r-4s are notorious for breaking the 1-2 accumulator spring, the symptom is it's about 2 seconds from the time it releases first, to the time second acxtually takes hold. If this is what you have, then do go ahead with a shift kit. TransGo gets the best reviews. I love B&M, and I like TCI.
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Re: 700r slips bad when shifting
With the B&M valve body kit, DO NOT leave out the spring in the 2nd accumulator, put it back. In the 4th accumulator you can leave it out IF you are blocking it (making it inoperative). Blocking or highly restriicting the 2nd accumulator will make for very harsh 1-2 part throttle shifts. This is very hard on the driveline.
#10
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS/Z28
Engine: 357 Edelbrock Intake & Holley Carb
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: whatever stock is
Re: 700r slips bad when shifting
With the B&M valve body kit, DO NOT leave out the spring in the 2nd accumulator, put it back. In the 4th accumulator you can leave it out IF you are blocking it (making it inoperative). Blocking or highly restriicting the 2nd accumulator will make for very harsh 1-2 part throttle shifts. This is very hard on the driveline.
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