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Just got a new to Me Dana 44 w/ 3:92 gears what oil are you guys running does it need to use posi additive or not
I have been using valvoline synthetic 85-140 in my 9 bolt would that be good or should I look at something better
I run what the gear manufacturer recommends. In my case, I have Richmond Sportsman gears and they suggest 75-140 synthetic.
You have to be careful here as the posi units have different needs. With the TracLoc posi I have, I'm running GM's additive. Prior to that, the 9 bolt I had (with it's cone style clutches) responded well to the Ford additive. Hardly conclusive regarding what the posi needs however those are my results.
Maybe things have changed but the ford an GM additive used to come from the same tank, IIRC.
That wouldn't surprise me in the least.
That said, my understanding is that different LSDs require different additives. I think it was an Eaton unit where the instructions stated that synthetic lube should not be used so some of them are quite particular it seems.
Ford and GM have the best additives, if your rearend needs it.
Different clutch,cones have different additive needs to prevent the chatter from them locking and unlocking.
Does anybody have an updated p/n for the prop valve?
Did a search. Sorry if I missed it.
Sorry for the edit. Here is a post I found by ebmiller88 from 2002:
The dealer guy is wrong..You have to change both the prop valve and M/C. Andy is right, and if you checked his thread you will see that. I did the swap on my '88 J65 car and here's what I used:
New combo valve (PN 14089496)
Disc/drum car M/C (PN 18014286)
These are the parts you HAVE to switch. The M/C threads will be fine, but you HAVE to get this prop valve in order for it to have the correct threads you mentioned, which are the 1st design /early threads (1.0 MM pitch).
E-mail me for any questions with this. These are the only parts you will have to change now that you've done the caliper switch.
Here's my suspension and brake upgrade page so check for yourself. Click on first 2 Camaro links:
ebmiller88 has another post where he lists the various prop valves and m/c's that were used by GM throughout the years. My 1985 originally had those dreadful J65 iron calipers. I now have the PBRs and I want to make sure I have the correct m/c and prop valve.
Last edited by Parrydise7; 04-30-2014 at 12:43 PM.
One axle was leaking real bad. With the help of a friend, it was removed last night. It appears the cheap chinese bearing fell apart after 2k miles and tore up the seal.
I remembered I had purchased an NOS axle on ebay years ago, and decided to put it in my Dana. To my delight, it came prepackaged with a GM Performance Parts bearing/seal/race kit. The parts looked of MUCH better quality than what was removed. I took some pictures and attached them to the first post for historical purposes and documentation.
For anyone doing a Dana 44 swap the stock GM 9 bolt or 10 bolt universal -joint does NOT fit... there is a cross breed u-joint Dana Spicer still makes it 5-436x I was able to cross this number at local Pep-Boys auto parts store GMB -0231.
Also there is a bad interference problem with aftermarket torque arm a little grinding for clearance is required the rear bolt will not go through as you can see in my picture
Last edited by MY-92-RS; 08-22-2014 at 05:43 PM.
Reason: cause
Also there is a bad interference problem with aftermarket torque arm a little grinding for clearance is required the rear bolt will not go through as you can see in my picture
Had to do the same with the original torque arm when I installed my Dana 44 back in 1992
For anyone doing a Dana 44 swap the stock GM 9 bolt or 10 bolt universal -joint does NOT fit... there is a cross breed u-joint Dana Spicer still makes it 5-436x I was able to cross this number at local Pep-Boys auto parts store GMB -0231.
Also there is a bad interference problem with aftermarket torque arm a little grinding for clearance is required the rear bolt will not go through as you can see in my picture
Originally Posted by SwedeInSiam
Had to do the same with the original torque arm when I installed my Dana 44 back in 1992
I couldn't recall having an issue when I installed mine. I pulled the rear axle today (for a re-build) and it turns out that UMI had anticipated this problem and provides two sets of bolts holes that eliminate any interference.
As for the u-joint, if you're going to the effort to install something with the strength of the D44, then you may as well step up to a 1350 yoke. If you can't get the driveshaft built for the same, there are combination u-joints available that will allow the smaller 1310 to work with the 1350 yoke. Then it's only the driveshaft that has to be modified later.
http://www.gearsnrears.com/downloads...alInfo_XGI.pdf
original gear sets for the D44s made just for our cars, ratios were 3.31:1, 3.54:1, 3.92:1, and 4.09:1. Other ratios could be swapped in, but those 4 were offered ARR. (assembled and ready to run)
Also, if you want a stronger 8.89" 4.10:1 gear set, the '07-up Rubicon Dana 44 rear is the source, they're going for $40-60 used.
Anyone know of a good complete kit for bearings, seals,retainers ect? I have a d44 here for my car, but I need the aforementioned parts as well as brakes. I'd like to run factory 3rd gen brakes, this housing had will woods on it before I got it. Obviously goin to the dealer is out of the question.
Thanks
I purchased a master installation kit and all the associated bearings from Drive Train Specialists. I don't have a link handy however an internet search will turn up their website. There's a pretty good listing for the Dana 44.
Later year 3rd gen PBR brakes will bolt onto the axle flanges unless its not an original GM issued 3rd gen rear axle.
For what it's worth, I had better luck with a Yukon gear set than I did with the Richmond Sportsman gears I had purchased originally. In three attempts at setting them up, I (or I should say we as I eventually took it to a shop that specialized in 4 x4 performance builds. Its a popular truck axle.) couldn't get the gears to run quietly. With the Yukon set, there wasn't (as much) an issue.
Interestingly, Yukon actually has a listing for the Dana as it was installed in the 3rd gen. That surprised me.
Check out Drive Train Specialists and look through their listing of D44 parts. That's what I did years back when I was trying to figure the parts I needed. I doubt I still have that information as I've relocated my shop and a lot of that stuff (empty parts boxes with p/ns ) got pitched.
That's not much help I know but for what I can recall, except for the reverse rotation axles and the specialty Corvette stuff, its all the same. I cant speak for the bearing retainers (in the E bay picture) as there are a lot of different axle ends. The D44 for the Camaro used the same retainer as the 10 bolt (IIRC).
I went on drivetrain specialists site and isn't see the outer bearings and retainers listed. Just parts for the carrier. I think I have it situated now though.
Thanks
Does anyone have updated part numbers for the bearings and seals?
I'd prefer made in the U.S. bearings as I've had a couple of bad experiences with the off-shore parts available today.
The bearing number I come up with is the same as posted here earlier. That's the Timken Set9. Problem is, the last set of Timken bearings I purchased were manufactured in India. They failed after only a few thousand miles.
As for the seal, there's a post listing PN 2146. I assume that's still a Timken PN.
Sometimes the cross reference catalogs don't work like I think they should.
Any information is appreciated.
It would be buried behind the hardware so not likely easily seen. Thanks just the same. Somewhere in my files are the records of the previous rebuilds. Easier said than found though.
Ordering axle bearings led to a replacement part number.
SKF BR9 VP.
Seems the 2 piece style of the original BR9 (or SET9 if you're looking for Timken) has been replaced with an assembly. The race and tapered rollers are no longer separated.
I'm hoping it helps with the poor fitment of the original design (with a race that sits in the axle tube).
The axle seal is the same. SKF 16747.
For $4500 I think I fella could get better parts.
It's cool and all to have the over the counter replacement for the 3rd gen, but it's still a replacement just the same. I would think money is better spent on a 9", Dana 60, 12 bolt...
This isn't meant to cast a pall over a possible members potential sale (although it looks like it's gonna sell). Seeing as I have one and understand the limitations , I'm just throwing my two cents out there.
That said, it IS a pretty neat piece of merchandise.
I too think 4500 is a bit optimistic. Thinking 3k ish up or down may be ballpark. The brakes to me are junk but the rear is gold sooo
I misread that. I thought the bidding was up to $4500 already but at second glance I see 0 bids. So $3000...(I'd still get a Moser or Strange)
Interestingly, the NOS brakes might be of real value to someone doing a "correct" restoration wouldn't they? The rear end not so much as it wasn't OE but I'm guessing the brakes are PBR?
Now here's a question. What's with all of the brake hardware? Master cylinder, prop valve, e-brake handle and cables...? I was under the impression that this was a direct swap for disc brake 10 bolt or BW 9 bolt. No? Maybe the e-brake cables as I had to source mine separately as I didn't have the PBR disc originally but the rest didn't enter my mind.
GM used the dana44 for 10bolt issues/warranty and they were also in the GM performance parts catalogs as an otc upgrade.
All the brake stuff would be absolutely great for a 1000 point resto on a 82-88 but to me, I wouldn't waste my time with them. (at min, I use the 89-92 rear brakes
Its a great rear end for a nice mild street friendly car but its def not for everybodys hail Mary 5.3 twin turbo, 5 kit nitrous, 2,500hp build.
I could even see this going to a collector that just wants to show it off in a display.
So you're saying those are the Delco Moraine iron caliper discs? I'd agree, they're not worth much. When I did my brake upgrade I went with the PBR aluminium rears (along with the 4th gen "LS" fronts).
I'm hoping my 44 holds up to some hard launches. No "hail Mary 5.3 twin turbo, 5 kit nitrous, 2,500hp build" here. I do expect 60' times in the 1.6x range with new slicks. So far it's held up to 1.7x although despite having been rebuilt a couple of times with two different gear sets (3 actually) it's still somewhat noisy between 50-60 mph. Not too bad but noticeable. Went from Richmond gears to Yukon at the request of my rebuilder. Yukon actually has a listing for a 3rd gen D44. I thought that was interesting. He spoke directly with their tech support after his first attempt was too noisy. He's a D44 specialist of sorts as the majority of his work is from the 4 x 4 crowd. He came through in the end.
Yup, Iron delco calipers. Perfect for restorations but not for me..
I hit 1.59 and and may 1.60s on the old 9bolt and never broke it b4 I went to the 9"
"hail Mary 5.3 twin turbo, 5 kit nitrous, 2,500hp build" I giggle every time I type that. lol
My 9 bolt blew up on my first 12 second pass. 3.70 gear went 12.98 @ 106 on a 1.78 60'. Running McCreary TrackStar treaded slicks at the time. Took a couple of teeth off (Still have them too as a souvenir).
That's awesome. Have a shelf of broken stupid stuff in my garage too.
I had stock 3.27 gears in my 9bolt but do have a set of 370s on the shelf for it.
Back then I used M&H race master tires "take no prisoners compound". Marketing got me and had to try them lol
It would pull the wheels on the street about 1/4inch. (think I had 4.11 in the 9" by then)
Mustang buddy saw it from the right lane. He would have never believed it if he didn't see it.
Shipping crate arrived today. Any particular shots you guys would like for the greater good of the thread?
Am I able to remove the brake backing plates without removing the bearings? Or do I need to plan on ordering up a set of bearings and seals? I plan to run my PBR calipers from my current 8.8 setup.
03-26-2014, 07:12 PM
