TPI-Formula350-

Hey guys-
I just snapped 1 of the 4 hardened u joint bolts in the yoke. It broke off counter sunk in the yoke. I was wondering how the yoke comes off the rear?? Do I have to pull the entire rear apart of is it bolted on externally? If so maybe ill try to drill it out on the car with a carbide bit?? Any suggestions?? Its a Borg Warner 9 bolt.

big gear head

Remove the drive shaft if you haven't already done that. Behind the u joint you will see a large nut. I don't remember what size the pinion nut is on the 9 bolt, but I think it's around 32mm. Maybe a 1 1/16, 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 inch socket will fit. Remove the nut and you can tap the yoke off. Noticer that there is some sealant in the splines when you take it off. Be sure to use some kind of sealant in the splines when you put it back on or it will leak oil around the nut.

I've tried drilling these bolts out a few times. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. If you can use a drill press with a center dfrill and center drill the bolt first and then use a drill bit to finish the hole you will have a better chance of not getting into the threads. Hope it works out for you. The 9 bolt yokes are kind of hard to find.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

You'll have quite a time drilling it straight under the car but if you do, try the square cut removal tools; I've had much better luck with those than spirals.

TPI-Formula350-

Sounds good, yeah I found that nut after dropping the drive shaft. I'll try to remove the yoke tomorrow. I work for a railroad and have a drill press in my shop, so hopefully I can get it out there. If not I still have my old 9 bolt rear in my back yard and can pull the yoke from that if I have to.

Will all my gear oil spill out from removing the yoke?? any idea on the torque specs for putting it back on? Thanks for all the good info!!!!!

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I'd suggest a new yoke, if you can find one... dodges the issue of wear on the seal surface.

You don't "torque" that nut. Rather, it's just like front wheel bearings, except that there's a "crush sleeve" you tighten the nut against instead of a cotter pin: you try to set a little bit of preload on the bearings, to some point just barely past zero play. If you can't put it back together EXACTLY like it came apart by marking the nut and the pinion and restoring it to EXACTLY that spot plus a very small amount more tightening (probably less than 1/16 turn in most cases), you'll need to take the carrier out, so you can measure the "drag" of the preloaded bearings accurately enough to get it to around 25 inch-pounds (2 ft-lbs). Here's what happens when you "torque" the nut.

Did I use words like "exact" and "accurate" enough times to get that part of the point across?

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ial-after.html

Unfortunately the person asking the question is one of those who means well but manages to mess up everything he ever touches, so the whole thread makes it seem more complicated than it really is; but in amongst all that, you should be able to find what to do, how to do it, and how to measure when it's right.

TPI-Formula350-

I haven't removed the yoke bolt yet...I plan on marking the nut and yoke so I can return it to the pre removal spot. I also will use a torque wrench to remove it to see it I can see what load it was on when it was tight. Think this should work

big gear head

Marking the nut is allright as long as you are using all of the same parts again, but it is completely useless when you are changing the yoke. There will be enough difference between the 2 yokes due to machining tolerances that marking the nut will not be accurate if you swap the yoke. I have tested this a few times and I have found that most of the time if you torque the nut to 150 foot pounds it is tight enough to hold everything in place, but not tight enough to add any preload to the bearings. If you decide to remove the differential so that you can set the bearing preload then just remember that used bearings are going to be set with much less preload than new bearings. New bearings should be set around 19 to 22 inch pounds, but used bearings are going to be about 5 to 7 inch pounds. Preload is the amount of torque required to turn the pinion, not the torque applied to the nut. Be sure to use red Locktite on the threads before you put the nut on. A new nut is also recommended, but again, this throws the marked nut method out the window.

TPI-Formula350-

ok, I got the yoke off the rear that's installed in the car. I marked the nut as well as the bolt it was on. I took 11 full turns to come off completely, that was with a washer under it. I plan to bring the yoke into work and have the broke bolt drilled out and run a tap through all the holes. I'll also be using the bolt and washer that came off with the yoke again. So the plan is to just reinstall it 11 full turns and match my markings. Unless you think just going to 150 ft.lbs. would be better??
I also removed the yoke from the old rear I had laying around. I was going to have a machinist measure the two ,to see if they are the exact same size. I'd only use that one if he can't remove the broken bolt. That rear fell off the jacks stands I had it on right on my big toe which now has a nice purple toe nail

SLEEPER 86

Whatever you do, don't use an EZ out! When it breaks off in the yoke hole you're getting a new yoke. Ask me how I know.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Are you the same guy as the link I posted WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS, just re-registered with a new userID? Or just a slow learner?

big gear head

The problem with the rear end in that link was not due to torquing the nut, it was because of the dust shield on the new yoke hitting part of the housing.

TPI-Formula350-

We were able to drill the broken bolt out and run a tap through it. So I'll be using the yoke I took off the rear in the car. I'm also going to use the same nut and washer. This way ill just tighten it that same amount of turns and match my markings.


Big Gear Head, you recommend me putting a sealent on the yokes spline? What type of sealent would you go with? Thanks

big gear head

RTV, thread sealant or whatever you like to use. Just be sure that you put it in the yoke and not on the pinion shaft. If you put it on the pinion shaft then the yoke will push it right into the outer bearing and you will have more problems. If you don't use any sealant then you will have a leak around the pinion nut.

TPI-Formula350-

Big Gear Head, I put permatex thread sealant on the yoke spline. I put the yoke nut on the same amount of turn as it took to get it off. I checked the torque as it was getting tighter and stopped when I got to my marking, 130 ft. lbs. I also used red lock tight .. What do ya think?

big gear head

Should be good to go. Does it turn smooth? Any play in the pinion at all?

TPI-Formula350-

yeah, turned smooth and no play