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what ive got is a th350 w/6 inch tailshaft
and a th350c w/9 inch tailshaft
so the first thing im doing off the bat is stealing the outputshaft/tailhousing from the 350c for the th350
can any of u guys recomend a full overhaul kit or maybe even what clutches and gaskets sets to buy
the th350 is replacing the th400 that i have in the car that ive had nothing but issues with , granted the th350 isnt going to live long if i ever start beating on it , but thats what im doing for now until i can aquire everything i need for an 4l80 swap
i already had the th350 and th350c so cost is minimal and im just so over screwing with the th400
dont know what i need for hardparts just yet , but i figure i can atleast get clutches/steelsand softparts headed my way
Cheaper than building one and making mistakes and it has all the goodies already installed. The TH350 only has about a 700-800hp limit
im done buying built transmissions , this fiasco with this th400 has just goten to me big time, i paid good money for it and have had nothing but problems with it.flares on shift , slips at wot occasionally, delayed downshifting
i know the th350 has its limits but i dont drive the car around set on kill anyways,and it will get me threw till i can afford a nice 4l80..Its a wintertime project were i wont be driving the car that much anyways so i have plenty of time to make sure i do it right
i have some transmission experience, ive done my own 700's for my v6 turbo car with great sucess, and ive done the few odd stock th350 rebuilds few years ago
Ptc here. No complaints. Some say fti is good to for turbo cars. Sure there are others
Are you using a stock case or aftermarket?
I have one of those LW or whatever bell housings. Not sure if dimensionally thins were different but I had to add some .060" shims between the converter and the flexplate.
I went with a freakshow converter. The guy's welding looks like he used a battery and a coathanger, but the converter works as advertised. cheap too.
-- Joe
link to converters? cheap is good for me specially if they work as advertised since this isnt a long term deal for me
Originally Posted by anesthes
Are you using a stock case or aftermarket?
I have one of those LW or whatever bell housings. Not sure if dimensionally thins were different but I had to add some .060" shims between the converter and the flexplate.
-- Joe
mines getting a blanket for sure , and im welding in some steel plate to the floor around were the flexplate will be for added insurance
still need to know whos band and shiftkit to buy for this thing
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-350-TH350-TH400-Powerglide-Stall-5000-Torque-Converter-9-5-/271631022868?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3e787b14&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-350-TH350-TH400-Powerglide-Stall-2400-Torque-Converter-9-5-/271642360019?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3f2578d3
The one I bought was around $250 shipped with the anti-baloon plate, 2800 stall. It actually does stall around 2800 with my 412" sbc.
I like it. Or at least, I like the combo of the hughes valvebody (reverse manual) and the converter. Car responds awesome.
Manual valvebody is the way to go with cars like us. You accidentally downshift at 70mph under boost and you'll end up flipped over 10 times and in the woods.
im not going to go all the way around just on te driver side of the tunnel incase the fleplate or crank decided to break , ive seen cars with steel welded there nd it deffinatly helps
looks like the fti converters are prices better and have a more stall options
im not going to go all the way around just on te driver side of the tunnel incase the fleplate or crank decided to break , ive seen cars with steel welded there nd it deffinatly helps
looks like the fti converters are prices better and have a more stall options
How so? This is the same specs as the converter I got for $250 and it's over $600
im not going to go all the way around just on te driver side of the tunnel incase the fleplate or crank decided to break , ive seen cars with steel welded there nd it deffinatly helps
looks like the fti converters are prices better and have a more stall options
i've seen pieces break off at the staging beams and go thru the body and hit another car 300 ft away in the parking lot and embed into the body steel. You would need extremely thick steel to stop it. Kevlar matting is ideal. This is basically a bullet traveling out of the car lol
TH350 band is only used in manual 2nd, it adds holding power to the large 2nd clutches in the front of the trans (you could leave the band out and not even notice any difference in a stock rebuild) I used the stock band in my 454 nova that ran 10's. B & M shift improver kit for 350 is what I've used most -- they're simple and work well. And if you like it to bark the tires going into 2nd, replace the large wavy spring in the 2nd clutch pack with another steel, but make sure you find a hardened race to go on the front of the direct drum where the 2nd clutches spline into it. I've broke a few of those.
got the th350c torn down so i could steal the output shaft and tail housing from it.
waiting to hear back from dana on some stuff for the th350 , but i know im getting a lightwieght vega sunshell and manual valve body for it , along with the clutches band and whatever else i need
Use the gear train (planetaries, ring gears, drums, etc.) from the TH350C, as it should have much less miles.
When building a TH350 for street racing or drag racing, use the late pump if possible that came with the needle roller bearing instead of a thrust washer. It offers a better direct drum bushing to surface contact area, and the white plastic ring that sits next to the needle roller bearing helps to keep the direct drum centered to prevent the 2nd gear roller clutch from breaking. Use the wide bushing in the direct drum. It is in the rebuild kit.
The Blue Plate Specials are good but expensive, factory Borg Warner, Alto Reds are fine for direct, and depending on the direct apply piston you have, machine the piston to except 5 clutches. Set the direct clutch clearance at .060"- .075", for forward shift pattern and when using the intermediate band. This .060" - .075" clutch clearance is to prevent the band from burning on the 2-3 upshift.
As for the intermediate band, use the welded Carbon lined band. For the intermediate clutches, the Blue Plate Specials are good but expensive, factory Borg Warner, Alto Reds are fine. For a "quick" WOT 1-2 manual shift, take a used low/reverse clutch and remove all of the lining by scraping, take a hacksaw and cut it open, file down any high spots, and install this under the intermediate apply piston. This will eliminate the 1-2 manual shift delay at WOT. If you "do not" do this you will have a shift delay of 500 - 700 rpm . "DO NOT" remove the waved steel in the intermediate clutch pack. The waved steel will prevent the intermediate sprag race from breaking. Set the intermediate clutch clearance at .030" - .040".
In the forward pack, "always" use the waved steel (from late TH350's & TH350C's) that has the 3 tangs on it. It sits against the forward piston. Use Borg Warner clutches here as they are the best. Forward clutch clearance .020" - .040". If you have the forward drum that is lighter than the normal TH350, use it. Kind of rare, but if you want one, I can tell you where to get them. They are not expensive. It will have a large area machined on the outer part of front area of the drum. The weight removed was apx. 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 pounds.
For the low/reverse steels, use the turbulator steels from a 1996 and later 4L60E transmission. Less drag. Borg Warner clutches are best here. If you can get your hands on a low/reverse support from a 1987 & up 700R4 or 4L60E. The roller clutch is .150" wider than the TH350, and offers much better wear, and the rollers rarely ****. Just match the pressure plate area of the low/reverse support on the TH350 for thickness, and match it to the 700R4/4L60E low/reverse support to keep the same clutch clearance. To get the correct clutch clearance, you will have to change the steel thickness to get it correct. Low/reverse clutch clearance .030" - .060". Use the TH350C spring retainers in "all the clutch packs", much easier to assemble.
The output shaft has a bushing in it sometimes, remove and use the plastic insert (late TH350's) to get lube to the rear section of the unit. Use the Vega sunshell they are completely hollowed out, which makes them very light, and is excellent for drag racing, especially on the 60ft times. I have these for $35.00. I have never seen one break from high horsepower. Use the bronze case bushing, & teflon extension housing bushing, with the three lip Vamac seal. Make sure that the driveshaft yoke is in perfect condition and made smooth as possible (polished), where the bushing & seal rides. Always use solid U-joints, never with Zerx fittings.
Use the plastic washers instead of the bronze washers where possible. You can safely run tighter end clearance with these thrust washers. When using bronze or metal thrust washers, you will need to flat sand them in most cases, as they are not flat. If you have the planets and hubs with bearings, better yet. End clearance .015" - .020", or .004" for every bronze or metal thrust washer that is used. Add a pan magnet or two. For the filter, use the Sealed Power Dacron from the TH350C, this is an excellent filter. As for the valve body modifications, use the TransGo Performance Shift kit, they offer it in automatic & full manual.
Replace any plastic accumulator pistons with aluminum. Use cast iron sealing rings on the accumulator pistons, and teflon scarf cut sealing ring rings on the stator shaft. Do not block off the 2nd accumulator as it will help to prevent the sprag race from breaking. When using the TransGo Performance Shift kit, it offers the "dual feed" of the direct apply piston in high gear. Leave off the middle sealing ring on the stator shaft for the direct apply. DO NOT remove inner rubber sealing ring in the direct drum. This slows down the release of the clutches when making a 3-2 downshift. These modifications were what we started doing many years ago in 10 & 9 second vehicles, and were worth some in terms of a drop in ET, and a slight gain in mph, and they held up very well. Use a Dexron type fluid only. Amsoil is very good synthetic fluid. No B&M Trick Shift or Ford type "F" fluid. Use Lubrication Engineers Monolec 7500 for extreme duty use.
I have complete kits for these. DO NOT remove the waved steel on the intermediate clutches as this will break the intermediate race. The "so called" hardened race is actually made a little softer to "give" on the 1-2 shift. It was to hard from the factory, and that is why it would break occasionally.
Use the gear train (planetaries, ring gears, drums, etc.) from the TH350C, as it should have much less miles.
When building a TH350 for street racing or drag racing, use the late pump if possible that came with the needle roller bearing instead of a thrust washer. It offers a better direct drum bushing to surface contact area, and the white plastic ring that sits next to the needle roller bearing helps to keep the direct drum centered to prevent the 2nd gear roller clutch from breaking. Use the wide bushing in the direct drum. It is in the rebuild kit.
The Blue Plate Specials are good but expensive, factory Borg Warner, Alto Reds are fine for direct, and depending on the direct apply piston you have, machine the piston to except 5 clutches. Set the direct clutch clearance at .060"- .075", for forward shift pattern and when using the intermediate band. This .060" - .075" clutch clearance is to prevent the band from burning on the 2-3 upshift.
As for the intermediate band, use the welded Carbon lined band. For the intermediate clutches, the Blue Plate Specials are good but expensive, factory Borg Warner, Alto Reds are fine. For a "quick" WOT 1-2 manual shift, take a used low/reverse clutch and remove all of the lining by scraping, take a hacksaw and cut it open, file down any high spots, and install this under the intermediate apply piston. This will eliminate the 1-2 manual shift delay at WOT. If you "do not" do this you will have a shift delay of 500 - 700 rpm . "DO NOT" remove the waved steel in the intermediate clutch pack. The waved steel will prevent the intermediate sprag race from breaking. Set the intermediate clutch clearance at .030" - .040".
In the forward pack, "always" use the waved steel (from late TH350's & TH350C's) that has the 3 tangs on it. It sits against the forward piston. Use Borg Warner clutches here as they are the best. Forward clutch clearance .020" - .040". If you have the forward drum that is lighter than the normal TH350, use it. Kind of rare, but if you want one, I can tell you where to get them. They are not expensive. It will have a large area machined on the outer part of front area of the drum. The weight removed was apx. 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 pounds.
For the low/reverse steels, use the turbulator steels from a 1996 and later 4L60E transmission. Less drag. Borg Warner clutches are best here. If you can get your hands on a low/reverse support from a 1987 & up 700R4 or 4L60E. The roller clutch is .150" wider than the TH350, and offers much better wear, and the rollers rarely ****. Just match the pressure plate area of the low/reverse support on the TH350 for thickness, and match it to the 700R4/4L60E low/reverse support to keep the same clutch clearance. To get the correct clutch clearance, you will have to change the steel thickness to get it correct. Low/reverse clutch clearance .030" - .060". Use the TH350C spring retainers in "all the clutch packs", much easier to assemble.
The output shaft has a bushing in it sometimes, remove and use the plastic insert (late TH350's) to get lube to the rear section of the unit. Use the Vega sunshell they are completely hollowed out, which makes them very light, and is excellent for drag racing, especially on the 60ft times. I have these for $35.00. I have never seen one break from high horsepower. Use the bronze case bushing, & teflon extension housing bushing, with the three lip Vamac seal. Make sure that the driveshaft yoke is in perfect condition and made smooth as possible (polished), where the bushing & seal rides. Always use solid U-joints, never with Zerx fittings.
Use the plastic washers instead of the bronze washers where possible. You can safely run tighter end clearance with these thrust washers. When using bronze or metal thrust washers, you will need to flat sand them in most cases, as they are not flat. If you have the planets and hubs with bearings, better yet. End clearance .015" - .020", or .004" for every bronze or metal thrust washer that is used. Add a pan magnet or two. For the filter, use the Sealed Power Dacron from the TH350C, this is an excellent filter. As for the valve body modifications, use the TransGo Performance Shift kit, they offer it in automatic & full manual.
Replace any plastic accumulator pistons with aluminum. Use cast iron sealing rings on the accumulator pistons, and teflon scarf cut sealing ring rings on the stator shaft. Do not block off the 2nd accumulator as it will help to prevent the sprag race from breaking. When using the TransGo Performance Shift kit, it offers the "dual feed" of the direct apply piston in high gear. Leave off the middle sealing ring on the stator shaft for the direct apply. DO NOT remove inner rubber sealing ring in the direct drum. This slows down the release of the clutches when making a 3-2 downshift. These modifications were what we started doing many years ago in 10 & 9 second vehicles, and were worth some in terms of a drop in ET, and a slight gain in mph, and they held up very well. Use a Dexron type fluid only. Amsoil is very good synthetic fluid. No B&M Trick Shift or Ford type "F" fluid. Use Lubrication Engineers Monolec 7500 for extreme duty use.
I have complete kits for these. DO NOT remove the waved steel on the intermediate clutches as this will break the intermediate race. The "so called" hardened race is actually made a little softer to "give" on the 1-2 shift. It was to hard from the factory, and that is why it would break occasionally.
thanks dana , prolly be starting on it this weekend.
alot of the parts that came out of the 350c were really good , the th350c was blown up , but only because the vlavebody casting broke and the accumulator piston actually poped out of the valve body , the th350 i have is perfect working order other then being stock and 6inch tail shaft
unfortunatly i already ordered and alto red clutch kit so ill have to piece together everything else instead of just buying a complete kit , the vega sunshell from u and shiftkit is deffinatly on the list though
ill print this out so i have it when we goto assemble the unit
dana any links to the carbon band ? all im finding is the kevlar bands
whish i would have waited and just bought the whole kit from u but i had already previously purchased the alto clutches and various othe rparts
If you plan to make good power and abuse the thing, it may be wise to go th400 lol i know you had a bad experience there but it is a strong trans when done right. We all have them around here on our 8 sec rides, some have glides
If you plan to make good power and abuse the thing, it may be wise to go th400 lol i know you had a bad experience there but it is a strong trans when done right. We all have them around here on our 8 sec rides, some have glides
im going all or nothing with this th350, clutches soft parts band etc are all here , got an 700r4 low/rev support on the way , hopping to pick up a manual vb and transbrake here shortly , along with a 3500 9.5 inch stall
i know u been keeping tabs on my build thread lol lots going on with the car over this winter
im going all or nothing with this th350, clutches soft parts band etc are all here , got an 700r4 low/rev support on the way , hopping to pick up a manual vb and transbrake here shortly , along with a 3500 9.5 inch stall
i know u been keeping tabs on my build thread lol lots going on with the car over this winter
Sounds like you need a manual vb/transbrake and a safety bellhousing. You know, I might know a guy
Sounds like you need a manual vb/transbrake and a safety bellhousing. You know, I might know a guy
-- Joe
haha im trying to gather funds, i got pretty heavilt involved with crypto currencies , trying to move some more of my assets to pick up some more of the stuff i need
Sounds like you need a manual vb/transbrake and a safety bellhousing. You know, I might know a guy
-- Joe
yeah aparently i will have a ultrabell , transbrake vb comming after xmas
anyways heres a picture of some of the stuff i got in already
red strip modulator ,alto red clutch sets , full paper and seal kit , sealing rings, alto red band ,filter and front and rear bushings + other misc stuff
still waiting on kolene steels plastic thruts washers , and 700r4 center support to show up , and need to order a vega sunshell , and lightwieght foward drum
yeah aparently i will have a ultrabell , transbrake vb comming after xmas
anyways heres a picture of some of the stuff i got in already
red strip modulator ,alto red clutch sets , full paper and seal kit , sealing rings, alto red band ,filter and front and rear bushings + other misc stuff
still waiting on kolene steels plastic thruts washers , and 700r4 center support to show up , and need to order a vega sunshell , and lightwieght foward drum
The trans I took apart had alto red clutches. Everything looked nice too. Must have only had a few passes on it. Guess I'll throw them out
You'll omit the 2nd band when doing the transbrake vb. All that band does is engine braking in second.
looks like i wont be needing the band with the transbrake , still need to lookup the install directions on that
but can u pm me a price over on that carbon band incase i do need to purchase it
Won't be using the 2nd gear band, no kickdown servo that gets plugged.
HP3215 – T-350 TRANSBRAKE VALVE BODY KIT
This valve body has been designed for competition applications only. It is not intended
for use on the street. Please read and follow these instructions carefully.
If you need any kind of technical assistance, please feel free to call us during regular
business hours. Follow these directions carefully! If you don’t understand something,
please call our technical assistance center. 95% of the problems related to this product
are due to installation mistakes.
The HP3215 Kit includes the following:
• T-350 Valve Body and Separator Plate
• Electric Solenoid
• Set of High Gear Clutch Return Springs (17)
• Special Brake Valve and Spring
• Servo Plug
• Two Separator Plate Gaskets
If you are installing this product into a racing transmission that is already finished, we
recommend that you use the services of an experienced transmission rebuilder in you
local area. If you are installing this product yourself, and you are not experienced with
working with the T-350 transmission, please get a repair manual such as Chilton to assist
you with the transmission assembly.
Step 1. Disassemble the transmission and file the case to a completely flat surface. No
low spots on the valve body side should be present.
Step 2. Disassemble the direct drum. Drill the bleed hole (as shown in figure one). Use
a .050 drill bit.
Step 3. Reassemble the direct drum using new lip seals on the piston. Discard the lip
seal from the drum. Set clutch clearance at .040 to .050. Install the 17 new return springs
supplied in the kit. Use five frictions.
Step 4. Install new clutches in low reverse clutch pack. You should have at least five
clutches in this pack. We recommend that you set the clutch clearances at .030 to .040.
Step 5. Discard intermediate kick down band and servo assembly.
Step 6. Reassemble transmission while retaining intermediate wave plate.
Step 7. Install band servo plug in bore (as shown in figure two). Use lock tight while
installing the plug.
Step 8. Place the brake valve spring onto the brake valve. Insert the valve into the
modulator bore. Make sure that the valve moves freely in the bore. Install the solenoid
into the case using a new o-ring. Reuse your modulator bracket to secure the solenoid on
the case.
Step 9. Phasing the valve: When the solenoid is applied the (A) passage should be open,
and the (B) passage should be blocked. When the solenoid is not applied the (A) passage
should be blocked and the (B) passage should be open. (Refer to figure two).
Step 10. Remove and discard the governor.
Step 11. Install the new separator plate, support plate, and valve body in that order. Do
not reinstall any of the check ***** with this kit. Finger tighten all the bolts, then torque
to 120 inch pounds.
Step 12. Install the filter and the pan.
Step 13. Once the transmission is installed, place the car on jack stands and check the
transbrake operation.
This transbrake employs a reverse shift pattern; P-R-N-1-2-3. The transbrake only works
in low gear. To engage reverse you must put the shifter in reverse and push the
transbrake button, or put the shifter in neutral and push the button.
Use the following suggestions while wiring the solenoid. Attach the black wire to a good
ground, such as the frame of the vehicle. The transmission is not a good ground. Attach
the red wire from the button to a 12-volt source. Use either 12 or 14 gage wire. Use a
20-amp fuse in line for safety reasons. Do not run the button off the wire for the line
lock. Do not use solderness connections.
Won't be using the 2nd gear band, no kickdown servo that gets plugged.
HP3215 – T-350 TRANSBRAKE VALVE BODY KIT
This valve body has been designed for competition applications only. It is not intended
for use on the street. Please read and follow these instructions carefully.
If you need any kind of technical assistance, please feel free to call us during regular
business hours. Follow these directions carefully! If you don’t understand something,
please call our technical assistance center. 95% of the problems related to this product
are due to installation mistakes.
The HP3215 Kit includes the following:
• T-350 Valve Body and Separator Plate
• Electric Solenoid
• Set of High Gear Clutch Return Springs (17)
• Special Brake Valve and Spring
• Servo Plug
• Two Separator Plate Gaskets
If you are installing this product into a racing transmission that is already finished, we
recommend that you use the services of an experienced transmission rebuilder in you
local area. If you are installing this product yourself, and you are not experienced with
working with the T-350 transmission, please get a repair manual such as Chilton to assist
you with the transmission assembly.
Step 1. Disassemble the transmission and file the case to a completely flat surface. No
low spots on the valve body side should be present.
Step 2. Disassemble the direct drum. Drill the bleed hole (as shown in figure one). Use
a .050 drill bit.
Step 3. Reassemble the direct drum using new lip seals on the piston. Discard the lip
seal from the drum. Set clutch clearance at .040 to .050. Install the 17 new return springs
supplied in the kit. Use five frictions.
Step 4. Install new clutches in low reverse clutch pack. You should have at least five
clutches in this pack. We recommend that you set the clutch clearances at .030 to .040.
Step 5. Discard intermediate kick down band and servo assembly.
Step 6. Reassemble transmission while retaining intermediate wave plate.
Step 7. Install band servo plug in bore (as shown in figure two). Use lock tight while
installing the plug.
Step 8. Place the brake valve spring onto the brake valve. Insert the valve into the
modulator bore. Make sure that the valve moves freely in the bore. Install the solenoid
into the case using a new o-ring. Reuse your modulator bracket to secure the solenoid on
the case.
Step 9. Phasing the valve: When the solenoid is applied the (A) passage should be open,
and the (B) passage should be blocked. When the solenoid is not applied the (A) passage
should be blocked and the (B) passage should be open. (Refer to figure two).
Step 10. Remove and discard the governor.
Step 11. Install the new separator plate, support plate, and valve body in that order. Do
not reinstall any of the check ***** with this kit. Finger tighten all the bolts, then torque
to 120 inch pounds.
Step 12. Install the filter and the pan.
Step 13. Once the transmission is installed, place the car on jack stands and check the
transbrake operation.
This transbrake employs a reverse shift pattern; P-R-N-1-2-3. The transbrake only works
in low gear. To engage reverse you must put the shifter in reverse and push the
transbrake button, or put the shifter in neutral and push the button.
Use the following suggestions while wiring the solenoid. Attach the black wire to a good
ground, such as the frame of the vehicle. The transmission is not a good ground. Attach
the red wire from the button to a 12-volt source. Use either 12 or 14 gage wire. Use a
20-amp fuse in line for safety reasons. Do not run the button off the wire for the line
lock. Do not use solderness connections.
-- Joe
thanks man, r the clutch return sprins anything special?
thanks man, r the clutch return sprins anything special?
Yes. They go with it when I sell it.
I asked the same question:
Hello Joe,
Those springs help the direct clutch pack to release as quickly as possible.
They offer higher tension than the stock springs. This improves the release
time of the transbrake.
Thank you,
Pete Nichols
Sales Manager / Tech Support
Hughes Performance
602-889-3621
800-274-7223, ext. 209 www.hughesperformance.com
bumping this back to the top since im working on the trans right now and ineed to find this later for some of the directions and tips.
thanks again anesthes finally getting this together
stripped down one of the other th350 cores last night and will be cleaning insopecting, picking and choosing parts and then assembling the unit today
10-20-2014, 09:26 PM
