patrickz1985tgc

How does it feel to drive worth a high stall torque converter? Some have said that its like stretching a rubber band. People have even told me that i would not be able to burn rubber at a dead stop. Too many people have told me different things. 85z28

Birdstheword

depends how high of a stall you have. something in the 2000-2500 is pretty streetable, when you get into the 3k range is when you have to rev up the motor a bit more to get it going

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

It depends on a lot of things, but yes you will be able to burn rubber from a dead stop and in fact burn more rubber than you ever did before.

If you get a loose off the shelf converter then you may have alittle lose of movement per rpm.. Same thing if you try to run a 3,000 stall with a 2.73 rear gear.. It's gonna rev higher before it starts to move good.

If you get a better brand tighter converter it will feel almost like stock at low and part throttle..

With a common brand converter if you are running a 3.23 to 3.73 gear the car will move forward at a few hundred RPM more than it does now. Like if you start moving at 800 rpm in gear now, it might not move untill 1,000 rpm with the higher stall converter.

I have a custom built 9.5" 3500 stall in mine and it feels almost stock driving around town. You wouldn't know it's a high stall converter if you never floored the throttle

patrickz1985tgc

What brand do you guys recommend for weekend/daily driver?

AlkyIROC

Converter stall needs to match the camshaft. As stated above, with a stock cam, a 2200-2500 works well. All converters slip. When below the stall speed, the converter will slip which causes heat. Any non stock converter needs an external trans cooler.

With torque converters, you really do get what you pay for. An inexpensive converter is inexpensive for a reason. There are many good brands. It really depends on how much you want to spend.

AutoRoc

iTrader: (1)

All "high stall" converters drive just fine. I ran a 5000 stall with a powerglide 2 speed trans. It drove just fine and a mild stab of throttle instantly got you into the powerband at 5000rpm.. with minimal throttle, you could get moving into traffic while never even revving past 2500rpm.

my newest footbrakes to 3000 and is probably close to 4000 when the boost hits. It drives really nice also. I have had good results with the Precision Industries Vigilante converters. My curent is a TCI streetfighter that was too tight so a local shop restalled it for $175.

I am a fan of having it stall/couple AT the torque peak. This is why LS1 cars run best with a Yank 4000....

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

PTC, Jakes performance, Yank.. Freakshow converters I have never used one but heard good things about them, FTI, Edge converters, ATI, roadrunner converters, midwest converters, coan.

I try to stay away from the cheaper off the shelf units like B&M, TCI, etc. You will get a much better converter and customer service from a place like PTC or any of the others I listed above.

The converter needs to be matched to your engine specs and car specs

patrickz1985tgc

Does it still have the same effects when you stomp the gas

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

When you stomp the throttle that's when the "stall speed" comes into play.

Say you have a 2800 stall.. You floor the throttle the RPM will shoot right up to 2600-3000 rpm, then bud from there.

With a stock converter, you floor throttle and rpm only jumps up to 1300-1500 then builds from there..

That's the whole idea of higher stall converters. To get you into the engine's power band faster with out any delay of having to build rpm up. You hit throttle it jumps to the stall RPM of converter

AlkyIROC

My race converter stalls at 6000 rpm on the transbrake. I only launch at 4500. When I shift around 7400 rpm, the rpms drop to around 6400 so the converter stays above the stall speed at WOT.

The engine idles around 1200 rpm and I can put it in gear and drive around the pits just off an idle.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

From what I've read, the stall of the converter should be 200-400 above the "powerband" of the cam. So if you have a 2200-6000 rpm cam, you should a 2400-2600 stall converter for the best performance.

IROCThe5.7L

Just make sure you buy a quality converter. I have a precision industries 3600 stall and it's great. I can easily accelerate with traffic while keeping it under 2500rpm. When you get heavy on the throttle, it will shoot you right up in your power band.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

A lot of good answers in here. With a stock converter, just cruising home from work, you're going to shift at about 1800 and drop down to 1500 after the shift. Repeat in the next gear......With an aftermarket torque converter with the same mundane driving, you're going to shift at about 2000-2200 and drop down to 1700-1900.........This would be with a 3000 stall.

With something like a 3200 stall, you're looking at around 2200-2400 before you shift to the next gear. Of course stabbing the throttle, the car will zoom up to 3200 and accelerate like crazy.

The amount of RPM rise varies depending on throttle input. At low speeds, most people don't even notice they have a converter in there. With heavy throttle it's absolutely obvious you have a converter. To demonstrate, watch both of these videos. Both have the same Circle D "5C" converter (4000-4200 stall). One video is mashing the throttle. The other is simply driving down the street.



Now those videos are with 4000+ RPM converters. I wouldn't want to run that much stall. Because I don't want to be at 3100 RPM (Mustang video) all the time while pressing the gas pedal. That's just too much slip for me.

With a 2800-3200 converter, the results will be much less. 4000 stall converters have soft almost unnoticeable gear changes. And they don't drop much at all after the shift. This is why you'll see cars with say 5000 RPM stall converters at the drag strip go down the track seemingly in one gear at a constant high RPM the entire way, even though the car is actually changing gears.

Personally, I don't see the point in buying a 2500 stall converter. It's not worth the cost to purchase as well as the labor charge to install it (or the time yourself to swap it out). I would aim at least for a 2800 with 3000 to 3200 being fine. Your 3.73 axle ratio means that it will take less gas pedal to get going than a 3.23 or 2.73 axle car. A 2.73 with a stall is sort of like pulling a boat with a manual transmission. It would take more RPM's and you'd have to slip the clutch more than if you weren't towing anything. All of this means you can get away with more stall when you buy one.

I also find that torque converters are like window tint. Everybody who buys window tint for the first time is worried that it will be too dark. So they go with a light to medium tint. 2 days later they wish they'd gone darker because it's not that bad at all. Torque converters are the same way. You'll find WAY more people who wish they'd gone one higher level than the one they purchased. I don't think I've ever heard of anybody with a 3000 stall who wishes they'd gone for less.

Torque converters are like turbos in reverse. You get massive power down low that slowly peters off to stock at redline. See this dyno of a Vigilante 2800 http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...age011026.html

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

I will add (and everybody agrees with this), SPEND THE MONEY ON A GOOD CONVERTER if you choose to buy one. A cheap converter will drive terribly and be the bane of your existence. They will break on you and take out the transmission with it. Leaving you with $1500-2000 down the drain. Not worth the $400 "savings" you get by buying a cheaper converter.

An expensive but good converter will drive wonderfully, last a long time, and not grenade on you. Here are some pictures comparing a junk converter (TCI) with good converters (Vigilante and Circle D)

http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-...education.html