86 IROC 700R4 Stall Converter
#1
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86 IROC 700R4 Stall Converter
Hey guys, I have a few questions I'd like to pick your brains about. I have an 86 IROC, that has a carburated 350 and a 700R4 transmission in it now and it runs fine. Come next year though, I'm looking at swapping in a 430HP 383 crate engine. The cam specs of the engine I'm going to install are .528 Intake .536 Exhaust, 230 Intake / 240 Exhaust duration @ .050 - 112 degree lobe separation; they are suggesting a 2000-2400 stall.
I'm trying to get all the parts lined out on paper and bought before I leap for the engine next year and I'm wondering what converter I need to run and not cook the tranny? Does it need to be a lock out converter and who makes the most dependable converter? I only want to do the job one time and be done with it. I know I'll need to install an external cooler with the stall converter, but I just want to make sure I buy a good quality converter that's going to be streetable and be inside the rpm envelope of 2000-2500.
P.S. I should add that I'm building this for a street rod that will see more cruise ins than any real drag racing.
I'm trying to get all the parts lined out on paper and bought before I leap for the engine next year and I'm wondering what converter I need to run and not cook the tranny? Does it need to be a lock out converter and who makes the most dependable converter? I only want to do the job one time and be done with it. I know I'll need to install an external cooler with the stall converter, but I just want to make sure I buy a good quality converter that's going to be streetable and be inside the rpm envelope of 2000-2500.
P.S. I should add that I'm building this for a street rod that will see more cruise ins than any real drag racing.
Last edited by MSgt Luttrell; 04-16-2015 at 05:52 AM.
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Car: '86 Camaro, '94 Camaro, 3 others
Engine: LG4 ->L29, L32->LR4, L36, LG4, L31
Transmission: 700R-4, T5WC, 4L80E, SM465, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23, WTB/WTT 2.93
Re: 86 IROC 700R4 Stall Converter
I think that's a bit much cam for a 2000-stall, even in a 383. But your axle ratio, which you didn't list, will affect the choice. If you define quality by cost and warranty, then consider brands like Yank and Circle-D. Not that TCI or B&M are bad, they're not. But I'd sooner believe the recommendations of Circle D or Yank than a local trans shop.
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Re: 86 IROC 700R4 Stall Converter
I think that's a bit much cam for a 2000-stall, even in a 383. But your axle ratio, which you didn't list, will affect the choice. If you define quality by cost and warranty, then consider brands like Yank and Circle-D. Not that TCI or B&M are bad, they're not. But I'd sooner believe the recommendations of Circle D or Yank than a local trans shop.
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Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: SuperRam 350
Transmission: Pro Built S/S TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: 86 IROC 700R4 Stall Converter
Even a 1C (3000-3200) would work well in terms of keeping it barely even noticeable. This is their stock F-body daily driver converter recommendation.
Last edited by Reid Fleming; 05-02-2015 at 02:30 PM.
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Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: SuperRam 350
Transmission: Pro Built S/S TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: 86 IROC 700R4 Stall Converter
In a hotter climate, you'll do better with an external only cooler (not through the radiator).
Why bother running the warm transmission oil through the hot radiator when you're sitting in traffic during the summer? Running 170° transmission fluid through a radiator that is at 220° isn't going to do much but heat up the transmission.
Leaving a small gap between the external cooler and the condenser also helps. No point using each other as heat sinks. All that does is heat up the cooler and warm up your A/C.
I also like the safety aspect of if your radiator ever gets a leak in the transmission cooler tubing, that your transmission won't get antifreeze running through it (if you run the external only)
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